Bottom row in the right hand side on a lili58 stopped working
As the title says, the bottom row on a lily58 stopped working out of the blue, this was a pre-built board, I just added the switches and keycaps.
I've tested the swtiches and they are good, I tried resetting and applying the firmware.
the issue started happening on it's own, meaning that is was working fine and out of the blue stopped working....
Can't add more layers using ZMK (corne 6 col)
It might be that i don't understand the layer concept fully, but i've tried several times changing in the keymap file manually as with https://nickcoutsos.github.io/keymap-editor/.
If i try to add a new layer (so that the total is 4 with the default layer), the last one won't work. If i change the ordering it will work.
Is this some kind of limitation of the Corne 6 col? Or can i only setup 2 layer buttons?
...
Whole bottom row on left side stopped working after plugging it in to charge.
Like the title said, the whole bottom row on my left corne stopped working after pluggin it in the charge. I use a charger that reads out output and it never went above 0.5W... Is this some sort of known issue or something? I have turned it up, reflashed firmware, press the reset button once and then twice, and let the battery drain to 0 and still nothing. Is there some sort of hidden setting that I am unaware off that I could've pressed that just turns of the whole bottom row (thumb buttons work)? The keyboard is 3 weeks old and this was the 3rd time I tried charging it...
No Solder options across the board.
Here is an example o what happens when I press the d key:
asdasdG~ASDG~ASDDFG~AS...Column isn't working - low voltage
I built a chocofly v3 with a nice!nano v2 and it was working, with all the keys functioning. Then the right most column of the matrix stopped working (so physically, the two rightmost columns of keys).
The pin for that column reads 2.3v over GND while the other columns read 3.3v.
I've tried a few things:
I poked around with a multimeter to try to verify continuity, diode directions, etc....
Extremely unstable connection (corne 6 col)
My keyboard cannot hold a connection for more than a few seconds before dropping inputs, lagging, smearing letters and disconnecting all together. This issue comes and goes over the course of minutes, days, and hours. There is no observable pattern, and I've just retouched all the solder joints on the left side (the right side has no problem communicating with the left side, only from the left to my computer). This happens across multiple devices and at any range, with and without other BT disturbances nearby.
My firmware: https://github.com/CaptainNarthex/Agrion...
Production files for Wireless Choc Corne PCB
Where can I find the gerber files for the Corne Wireless PCB to be used with the new Aluminium case?
I have a bunch of components lying around so I want to order some PCBs and sorder things myself....
What can cause they Corne to act sluggish after a long session of using?
I have the corne (6col) and after a long sesion of use it become sluggish and the key register with delay. If I switch to my wired keyboard, alreay connected there is no problem but Corne is sluggish and slow in registering the kye presses. I am using the default firmware from typeractive website.
right no-solder header too loose
when flipped upside down the right portion’s microcontroller just pops out then when right side up pops right back in, i thought the battery was pushing it off but no
how to reconnect both of my typeractive corne's?
Both are currently powered on. But only the left side is connecting to Bluetooth. I recently swapped out the nice nano on the left. How do I reset to reconnect them both together?
Converting PCBs and FR4 plates GLB files to STL/Step
Hi everyone, I want to convert the GLB files downloaded from the Typeractive wireless corne builder to STL or - even better - STEP files to be used in Fusion 360 to design a 3D custom printed case.
I tried using Blender and exporting the objects to STL. However, when importing into Fusion360, the scale is off (shows the PCB thickness as 0.14mm). Also, using mesh/STLs within Fusion360 is not the best experience. I followed several tutorials and directions from ChatGPT to convert this STL into a solid in F360, but no matter what I try, F360 becomes unresponsive when trying to Convert the Mesh to a solid. Also, the imported mesh (STL) in Fusion360 shows several warnings (mesh not closed, mesh not oriented, mesh doesn't have a positve volume), which leads me to think it's a problem with the expored file in blender.
Any help will be greatly appreciated....
can a nice!view from a different source be used with the no-solder headers
If I have a nice!view that I got from a different shop, if I buy typeractive no-solder headers for my corne, will they work? And if I have a wireless corne already with no-solder, and if I want to add the nice!view, is the only thing I need the no-solder nice!view headers?
Can a no-solder later be soldered?
If I buy a no-solder corne with no-solder nice!views, later, is there a way for me to solder it or easily switch to a solderable one?
can I solder a nice!view to a no-solder kit
A few months back I bought a corne kit (low-profile, 6 col), but at the time I didn't get the nice!view displays
Now, I'm considering buying the nice!view displays, but I heard that its better to solder it, rather than no-solder, especially for the displays.
If I buy the no-solder option, is it still solderable in the future. Like initially I would be able to connect it with the no-solder headers, but later when I have more time, I would go back and solder it for a better, more stable connection. ...
Bluetooth pairing issue
I'm new to corne and just built my first kayboard. Was wondering the pairing button combination to use bluetooth as wired connection is working?
Can I use any different pair of pcbs?
I had ordered two spare corne choc PCBs. Do I have to use the pair together, or can I just rebuild the new left PCB and keep my working right PCB? Thanks in advance.
Screws too short to mount board into case?
Just assembled my Lily58 board today and as I was doing the install into the case I found that the stands offs and screws I received were too short to reach each other once everything was stacked into the case.
Have I done something obviously wrong here or are they too short?...
Have I done something obviously wrong here or are they too short?...
Bluetooth won't connect on Windows 11.
I've got everything set up correctly and have tried clearing the bluetooth profiles more times than I can count. I've successfully connected to 2 android phones and an Apple phone but can't get my board to bluetooth to my windows pc.