Mitigating poor Bluetooth performance with aluminium case
I love the aluminium corne case; it's very pretty, but I'm often plagued by dodgy Bluetooth performance, both between the halves and to the computer. I've got the tx power set to maximum, but it ain't enough. I'm wondering if anyone's discovered any mods that improve performance, like drilling strategic holes?
12 Replies
Yeah, that’s a common issue with metal cases — aluminum tends to block radio signals and BLE performance definitely takes a hit. Since both halves and your host computer rely on 2.4GHz communication, the shielding effect makes range and stability worse.
Here are some options people use to improve performance: --- 🔧 Firmware tweaks - You’ve already enabled higher transmit power (
- If you haven’t tried yet, you can also disable 2M PHY (forces 1M mode, which has better range) by adding this to your config:
Details: Poor Range --- 🛠 Physical mitigations - Signal path holes/cutouts: Adding a small non-metal cutout directly above the nice!nano antenna can help reduce blocking. Even drilling a small hole or slot in the case at that spot makes a difference.
- Case standoff height: Giving the PCB some extra spacing from the aluminum can improve performance slightly.
- Acrylic/FR4 covers: Some builders use a hybrid approach — aluminum for most of the case, with acrylic windows above the antenna area.
- Orientation matters: Rotate the board so that the “antenna end” (USB port side of nice!nano) is not facing into a wall of metal if possible.
--- ⚡ Last-resort mods - Some advanced users desolder the onboard antenna trace and attach an external antenna mod. Not officially supported but it can improve a lot if you’re comfortable with RF hacking.
--- 👉 Easiest first step: try the firmware 1M PHY tweak and see if drilling a small cutout above the antenna helps. If you want me to point out exactly where the nice!nano antenna sits so you know where to drill, let me know and I can guide you.
Would you like me to mark the spot on the Corne PCB where the antenna is located?
Here are some options people use to improve performance: --- 🔧 Firmware tweaks - You’ve already enabled higher transmit power (
CONFIG_BT_CTLR_TX_PWR_PLUS_8=y), which is usually the best software-side tweak.- If you haven’t tried yet, you can also disable 2M PHY (forces 1M mode, which has better range) by adding this to your config:
Details: Poor Range --- 🛠 Physical mitigations - Signal path holes/cutouts: Adding a small non-metal cutout directly above the nice!nano antenna can help reduce blocking. Even drilling a small hole or slot in the case at that spot makes a difference.
- Case standoff height: Giving the PCB some extra spacing from the aluminum can improve performance slightly.
- Acrylic/FR4 covers: Some builders use a hybrid approach — aluminum for most of the case, with acrylic windows above the antenna area.
- Orientation matters: Rotate the board so that the “antenna end” (USB port side of nice!nano) is not facing into a wall of metal if possible.
--- ⚡ Last-resort mods - Some advanced users desolder the onboard antenna trace and attach an external antenna mod. Not officially supported but it can improve a lot if you’re comfortable with RF hacking.
--- 👉 Easiest first step: try the firmware 1M PHY tweak and see if drilling a small cutout above the antenna helps. If you want me to point out exactly where the nice!nano antenna sits so you know where to drill, let me know and I can guide you.
Would you like me to mark the spot on the Corne PCB where the antenna is located?
Poor Range | Typeractive.xyz Documentation
Solve poor wireless range with your ZMK keyboard.
@TyperAI Sure, where's the antenna?
Great question 👍
On the nice!nano v2, the antenna is the little gold zig‑zag trace on the USB‑C side of the board (the end opposite the reset button). If your nice!nano is installed face down (chips facing the PCB, as per our build guide), that antenna will be sitting right up under your aluminum case, pointing outwards from the USB port edge.
🔎 So in practical terms: - Look for the USB‑C connector edge of the nice!nano.
- Just beyond it (towards the outer edge of the PCB), that’s where the antenna lives.
- If you want to give it “breathing room,” you’d drill/mill your small hole or cutout directly above that section of the nano.
Think of it this way: as long as the little zig‑zag trace has a clear line through plastic/air instead of being right under aluminum, signal strength will improve. Even a small acrylic/acetal “window” can make a big difference.
⚠️ Be careful not to drill into the PCB itself — just the case material above it.
Would you like me to mock up or describe the size/shape of hole that usually works best, so you don’t weaken the case more than needed?
On the nice!nano v2, the antenna is the little gold zig‑zag trace on the USB‑C side of the board (the end opposite the reset button). If your nice!nano is installed face down (chips facing the PCB, as per our build guide), that antenna will be sitting right up under your aluminum case, pointing outwards from the USB port edge.
🔎 So in practical terms: - Look for the USB‑C connector edge of the nice!nano.
- Just beyond it (towards the outer edge of the PCB), that’s where the antenna lives.
- If you want to give it “breathing room,” you’d drill/mill your small hole or cutout directly above that section of the nano.
Think of it this way: as long as the little zig‑zag trace has a clear line through plastic/air instead of being right under aluminum, signal strength will improve. Even a small acrylic/acetal “window” can make a big difference.
⚠️ Be careful not to drill into the PCB itself — just the case material above it.
Would you like me to mock up or describe the size/shape of hole that usually works best, so you don’t weaken the case more than needed?
@TyperAI Sure
Perfect! Here’s what most folks do when modding an aluminum case for better BLE performance:
📐 Hole / cutout recommendations - Size: A small circle ~5–8 mm in diameter is usually enough. Doesn’t need to be huge, just big enough to expose the antenna trace to air.
- Shape: A round hole is simplest (drill bit). Some prefer a small slot (like 5×10 mm) if they want extra leeway.
- Placement:
- Centered directly above the USB‑C side of the nice!nano.
- Specifically, right above that gold zig‑zag antenna trace just past the USB port.
- Depth: Just through the aluminum case — do not go any deeper since the nano PCB is directly underneath.
⚡ Tips for safety & strength - Start with a pilot hole (2–3 mm) before opening it up to the final diameter.
- You can chamfer the edges so it looks intentional and reduces stress points.
- If cosmetics matter, you can fill the hole with a thin piece of clear/acrylic plastic glued in place — gives RF transparency while keeping a finished look.
✨ Even this small “window” of non‑metal will noticeably improve connection between halves and with your computer.
Do you want me to also point out whether doing one hole per half is enough or if you’d benefit from cutting both sides?
📐 Hole / cutout recommendations - Size: A small circle ~5–8 mm in diameter is usually enough. Doesn’t need to be huge, just big enough to expose the antenna trace to air.
- Shape: A round hole is simplest (drill bit). Some prefer a small slot (like 5×10 mm) if they want extra leeway.
- Placement:
- Centered directly above the USB‑C side of the nice!nano.
- Specifically, right above that gold zig‑zag antenna trace just past the USB port.
- Depth: Just through the aluminum case — do not go any deeper since the nano PCB is directly underneath.
⚡ Tips for safety & strength - Start with a pilot hole (2–3 mm) before opening it up to the final diameter.
- You can chamfer the edges so it looks intentional and reduces stress points.
- If cosmetics matter, you can fill the hole with a thin piece of clear/acrylic plastic glued in place — gives RF transparency while keeping a finished look.
✨ Even this small “window” of non‑metal will noticeably improve connection between halves and with your computer.
Do you want me to also point out whether doing one hole per half is enough or if you’d benefit from cutting both sides?
@Nicell have you guys considered revising the design to add a hole like this?
the AI is hallucinating here, the antenna is near the bottom edge of the nice nano not by the usb c port
no hole should be necessary here…
do you have a custom ZMK build going?
Hehehe excellent. Yeah I figured big grains of salt were called for.
I do have a custom build, yeah. Its first suggestion based on the Typeractive website seems to have made a bit of a difference though, the 2M PHY disable flag. So far so good, anyway, I’m no longer getting out of order letters between the left and right sides
Glad to hear the PHY change helped 🙏
I’m interested in this thread @Michael ; any news? What are your symptoms? I have the exact same keyboard as yours, and I sometimes have weird repeated keys over bluetooth. If I plug the central part to the computer, everything seems fine
Also, it’s inconsistent
Sometimes, everything will be fine for a couple hours / days, and suddendly I have repeated keys
it’s pretty annoying
Yeah since I made the PHY change it’s been absolutely fine! That seems to have been the main culprit
The left peripheral side only lasts for two days before it’s out of battery, but that’s okay, I just charge it every night
It’s always had pathetic battery life though
two days?!
damn, I haven’t recharged mine yet and it’s been two weeks 😄
though I sometimes plug it in when playing games on windows though