SKR 3 EZ Not Detected During Control Board Flashing.

I was able to flash my original SKR 3 EZ no problem and been printing for a few days / working out the kinks. Well today, I noticed that the DC Fan Module arced and fried itself. I didn't want to risk damaging any other components, so I decided to replace the mainboard with another SKR 3 EZ. I tried using http://ratos.local/configure?step=1, followed everything as outlined, but I can't get the SKR 3 EZ to be detected. I think I got the first one to detect by holding boot, pressed and released reset, then let go of boot or something of that nature but even that won't get the board to be recognized. When I pulled the SD card out of the mainboard, it reads firmware.cur which seems like it was accepted, however when I load into ratos.local it's saying that it can't connect to the mcu. The mainboard is getting powered by the raspberry pi 4b that's plugged directly into the wall outlet w/ the included usb cable from the board and the jumper is in place to enable usb power.
163 Replies
R34Pr
R34Pr2y ago
This is dmesg -w from the Frequently Asked Questions but I have zero idea what any of it means.
blacksmithforlife
Product: DFU in FS Mode looks like it is still in DFU mode
R34Pr
R34Pr2y ago
Would a power cycle fix it? I thought it’d get recognized in the configurator by being in DFU mode
blacksmithforlife
I would check the manual. However also looking at New USB device found, idVendor=0483, idProduct=df11 that doesn't look right for a SKR 3 EZ. That matches other boards. @miklschmidt did BTT change the product id?
R34Pr
R34Pr2y ago
Could it possibly be my EBB42? I thought I unplugged it before running it but maybe I didn’t. I guess I don’t understand what mode the board needs to be in to get recognized in the configurator or does it get recognized after the firmware flashes @blacksmithforlife
miklschmidt
miklschmidt2y ago
I think I got the first one to detect by holding boot, pressed and released reset, then let go of boot or something of that nature but even that won't get the board to be recognized.
That will put it in dfu mode for flashing. Which isn't implemented on the SKR 3 EZ yet, so it won't do anything for you.
did BTT change the product id?
Doesn't matter, the vendor/product id is set by klipper.
blacksmithforlife
ok, so most likely he installed the wrong firmware?
miklschmidt
miklschmidt2y ago
I guess I don’t understand what mode the board needs to be in to get recognized in the configurator or does it get recognized after the firmware flashes
"klipper mode".. It just needs to boot klipper (the firmware you flashed), nothing special, no shenanigans. No that vendor/productID is the DFU mode id I don't see it get detected at all outside dfu mode @_r34pr did you try compiling the firmware again and flashing again? It's possible that the bootloader is fucked I've seen quite a few btt boards lately with a broken bootloader.
R34Pr
R34Pr2y ago
I tried to do it a few times however I kept holding the boot button bc I thought that’s how it worked the first time. I’ll recompile and flash it without holding the boot button. I still have my original board that I can try to reflash too
miklschmidt
miklschmidt2y ago
I tried to do it a few times however I kept holding the boot button bc I thought that’s how it worked the first time.
😬 Don't fiddle with the boot button. Just do exactly what it says on screen 😄
R34Pr
R34Pr2y ago
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R34Pr
R34Pr2y ago
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R34Pr
R34Pr2y ago
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R34Pr
R34Pr2y ago
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R34Pr
R34Pr2y ago
Compiled Firmware. Flashing on a 32Gb microsd card formated fat32 @ 8kb
R34Pr
R34Pr2y ago
Safely ejecting and plugging directly into the replacement BTT SKR 3 EZ.
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R34Pr
R34Pr2y ago
Is it recommended to have the board powered by the psu or via the pi or it doesn't matter ? @miklschmidt @blacksmithforlife
miklschmidt
miklschmidt2y ago
PSU is the safe bet, but should work via USB power too as long as you don't do both.
R34Pr
R34Pr2y ago
I had it set with the jumper and usb from pi last but I’ll pull the jumper and use the PSU. How long will it take for the configurator to detect the board?
miklschmidt
miklschmidt2y ago
It's instant (when you click the button)
R34Pr
R34Pr2y ago
😦 it’s not being recognized
R34Pr
R34Pr2y ago
Excuse the hot mess of wires
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miklschmidt
miklschmidt2y ago
It's probably the bootloader. Lemme check if it's publically available
R34Pr
R34Pr2y ago
I can also see if I can find a smaller micro sd card than 32GB. I’m going to pull the sd card and see if it reads firmware.cur , double check if it’s still in dfu mode. I can also try flashing my original board too.
miklschmidt
miklschmidt2y ago
Can't find it. I can add support for DFU mode, maybe that'll work.
I can also see if I can find a smaller micro sd card than 32GB.
That does help sometimes
R34Pr
R34Pr2y ago
I'll look for one. In the meantime, the firmware does read "FIRMWARE.CUR" I'm going to try flashing the original EZ to see if I can get that one to get recognized.
R34Pr
R34Pr2y ago
Bootloader must be screwed on the new replacement board. My original read just fine by being powered by the Pi w/ jumper.
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miklschmidt
miklschmidt2y ago
If you update RatOS through the mainsail machine tab you can now flash it via manual DFU. Try that. (it adds another option to the flashing screen)
R34Pr
R34Pr2y ago
Giving that a go right now! Also, is it fine to have both the board and ebb 42 plugged in at the same time when doing this? I have it unplugged atm.
miklschmidt
miklschmidt2y ago
yes should be fine
R34Pr
R34Pr2y ago
updated ratos, attempting to flash via dfu now.
R34Pr
R34Pr2y ago
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miklschmidt
miklschmidt2y ago
did it work?
R34Pr
R34Pr2y ago
It flashes but I am unable to hit next to move onto the toolboard section @miklschmidt
miklschmidt
miklschmidt2y ago
So it still doesn't get detected?
R34Pr
R34Pr2y ago
after it flashes it kicks it out of DFU mode
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R34Pr
R34Pr2y ago
but then I can't move forward I will try and refresh correct, yes. it doesn't seem to get detected.
miklschmidt
miklschmidt2y ago
That board is borked I would try and reach out to BTT I'm 99% sure it can be fixed via reflashing the bootloader
R34Pr
R34Pr2y ago
that's super unfortunate but I will reach out to them and see what they say. Should I just ask if they can provide the bootloader file --if that's even a thing (still a noob). my original skr 3 ez flashed. There's nothing visually that looks bad on the board... I just wanted to be on the extra safe side and replace it just in case.
I'm running the 2209 EZ drivers for (x, y, z, z1, z2) and I'm getting a handful of undervolting X + Y issues that are very inconsistent. It looks like the EZ drivers can do 1.3A, do you think the default 1.1A is too low causing the issue? I double checked the wiring and all the pins seem fine visually (I only crimped the mainboard side and left the motor side as they came from the factory -did visually inspect that side though and the crimps are solid). BTW THANK YOU FOR YOUR HELP!!!
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R34Pr
R34Pr2y ago
i should say that i was even before the dc module issue
miklschmidt
miklschmidt2y ago
Should I just ask if they can provide the bootloader file --if that's even a thing (still a noob).
Yes, or explain the problem (it won't boot klipper after succesfully flashing), maybe they know something i don't.
I'm running the 2209 EZ drivers for (x, y, z, z1, z2) and I'm getting a handful of undervolting X + Y issues that are very inconsistent.
Undervolting? Can you provide a klipper.log for this? Never seen that before.
It looks like the EZ drivers can do 1.3A
That is uncooled. Add a fan and they'll do 2A.
do you think the default 1.1A is too low causing the issue?
No. That is current (ampere).
R34Pr
R34Pr2y ago
I don't think I saved the logs, and in an attempt to solve the issue late last night i ended up reflashing ratos on the pi so i wiped the history. I only have the error screenshot saved. I will double check that i didnt save them though but can also link the log if the issue repeats itself. I figured id try to spitball the idea and look for any differences in the config file vs specs.
R34Pr
R34Pr2y ago
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R34Pr
R34Pr2y ago
I won the SKR 3 EZ from the RatRig giveaway awhile back and figured Id try to make it work since I wasn
miklschmidt
miklschmidt2y ago
This is bad stepper wiring
R34Pr
R34Pr2y ago
I will rewire all ends to be safe and report back if the issue repeats itself @miklschmidt
miklschmidt
miklschmidt2y ago
as in loose connection, bad crimp, wrong pin order etc.
R34Pr
R34Pr2y ago
I ended up tightening the connections on a few pins, so here's to hoping that was the issue. First boot leaves me with this error
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R34Pr
R34Pr2y ago
Printer.cfg from previous working setup
R34Pr
R34Pr2y ago
Notes: Pinout on the EBB42 changed bc a mosfet issue where the fan speed runs 100% of the time so I switched the part cooling fan to the extruder fan and im using the extruder fan as the part cooling fan.
R34Pr
R34Pr2y ago
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R34Pr
R34Pr2y ago
@blacksmithforlife @miklschmidt would flashing from "firmware_binaries" help solve this issue?
miklschmidt
miklschmidt2y ago
these two have nothing to do with eachother looking into this
R34Pr
R34Pr2y ago
I think I mightve updated Klipper before the board was successfully flashed. Thank you though!
miklschmidt
miklschmidt2y ago
You need to uncomment line 282, 283, 290, 297. Do not override your board pin aliases. So delete from 315 to 338 To change the fan pins, just do:
[fan]
pin: toolboard:PA1

[heater_fan toolhead_cooling_fan]
pin: toolboard:PA0
[fan]
pin: toolboard:PA1

[heater_fan toolhead_cooling_fan]
pin: toolboard:PA0
R34Pr
R34Pr2y ago
Editing CFG now, thank you!
miklschmidt
miklschmidt2y ago
fixed the heater_fan name, forgot what it was called
R34Pr
R34Pr2y ago
extruder actually extrudes the right direction atm
miklschmidt
miklschmidt2y ago
ah yeah and it's already defined in toolboard.cfg, so you don't need that one.
R34Pr
R34Pr2y ago
Sorry for the photo dump.
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miklschmidt
miklschmidt2y ago
looks good to me But why are you looking at your stepper x/y cables? oh because of this, right Good
R34Pr
R34Pr2y ago
I triple checked the wiring diagram multiple times compared to the BTT SKR 3 EZ (for v-minion), and everything matches but I have to reverse my homing direction in both X & Y to get it to home correctly. but yes for the above attached. There were a couple of mines that I clamped a bit tighter on the exposed wires and I cleaned up the clamp around the insulation.
miklschmidt
miklschmidt2y ago
No, this indicates stepper reversal Do not invert the homing direction, make sure your axes are moving correctly instead So SET_CENTER_KINEMATIC_POSITION click the arrows The toolhead should move with the arrows when looking at the printer from the front Ie, 0,0 should be in the front left corner. If it's not you either swapped X/Y or the dir pins need flipping
miklschmidt
miklschmidt2y ago
Voron diagram is helpful here (i need to make an RR version, but never got around to it)
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miklschmidt
miklschmidt2y ago
if we're talking about a minion, it's even easier
R34Pr
R34Pr2y ago
I'm using the SKR 3 EZ on the V-Core 3.1 along with the EBB42 for the extruder stepper
miklschmidt
miklschmidt2y ago
Ugh, i just realized yeah.. The SKR 3 EZ is not configured to be useable on a v-core 3, that's why you had your board alias overrides, wasn't it?
R34Pr
R34Pr2y ago
yessir
miklschmidt
miklschmidt2y ago
yeah don't delete those then 😂 Sorry, i should've put 2 and 2 together
R34Pr
R34Pr2y ago
and im not well versed (as you can tell) with Klipper yet so I just basically copied and pasted that operation to switch the pinout for the EBB42. I will however switch that!
miklschmidt
miklschmidt2y ago
The ebb42 pinout shouldn't need to change But the SKR 3 EZ would As you need to map the last 3 drivers to the 3 z's
R34Pr
R34Pr2y ago
no worries! i wouldve went with the octopus or something but I won the 3 EZ during the RatRig giveaway The mofset was blown or not working correctly because the part cooling fan ran 100% as soon as it hit power. I didnt want to exchange the board as they were hard to come by at the time so I switched the part cooling fan for the hotend fan because the hotend fan seems to run all the time anyways
miklschmidt
miklschmidt2y ago
The mofset was blown or not working correctly because the part cooling fan ran 100% as soon as it hit power.
If you're using a 4-wire server fan, like a 4028, this is normal. It stops once the board is booted and connected to klippy (on the pi) If its a 2-wire fan, then yeah, prolly dead mosfet
R34Pr
R34Pr2y ago
it a 2 wire unfortunately
miklschmidt
miklschmidt2y ago
right, so you made the right call
R34Pr
R34Pr2y ago
but thats good to know for the future. thanks for all the help once again. saving the printer.cfg and will see what we get. I had the PT1000 jumper on the SKR 3 EZ initially but removed it since I moved the thermistor and heater of the Rapido to the EBB42. Should that be okay?
miklschmidt
miklschmidt2y ago
I've added a 3z config for the SKR 3 EZ that you can use instead of overriding the board alias
R34Pr
R34Pr2y ago
Awesome!
miklschmidt
miklschmidt2y ago
just load config-3z.cfg instead of config.cfg yes you need to update RatOS first of course, before this works
R34Pr
R34Pr2y ago
is the bltouch a npn nc?
miklschmidt
miklschmidt2y ago
So from left to right it goes: X, Y, Z0, Z1, Z2. That is, X, Y, Front left Z, Rear Z, Front Right Z.
R34Pr
R34Pr2y ago
thats exactly how i have it currently setup
miklschmidt
miklschmidt2y ago
bltouch uses [bltouch] not [probe] I told you to uncomment the probe lines.. Disregard that if your using bltouch Just so rare that i see those i just assumed..
R34Pr
R34Pr2y ago
double checking the uncommenting lines and 283 was npn nc probes
miklschmidt
miklschmidt2y ago
I'm not doing great at suppor today lol
R34Pr
R34Pr2y ago
no you're not... youre fantastic 🙂
miklschmidt
miklschmidt2y ago
It was, leave those commented out I appreciate it 🙏
R34Pr
R34Pr2y ago
I'd be lost rn honestly. I had a BLTouch left from a limp CR10s that I ended up reusing. I'm not very well versed on the best components or the klipper side of things yet (still learning). I do reverse engineering / cad design / drafting though so any kind of mods will be easy to design haha.
R34Pr
R34Pr2y ago
I haven't calibrated or setup input shaper yet.
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R34Pr
R34Pr2y ago
but this is what came up from doing the original pin edits. i haven't updated klipper, or tried using the config-3z.cfg yet. I can do that now though. I will double check that my Z steppers are correct first. @miklschmidt
miklschmidt
miklschmidt2y ago
looking There should be a [resonance_tester] section with probe_points in your printer.cfg, uncomment that It'll work fine, it's just a bit slow 🙂
I do reverse engineering / cad design / drafting though so any kind of mods will be easy to design haha.
Awesome! I'm gonna be expecting some mods from you then! 😄 It's on line 255, 245 and whatever line matches your printer size at least in the last printer.cfg you uploaded 😄
R34Pr
R34Pr2y ago
Sorry ran to the computer to check the wiring
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miklschmidt
miklschmidt2y ago
yep that looks right
R34Pr
R34Pr2y ago
original printer config edit after uncommenting the input shaper related stuff around line item 255. If it's fine with you I can dump this and use the config-3z etc? @miklschmidt
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miklschmidt
miklschmidt2y ago
Yep do that.
R34Pr
R34Pr2y ago
Should the config-3z.cfg be nested under RatOS->boards->btt-skr-3-ez? @miklschmidt in due time, I definitely want to help the community in any way that I can. Either by uploading/sharing my original ideas/designs or by helping someone else design their idea.
miklschmidt
miklschmidt2y ago
Yeah you use it like this up in the board section
[include RatOS/boards/btt-skr-3-ez/config-3z.cfg]
[include RatOS/boards/btt-skr-3-ez/config-3z.cfg]
R34Pr
R34Pr2y ago
i swear it wasn't there when i asked originally -_-
miklschmidt
miklschmidt2y ago
Probably needed a refresh 😄
R34Pr
R34Pr2y ago
apparently so -_- lol
R34Pr
R34Pr2y ago
new updated config
miklschmidt
miklschmidt2y ago
looks good! Does it work?
R34Pr
R34Pr2y ago
its not tossing any errors haha. im going to go home it and see what happens. if all goes well, i will do the SET_CENTER_KINEMATIC_POSITION to fix the direction Everything seems to be working as it should. So I will reverse the pin direction in the printer.cfg Do SET_CENTER_KINEMATIC_POSITION I’m expecting it to move in the opposite direction, so will it be as simple as fixing it using SET_CENTER_KINEMATIC_POSITION or will I have to flip some wires around on the stepper motor cables? After that I will move onto calibrating the machine. I heard Ellis’ Print Tuning Guide is helpful along with whatever SuperSlicer has built in. That should help me get flow rate, input shaper, etc down. Do resonance tuning and pressure advance after I suppose. I mainly focus on reverse engineering and designing & printing automotive parts -mostly in ASA. I picked the 500 for build volume, I understand that it’s not going to be an all out speed demon compared to a smaller bed size but I don’t need it to be. It’ll be light years ahead of the CR-10S that I came from. I will need to reprint the parts in ASA because the EVA PETG parts aren’t looking great -especially the BLTouch mount rn lol. I can’t begin to thank you enough for your help. @miklschmidt
miklschmidt
miklschmidt2y ago
refer to this diagram as far as axes directions go: https://discord.com/channels/582187371529764864/1092981537596788786/1093275632777048115
After that I will move onto calibrating the machine. I heard Ellis’ Print Tuning Guide is helpful along with whatever SuperSlicer has built in.
Ellis' guide is great!
That should help me get flow rate, input shaper, etc down.
Input shaper = resonance tuning. It's a press of a button basically. RatOS has macro's for generating graphs, but you can also do SHAPER_CALIBRATE and hit SAVE_CONFIG then it'll do everything for you. Before you start tuning it's a good idea to run MEASURE_COREXY_BELT_TENSION, that will help you get your belt tension equal which is important for Core XY.
I picked the 500 for build volume, I understand that it’s not going to be an all out speed demon compared to a smaller bed size but I don’t need it to be. It’ll be light years ahead of the CR-10S that I came from.
Don't worry it's still plenty fast 😄 you can expect good 200 mm/s @ 5k accel prints.
I can’t begin to thank you enough for your help.
You're welcome 🙂
R34Pr
R34Pr2y ago
AMAZING! I’ll look into making sure my bed level looks good too. Idk if I should go crazy with it now or print all the parts in ASA and then fine tune it after I tear it apart to replace everything. Yupp definitely plenty fast
miklschmidt
miklschmidt2y ago
I wouldn't go too crazy if you're swapping all the parts for ASA, do that after 🙂 the prusa/super/orca slicer presets should get you decent prints without much tuning. basically just tune your extrusion multiplier and input shaper Then after you've swapped everything you can dive deep into ellis' guide Extrusion multiplier, input shaper and pressure advance 😄
R34Pr
R34Pr2y ago
Perfect! I appreciate everything once again and will start to tackle the calibration. I’ll try to reach out to the rest of the community before tagging you if something else comes up -I’m sure you’re a busy man! I came from Cura, and now using superslicer as I’ve heard good things about it. Thanks thanks thanks. I’ll have to Venmo you for a coffee, beer, lunch or something lol
miklschmidt
miklschmidt2y ago
Have fun with it! Donations are not necessary, but always welcome, links in my bio if you want 🙂 Appreciate it!
R34Pr
R34Pr2y ago
After spending a good amount of time inspecting the cables, I feel really good about the pin crimps.
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miklschmidt
miklschmidt2y ago
How do you have your motor voltage selector set up? And how did you do your power wiring on the SKR 3 EZ?
R34Pr
R34Pr2y ago
Verifying everything right now @miklschmidt
R34Pr
R34Pr2y ago
I used these two as my guides for wiring.
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R34Pr
R34Pr2y ago
However, it appears as though I missed the jumpers for the stepper motors
miklschmidt
miklschmidt2y ago
that explains the undervoltage. As in zero voltage 😄
R34Pr
R34Pr2y ago
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R34Pr
R34Pr2y ago
They are there but not in the right place
miklschmidt
miklschmidt2y ago
Ooooh the diagram is wrong Sorry about that, will fix that
R34Pr
R34Pr2y ago
No worries about that at all.
R34Pr
R34Pr2y ago
So this is how the jumper is placed currently
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miklschmidt
miklschmidt2y ago
That should work
R34Pr
R34Pr2y ago
It's a mess currently but here's an overview. This error actually originally popped up even without shortening the wires that came in the kit. All I did was repin them and it tossed up this error so I cut them in hopes that a shorter run would help.
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R34Pr
R34Pr2y ago
My thought process was to leave slack now and then tidy everything up when the printer is running without a hitch in case I have to move wires around and such. @miklschmidt
miklschmidt
miklschmidt2y ago
That's all fine, it's the jumpers that caused the error I've updated the documentation, should be online shortly
R34Pr
R34Pr2y ago
I forgot to move them according to the diagram for the board so they've been in this position the whole time. I swore I triple checked everything a million times because I didn't want to fry anything so maybe I didn't change them to match the diagram because I verified with the manual. @miklschmidt
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miklschmidt
miklschmidt2y ago
Ohh.. Well that's confusing
R34Pr
R34Pr2y ago
Yeah sorry about the wording
miklschmidt
miklschmidt2y ago
No i meant, why it doesn't work is confusing
R34Pr
R34Pr2y ago
Ahh, gotcha. I originally tried to use the BTT EXP-MOT (instead of the EBB42 bc I didn't have a mount). So I have 1-2 normal TMC 2209s that I can try in place of the EZ driver, or I can replace the driver with a spare EZ. I can make a new stepper cable to rule out the wiring completely incase theres an issue under the insulation but I have 20gauge and not the 24/26 that it currently is. @miklschmidt
miklschmidt
miklschmidt2y ago
worth a shot I'm out of ideas at least I'd try replacing the drivers first
R34Pr
R34Pr2y ago
https://biqu.equipment/products/bigtreeetech-skrat-v1-0-control-board this is looking really nice right about now but i dont think it's a board issue haha. I'll replace the driver and see what happens. I should really order a couple spare motors / parts to have on hand for troubleshooting purposes.
Biqu Equipment
BIGTREEETECH SKRat V1.0 Control Board
Purchase Rule: The first five buyers will get 5PCS TMC2209 drivers for free.
miklschmidt
miklschmidt2y ago
Hahaha If you can't get it working i suggest hopping over in #bigtreetech and asking there
R34Pr
R34Pr2y ago
I forgot that I have a spare uncut stepper motor cable that was supposed to go to the extruder (thanks EBB42) So I will try; 1) Replacing the cable 2) Replacing the driver & https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UI86W26lgl0 I'm hoping the DC-Module didn't cause any issues. If only my replacement board didn't have a bootloader prob.
TH3D Studio
YouTube
EZTip #4 - Testing and Checking your Stepper Motors
Recommended Entry-Level Multimeter: https://amzn.to/2DMY8s3 Music Sources: From Zero to Zed: Check out new tunes from From Zero To Zed here! https://fromzerotozed.bandcamp.com/ Subscribe to their YouTube channel for the latest tunes: https://www.youtube.com/c/FromZeroToZed/ ** ❤️️ We love maki...
R34Pr
R34Pr2y ago
Would this files be useful to be uploaded somewhere more available for others? Also, how does flashing a hex file work? Do I rename it to firmware.bin or just put the hex file in the root directory, or use another software program entirely? @miklschmidt
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miklschmidt
miklschmidt2y ago
Hopefully it's the 743 because the 723 isn't fully supported in klipper yet. You need a .bin file, and you flash it via dfu-util.
R34Pr
R34Pr2y ago
That explains everything, it’s the 723!
miklschmidt
miklschmidt2y ago
dfu-util -a 0 --dfuse-address 0x08000000 -D bootloader.bin
dfu-util -a 0 --dfuse-address 0x08000000 -D bootloader.bin
Should do it. Lemme double check, but i'm fairly sure that doesn't work yet.
R34Pr
R34Pr2y ago
So would that explain why it’s not getting recognized?
miklschmidt
miklschmidt2y ago
Okay so it is supported in klipper, but RatOS currently only supports the 743.. Let me see if it's something i can add quickly
R34Pr
R34Pr2y ago
You’re the bomb!
miklschmidt
miklschmidt2y ago
Ok if you update RatOS through the Machine tab in Mainsail, and then try to flash the board again by picking the SKR 3 EZ H723 in the configurator, it should work. You might need to refresh the update manger by clicking the arrow circle thingy in the header of the update manager dialog on the machine page first hopefully the pins are still the same, i'm 99% sure they are
R34Pr
R34Pr2y ago
Thank you very much sir! You’re the bomb! @miklschmidt Going to try it now but I’ll double check them to make sure I had a print going when I messaged ya last and finally got around to updating (ratos, configurator, system, and klipper) after everything updated, I can’t connect my original H743 after restarting the firmware. Will I need to run thru the updated configurator @miklschmidt ?
miklschmidt
miklschmidt2y ago
Uh.. weird! Klippy.log? Oh no i know! I fucked up, just a sec
R34Pr
R34Pr2y ago
The weird thing is that it noticed that it was the 743 and then after the restart it couldn’t connect to the MCU lol. @miklschmidt
miklschmidt
miklschmidt2y ago
update again and it should work Sorry about that! note to self: write a test to check for duplicate udev rules facepalm update again.. (found another mistake)
R34Pr
R34Pr2y ago
Ahaha, no worries, thanks boss! You da best @miklschmidt updating now! Lost connection with toolboard now lol 😂 @miklschmidt it looks like it might be in DFU mode bc the blue light is solid on it along with the green light
miklschmidt
miklschmidt2y ago
as far as i can tell that is unrelated. At least i made no changes to any toolboards. Try and hit the reset button on the toolboard that is
R34Pr
R34Pr2y ago
I just ran thru the configurator and it picked it up right away (didn’t flash it or anything) just hit next, took me to mainsail, and it’s all good now. @miklschmidt
miklschmidt
miklschmidt2y ago
oh ok great! I need to get myself some sleep, but do let me know if the H723 works, if it doesn't i'll take another look at it tomorrow! 04:21AM here :S
R34Pr
R34Pr2y ago
Weird it’s only when I hit Z-Tilt that it doesn’t respond but homes just fine @miklschmidt Goodnight!!! Thank you once again!!
miklschmidt
miklschmidt2y ago
check the strain relief on the USB connector, needs to be solid so that the usb connector can't move. Good night! 🙂
R34Pr
R34Pr2y ago
Did a reboot of the pie, power cycled the board, unplugged, and replugged the USBs and all was good to go. I’m running a 30 hour print (probs 20 hours left now —need to look into finding a more accurate time estimator) but will flash the new board after ASAP. @miklschmidt installing some PC Eva components and switching out the main board to the H723 board! Ill let ya know how it goes
R34Pr
R34Pr2y ago
Okay, so I was able to flash it successfully using the configurator in DFU Mode but it's still not detecting the MCU in Mainsail. @miklschmidt
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R34Pr
R34Pr2y ago
However I have no idea what this means bc imma noob lol.
miklschmidt
miklschmidt2y ago
That's my bad, you need to include btt-skr-3-ez-723/config.cfg instead of btt-skr-3-ez/config.cfg in the top of printer.cfg i forgot to tell you
R34Pr
R34Pr2y ago
Wait, did I need to flash over the file that BTT/BIQU sent first
miklschmidt
miklschmidt2y ago
You don't need that anyway so feel free to ignore 🙂
R34Pr
R34Pr2y ago
okay phew
miklschmidt
miklschmidt2y ago
Yes forget that one you're all good 🙂
R34Pr
R34Pr2y ago
I'll update the mainboard in the printer.cfg and cross my fingers haha Works like a charm @miklschmidt
miklschmidt
miklschmidt2y ago
Excellent!
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