Blazer/suit jacket/etc sizing

I've been hunting around for blazers (foremost) and sport coats and suits, mainly at vintage and thrift stores - but I think by now I've tried on quite a good variety of popular brands and old tailoring - for the last several months, and reading about all of this plenty. Over time I've gotten more and more concerned that it might be quite difficult to find anything OTR that fits in the shoulders/top block, and is not much too large in the chest/waist - two or more sizes larger, I assume well beyond the scope of looseness or alterations a tailor can make. (wouldn't mind posting my measurements if that'll help.) Some things here and there on eBay list measurements that maybe could work, but in person everything I've tried that fits my shoulder size is quite baggy, usually with the length way off as well. Lot of RL, Brooks Brothers, Jos A Bank, etc out there. Haven't taken any useful pictures since I'd been assuming I'll find better / been in very small fitting rooms. I've seen some rather sweeping advice to not go MTM first, here in particular! But, should I start thinking I may need to do something like that to get any kind of jacket that fits? How can I expect that to go? Sounds really daunting esp. without any even OK reference garment. Should I let's say, change my expectations for how loose jackets should be? I don't think I'm keen on that... And any ideas otherwise? Anything I might be wrong about / missing?
19 Replies
jfarrell468
jfarrell4684mo ago
Can you post some specific sizes and measurements?
femto
femto4mo ago
Shoulders are 19" across. Some jackets measuring about 19.5" on the outside indeed fit near perfect as far as I can tell at the shoulders, jackets measuring ~19" or less on the outside seem to be no good. I'm 39" around right at the armpits, 36" at the middle of my chest, 35" at the waist.
jfarrell468
jfarrell4684mo ago
Hmm...I'm surprised you can't find 40R jackets that fit.
bishopcorrigan
bishopcorrigan4mo ago
Pics of jackets that fit in the shoulders but you feel are too large elsewhere are gonna be really useful here
jfarrell468
jfarrell4684mo ago
My measurements are sort of similar, but my shoulders are more narrow, so I look for 18". I feel like 19" is much more common in 40R than 18"
bishopcorrigan
bishopcorrigan4mo ago
Need to know what you have and what you’re after
femto
femto4mo ago
I've never seen a 40R anywhere near big enough in the shoulders (in person)
awburkey
awburkey4mo ago
That can't possible be true bc I've found 38Rs that have 19" shoulders I agree with bishop pics would be super helpful
femto
femto4mo ago
In terms of clothes I own don't have anything, and not keen on buying something like that even in a thrift, so it'll be a matter of being able to take a picture in store
jfarrell468
jfarrell4684mo ago
Maybe try getting a cloth tape measure, bring it with you, find something that fits, and measure it.
femto
femto4mo ago
I've been taking a tape measure with me every time Got a Singer kit in my wallet Maybe the sample of what's in thrifts is skewed; any vintage store only has so many things too
jfarrell468
jfarrell4684mo ago
eBay
Vintage Southwick Mens Blazer Sport Coat Two Button Jacket Tweed 40...
Classic High-End Blazer for Casual or Evening. Outside Flap Side Pockets.
awburkey
awburkey4mo ago
I'm curious how these jackets do fit you in the waist. A bit of room there is really nice. Like this jacket isn't v trim on me and I think that's a good thing https://discord.com/channels/1116793467654381685/1116800072093532191/1209922883355279411
femto
femto4mo ago
Probably too tight all over for me. And I need ~25" sleeves. But thanks, does confirm that there's more variation Yeah I agree. It's just hard to figure out what I like as is, without wearing stuff 🫠 Hopefully🤞 there's some 42's out there that would be great I'm just really hesitant to spend a bunch on eBay when I'm not experienced with this stuff... and measurements look iffy/what I do know has me concerned...
shootfilmnotbullets
40r usually has smaller shoulders no? I’m a 42L in a lot of suits and my actual shoulder measurement is about 18” Oh no you’re right The suits I like the fit of are closer to 19” 40r s&m js 18.3”
jfarrell468
jfarrell4684mo ago
Median shoulder size of 40r blazers on eBay is 18.5. Mean is 18.6. (based on 42 listings. Yes, I collected data and made a spreadsheet, because I'm weird like that.) I keep meaning to make a doc with all the eBay knowledge I've accumulated.
femto
femto4mo ago
Yeah that could be cool to have! I've looked at I'm sure hundreds of listings, and I still haven't seen one 40 that's over 19" as presumably I'd need. My problem is I don't really know what pit-to-pit size works well (is 23" across too big? just right? quite unsure) since the size & fit always has failed somewhere else, if I just try on blazers that have got the shoulders that ends up being 44+ I'll hopefully hit up some secondhand stores today and try to take pictures in the "best" fitting things I see
femto
femto4mo ago
today didn't really find anything that fit quite right in the shoulder or in general, somehow best I can do is this linen H&M jacket, 44R....
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femto
femto4mo ago
and slightly big in the shoulder?, too big elsewhere, I think this was labelled 42.
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