Non-ringing artifacts - what is it?
I'm getting these weird vertical lines in my prints, both in X and Y. After doing a klipper ringing tower test, I can conclude that they have the same frequency as the machine's ringing effect, but they're still there even after applying resonance compensation.
The first pic attached has resonance compensation turned off, and the second has resonance compensation (MZV) turned on. Ringing gone, vertical lines still there, both in X and Y...
Does anyone have any idea?...
Wavy Lines on X Axis
Hi guys, still fighting this dang printer. Finally getting to print some things and I’m running into issues with wavy lines on my X axis, particularly after a corner. See attached photos. I’ve checked my belt resonances and set my acceleration to the recommended amount but still have this issue. This is after all calibration flow, PA, temp, fans, etc. I’m also getting some slight under extrusion. Even after calibration flow and PA. HELP!
Solution:
Did you add the correct number? I’m away from my printer but I’m thinking mine was like 47.8 or something similar. I’m also setup for Idex.
Help with first layer - vcore 4 hybrid 500 new build
I cannot get my frist layer no matter what I try. I think the nozzle is to close to the bed. Did the beacon calibrate about 20 times. Am I missing something?
How can I reduce effects on the corners
I’m convinced this is something related to speed because this is a non issue when I am running low velocity and low acceleration but at higher velocities and acceleration it creeps up
ABS bad layer stacking and overhangs
I’m having some issues with ABS and not sure where to begin. The corners looks aweful but overhangs above look okay, probably the corners warped a little bit during print but don’t think that’s the whole truth.
I’m also not very happy with how the layers are stacking , if you zoom the pictures you can see the layers is not consistent. You can see some ”ghosting”. I’ve shapers set correctly and pretty clean graphs
I’m thinking if it could be extrusion temp? ...
Line in the middle of every print?
I'm sure i saw a post regarding this problem in the past.... I'm using cura as my slicer. Every print i do I have a distinct line kind of in the middle of the print. It is especially evident when making lithopanes. Does anyone know if there's a setting in cura that needs changing ? If I can figure out how to attach a pic I will
Generally great print quality except this curve?
I redone my belts with the GATS system tensioning my belts equally across all 4 of them to approximately 4kg, and made the belts equal size. The belt tension feel's lower than I'd of done it to manually. Whilst doing this I re-squared my gantry too which has improved my VAOC results. Overall my machine moves as smooth as it ever has but..
I'm getting this bumpy, wavy wall on what should be a smooth curve though?
Any help greatly appreciated...
Weird blobs and gaps in print?
I’m using a new roll of petg filament to print a large 990g, 12 hour print on my vcore 4 idex and it’s having an issue printing with these bits sticking out on the walls. There is no seem anywhere on that face and it does it all around the print. I tried to reprint with slightly lower temp, 250c and it’s still basically the same. I’ve done many smaller prints without this issue? My guess is the stock spool holder has to much drag and when it’s being pulled it skips a bit? But I guess that wouldn...
Solution:
i get artifacts like that if the spool isn't dry. Try drying it out and print again
Core v4 raspberry pi USB shorted out
I'm in need of a support person to figure out what I have done wrong with the build on this core V4 build. Everything was fine to begin with on the first power on everything was lighting up correctly but the raspberry pi just kept blinking red and wouldn't blink green or hold the green LED. I unplugged the printer and pulled the SD card and reimagined it and tried again but this time the red light flicked red once and turned off it then started emitting smoke from the usb that the big tree tech...
IDEX offset of T1 on the far side from VAOC
My issue is the prints coming out of my T1 is a kind of rotated regarding the prints from T0. Close to VAOC they're perfectly fine, but on the other side of the bed there is half a millimeter offset. What I did:
- Checked the rear plates with the motors (unscrewed and screwed again, to be sure they're flush to the profile).
- Adjusted the anchoring of the belts to the heads in order to make the front tensioners extend the same amount. It should make the length of both belts pretty much equal.
- Shaper graphs are good. Very low vibration percentage (under 2 for all). Y belt above 5700 MZV, X belts over 7500.
- The frame is quite well assembled. I've measured all diagonals and they have way less then 1 mm difference. ...
Make box align
Trying to get the two parts of the lid to align. But seems I am printing something wrong. In both sides the parts that are trying to align are the upper part of the print.
Printer in ASA, so my guess is some kind of shrinkage issue?...
Sharp corners on small part being rounded
Part on left is from Ender 6 with default settings (80mm/s). Part on right is from VCore 400mm RatRig slowed down to 40mm/s. I've usually been printing at 250mm/s with the RatRig but I slowed it way way down trying to get rid of the rounding to no avail. I did the automatic input shaper calibration a while ago, but I will do it again if that would help. I believe the belts are the correct tightness, but I am open to opinions there as well. I've also attached an image of the settings from Cura (Ender 6) and Prusa (RatRig).
Any suggestions would be great. Thanks!...
Zits on travel moves (I think)
noticed that my ASA print has these zits on the outer walls where I think travel moves occur, since they're all pretty random aswell. There's no extra extrusion, more like a pinhole. I have "avoid crossing walls" enabled in my OrcaSlicer, but it seems to still cross them anyway if I look at it this way. Retraction settings included
Layer pattern
Hey guys,
Does anyone of you know where this weird pattern comes from and how to avoid it?...
ESUN ePAHT-CF bridging issues
I'm able to print just fine but bridging is a pain with eSUN ePAHT-CF.
Even overhangs are fine without any fan at all but this bridge in the photo below was printed with 25% fan, it didn't help much at all.
I'm using a 0.5 TC nozzle, filament is properly dried for days @70°C and then three hours @90°C right before printing.
I tried 30mm/s bridging speed, 60mm/s bridging speed (the filament profile is limited to 10mm³ anyway) but nothing helps.
Even though it's just a single 5015 fan for cooling, I don't feel comfortable ramping it up to 50% for a PA-CF filament, although that is what I'm going to do now....
