looking for thick MTM blazer
Hello,
I'm looking for a rugged looking thick blazer, a bit like the one in the photo (thickness wise, not the color or pattern)
Thing is, since I'm stupidly small and lightweight I absolutely need it to be MTM.
If on SS I select a 350-400gsm fabric will I achieve what I want ? Their live 3D thingy isn't helpful to get a feel of the texture of the fabric
I'm in France and I don't know of something else like SS, also I don't want it to be too expensive, SS is already 500€ smth like that for the jacket.
Thanks in advance
54 Replies
Do you know what jacket size you'd be? Will be helpful to know to make sure that MTM rather than new RTW/secondhand is the best option for you
350-400 gsm is getting there. The MTM winter blazer being made for me is 500 gsm
Here's the fabric: https://www.hfwltd.com/single_piece/258150
Huddersfield's alsport and alsport II lines have a whole selection of 500 gsm tweed fabrics
It's quite helpful to feel fabrics in person btw. Is there a MTM store in your area to visit?
I'm 42 I believe
But I need to adjust a lot of things, I already bought a whole MTM suit once there, it was a fairly lightweight light blue suit with a gurkha pant
But yes, jackets do fit easier than pants, so maybe RTW could work ... But I kind of never found anything that fitted well :/ it's already super hard to find 42 jackets ...
42 EU?
Yeah
Like XXS or something
I'm 165cm and 50Kg for context
I see, that is hard. I'm 44 which I thought was hard lol
There are, but it's way more expensive than suitsupply
Asian makers like ring jacket do have size 42
Yeah, but thing is I have relatively big shoulders for my size due to a genetic disease that forces me to always contract my shoulder muscle for my arm to litterally not fall off lmao
So even if I'm 42 shoulder wise, usually when it fits the shoulders everything else is too long
Ring jacket ? I'll check it out
Yeah you can proxy order ring jacket or order from the beams web store/beams outlet (beams F and brilla per il gusto lines are mainly ring jacket made)
It's available EU?
Tho ordering from Japan has its downsides (you can't return proxy orders at all and I dunno about returning beams orders from outside Japan )
What's a beam order ?
Beams is a Japanese store/brand
Your specific fit issues do sound like you're a good candidate for MTM however. I'm honestly not sure if ring jacket/beams would work for you. They do have measurements online you can take a look at and compare to your garments
Lemme find some for you
I honestly kind of never found anything that fit me well RTW, even when it was 42, maybe I am too exigeant when it comes to fit idk
But thanks for the suggestion, I'll take a look
And besides SS or MTM shops in my city you don't know any other MTM services ?
Their different models can vary a lil but here's one for beams F (in CM):
42
Length 70/Shoulder width 42/Body width 47.5/Sleeve length 57.5
I'm not too familiar with france as I'm in the USA but I can look into it
To give you an idea of my current suitsupply size, I need to make some adjustement still though (like reducing sleeve lenght)
Forgot the first part
I had to take 42 and still reduce everything by quite a lot
(to the point I reached the minimum they would let me set on some variables lmao)
So yeah thanks, 350-400gsm is a good starting point, good to know
Do you have an idea if 42 cm is the right shoulder width for you?
I can wear the jacket and show you maybe ?
Sometimes i'm almost at 44
Yes and other people here with more knowledge on fit can chime in as well
And wait, is 42-44 "size" really 42cm or 44cm ?
Not sure
I have an overcoat that I think suits me well that is 44 size, but I do need some thick stuff beneath (like a thick jacket :p)
Btw are you set on your rugged jacket being a tailored jacket right now?
overcoat RTW from Suitsupply btw (and wow is the quality good compared to what i'm used :o)
A more casual jacket like a chore coat is more forgiving fit wise
Or an overcoat
I kind of wanted one yes, even if i'm open to other stuff but it would be more stuff rather than forgetting the blazer
(not the same colors)
I like this kind of look, suit jacket + overcoat + turtleneck
And i'm already buying something that will have the same use as the rugged suit jacked, a shawl collar cardigan
So I already have (well it's getting shipped today so i don't own it yet) the "easier to fit rtw more casual alternative"
Hmm ok. I do have a herringbone wool chore coat that goes well with a turtleneck and would go well under an overcoat
Sorry for the sweatpants but I'm just getting out of bed :p
I'll find a pic for you of me wearing it with a turtleneck if you'd like. I think tailored jacket wise, it's crucially important to have a trustworthy tailor and/or MTM store given your unique measurements
I think so too
And RTW is still super hard because almost nothing does XS / 42 😦
I'm not confident enough of assessing fit from pictures but others here will be able to help. It'd be better if you take pics with slacks and shoes
Yours is something like that ? I do like this yes
Yes!
I found mine on eBay. It was XS
Yeah i'll try to find some pics where I have everything, I went to two wedding in 2023 with this suit
Yah or just take new ones in the same poses as the pics you sent
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Would you mind sharing your height/weight ?
This MTM provider would be ideal but it's over budget
5'7", 125 pounds
Maybe I'll do that yes, the gurkha pant is so annoying to put on though with those littles buckles 🤣 🤣
oh yeah, imperial units 😦 Let me translate that
I think it's time for me to go to bed btw but I'll be around tomorrow
56kg, 170cm, quite a bit more than me
Yeah good night ! I'm just starting the day myself haha
Thanks for the answers, knowing that I could achieve what I want with a 350-400gsm fabric on SS is already cool
If Suitsupply worked for you in the past, stay with them. I will say though that even their heaviest cloths are quite light compared to something like tweed. Sadly they only use Italian mills nowadays. British RTW Shops are probably not an option since their sizes are not only big from the get go but also mostly start at small or medium. (48/50)
Agree on the Gurkhas from Susu, they are so annoying to put on.
And the sleeves are a bit long, aren't they?
Yes they are, and altering the length is quite expensive (80eur) because they need to do it from the shoulders
But I'll know it for the next one and reduce them by like 1cm - 2cm
Okay thanks, too bad they don't have something like tweed but I guess it will be good enough thanks
So choosing by GSM is good idea ? Like the highest GSM fabric with a color that I still like
There are just soooo many options ...
And as for the gurkhas, if you own one did you do something about those buckles ? The small metal bit that has to fit in the hole is so loose it always get out of the first hole ... I think i'll try to mod them one day
GSM is only an indicator, Irish linens are often in the range you are describing while still being summer suiting. Maybe it was mentioned before, do you have the possibility to visit a store?
For the Gurkhas since it is integrated into the waistband there is not a lot you can do. With Gurkhas from other brands you can move the buckles but not so with Susu Gurkhas. You can get new holes but it will look strange.
Not a suitsupply store no, it's in paris and i'm in toulouse
Have you looked at boys sizes from traditional suiting companies or do your shoulders prohibit this?
I have and yeah it doesn't work, same problems + it usually doesn't look good