Rapido 2 UHF Clogging. Updated heatbreak and thermistor
There is an annoying occasional clogging with the older style Rapido 2 UHF. Rapido 2 now has an updated heatbreak and thermistor that is supposed to remedy this issue. Has anyone got this warrantied through RatRig or Phaetus? I am checking before I order the updated version from west3d. I haven't contracted RatRig yet as it seems their website is down. Everything else with the vcore4 is running perfectly. Thanks
9 Replies
Following because I have the same (screw in thermistor), but gave up and got a rapido ace from triangle labs. Post what you find, as I'd like to get it replaced if possible, just to have a good one.
Mine was more false temp readings than clogs, but still
I will. I have been having to print PETG at unusual but not uncommon temperatures. 250-260c +. The clogs don't usually happen mid print, only after a few load/unloads. I was removing the rapido 2 at first to unclog but now I am shoving a metal rod that come with a different printer through the top. I dont expect this to keep working for long since its not completley cleaning the heatbreak.
I posted a ptfe cutting jig in mods, use that, then chamfer the input side. Adjust the screw that touches the ptfe on the underside of the orbiter until it's almost flush and rocks just a tiny bit, then tighten it down.
After a cold pull ofc
Maybe that'll help until you can get a replacement
The PTFE tube was the first thing I suspected so I replaced it with capricorn tubing. I adjusted it with a bit of preload and without a bit of preload on the heatbreak and neither helped. Thats before I figured out that the clogs are happening at the heatbreak itself below the ptfe from heatcreep. It is deforming the filament too far up the heatbreak and when doing unloads it leaves cooled deformed filament behind, causing the clog. Supposedly the updated heatbreak has titanium there instead of stainless for better insulation. The thermistor is the same PT1000, the new one being slide in vs screw in making it much easier to replace. Take this with a grain of salt as i could be completely wrong.
Capricorn tube is a bit too narrow, I'm going to use 2.5mm ID tube with my ace
You're right about it being a bit too narrow. Both the capricorn and the included tubing leave a bit of a lip, so ill be putting a chamfer on it next time i disassemble it like you suggested. That should make the loading a bit smoother.
I bought 2,5 tube from bambu, makes for a nice filament path too. Figured it was the better choice than rando all caps amazon name
I looked at the triangle labs rapido ace, it looks like a better hotend all around. If i dont get the updated parts warrantied through ratrig or phaetus ill probably end up going with that.
Just FYI I ended up going with the triangle labs dragon ace for now. It seems to be the best of all worlds. Gonna experiment with it, the included spacer and their melt zone extender to get the correct height. It is on sale right now for around 60usd. Shipping time is pretty long but I think I can limp this rapido 2 for now.
I just got the screws in for mounting the rap-ace, it didn't include the longer m2.5 for use with the spacer. Plan on sourcing some. I got stainless Torx from McMaster