Octopus 1.1 firworks

I will say the new RatOS is much easier to fallow on settup. But i clearly still have an electrical problem somewhere.
21 Replies
blacksmithforlife
Hard to tell from the video how you have things hooked up
fair-rose
fair-rose16mo ago
I was fallowing this page. https://os.ratrig.com/docs/installation and per its instructions I had removed all wires except the power. I would have flashed it except for the flames and smoke. I will draw up the wiring diagram today and post it so you can see it.
Installing RatOS | RatOS
Raspberry Pi Installation
fair-rose
fair-rose16mo ago
With the instructions from above when I was preparing to flash it I removed all connections except power as can be seen here. I have double checked all my positive and negatives and everything is in the right place.
No description
audiorazor
audiorazor16mo ago
Looks like you have double jumpers on one of your connections
audiorazor
audiorazor16mo ago
One or more
optimistic-gold
optimistic-gold16mo ago
also set to 12v when the guide says 24v for the jumpers. Although those don't necessarily matter for this issue if they're unused. Just a heads up
optimistic-gold
optimistic-gold16mo ago
No description
fair-rose
fair-rose16mo ago
So when I get the next one do I even need to hook up any of the power to flash it? Can I just power it by USB. I seam to recall someone doing it that way once. Just like powering a rasberry pi.
KenadyDwag44
KenadyDwag4416mo ago
You can power it from usb and flash it. The usb cable will supply enough 5V to the board to power the MCU
fair-rose
fair-rose16mo ago
Soemone on FB said the same thing. I hope it is that simple. I really do not want to fry another one. Confusing thing is though that I had used the configuration with my last board and it did not cause flames and smoke like this.
audiorazor
audiorazor16mo ago
Yea I’m not saying that caused it but just wanted to point it out
Mietzekatzi
Mietzekatzi16mo ago
By setting both jumpers, you have shorted 12V to 5V. The 12V regulator can supply 8A, which it apparently first did to U11, which is rated for 7V
No description
No description
Mietzekatzi
Mietzekatzi16mo ago
And something else in the top right region, which I can't identify, but at this point, you were roasting all the 5V components with 12V
Grimstod
Grimstod16mo ago
Ill post some close ups so you can see each part. Thank you for the feedback.
ptegler
ptegler16mo ago
yep...looks like you shorted your 24V supply right to your 12V supply via that fan power selector connector 24 is closest to fan socket, then 12 in the middle +5 furthest from socket 12 and 24 are shorted in that vid
Grimstod
Grimstod16mo ago
Here are some close up images. I removed the one jumper and plugged it back in. No smoke or flames this time.
Grimstod
Grimstod16mo ago
No description
No description
No description
No description
Grimstod
Grimstod16mo ago
As you can see here no flames this time. The board is bad though. I have another one on order.
No description
blacksmithforlife
Don't double crimp the connections like you have there, that could also be a future issue
ptegler
ptegler16mo ago
...and why not shrink those crimps? they melt and literally glue the wire in. The insulation that gets smashed while crimping will 'heal' a bit as well. but the wire will get a lot of built in strain relief rather than the wire right at the crimp point being the strain relief. (at least those you have at the power supply terminal strip) Those blue plastics crimps suck,