Arduino•9mo ago

JBC Soldering Station

First of all, I would like to thank every active member of this discord server that has helped, special thanks to @robherc , @Taire , toesis and MaderDash. A couple months ago I started looking for a new soldering iron, when I saw that while there were some promising Chinese models, most of them had design flaws and other kind of drawbacks. Just looking at the prices of reputable name-brand irons made me sick so I decided to design my own. I started my research with opamps, high and low side switching for high power loads (10A at 24V), then moved onto all the details features that the real one has. The soldering is not the nicest, I had no solder paste so I first added solder via my iron and then reflowed it, but by that time too much oxidation was on the surface Things to do: -PID control -Voltage-Power adjustment to compensate for lower supply voltages -Tip detection for automatically changing the settings (duty%) for C115, C210, and C245 tips (9, 12, 24V rated) -Designing and 3D printing an enclousure -Resoldering the input cables and changing them for thicker ones -Reintroducing the power bar

515 Replies

KLeviOP•9mo ago

robherc•9mo ago

You might want to add a refresh-rate limit for your screen, just to make it seem a little less "jittery" (i.e. maybe only refresh the screen every 250-1000ms)

KLeviOP•9mo ago

Because of slight temp fluctuations?

robherc•9mo ago

yes...it just makes the screen "feel less nervous"

Taire•9mo ago

oké fam just made what I spend 1k for other then that looks good however I believe you could shove more volts tru the tip atleast for thr heating coil that would make it heat faster but happy we could be of help. and happy to see that my knowledge is being put to use by others in this community

KLeviOP•9mo ago

I belive that with PID in place the warm up will be much faster. Happy that you like it

Taire•9mo ago

fair enough I always look at issues with a hardware look

KLeviOP•9mo ago

I'll might increased the refresh timers value... or just add some extra smoothing to the displayed value but I don't want it to be fake either like some of those knock-off equipment

Taire•9mo ago

the real one doesn't update to often but it does have a power indicator

KLeviOP•9mo ago

I have that aswell, a power bar on the bottom that will have to be reintroduced. It was causing some display glitches. Here you can see it working https://discord.com/channels/420594746990526466/720118233276874822/1314922358338883655 . Plus an LED that you can see blinking in the video on the other side xD

robherc•9mo ago

yeah, I'd just have it refresh no faster than 4x/second at the absolute fastest (partly because it's important to keep calm going on while soldering, nervous & excited makes for more mistakes, so I like to keep the screen updates a little slower & more relaxed (especially since thr tip temperature isn't going to change enough in even 2 seconds to actually matter to the soldering process.)

KLeviOP•9mo ago

Well, with a better control algorithm I'm looking for a 2 sec warm up time so... I'll consider your suggestion and work on part. By the way, by any chance could you help me with the RMS calculations and duty% for the lower voltage tips. Perhaps something like √Ton² * Toff² or am I completely off?

robherc•9mo ago

sqrt(V^2 • Ton/(Ton+Toff)) iirc

KLeviOP•9mo ago

Thanks!

robherc•9mo ago

@KLevi your gate-driver PNP, in this schematic, is always being pulled low (turned on)...if you want it to turn on & off on command, you'll still need to voltage-shift the signal to the pnp, similar to how you had to voltage-shift to run the p-MOSFET

KLeviOP•9mo ago

How did I miss that?! Thanks for looking over my schematic, guess I won't be reinstalling it afterall Was my idea at least semi-correct? The voltage divider like driving setup is because of the relatively small max Vgs of the mosfet. That was causing quite some confusion today in the voice chat when showing my design

robherc•9mo ago

I usually do it with the zener "propping up" the voltage from between the P-MOS & the npn or n-MOS that's triggering it, but you have a 3k resistor on your triggering transistor, so your zener should never need to pass more than (24v-9v=15v, 15v/3k=5mA), so as long as that zener is rated for over 5mA sustained avalanche current, you should be fine there.

KLeviOP•9mo ago

Actually, that zener was changed to a 12V one by empirical agreement xD Forgot to update the datasheet. Are you telling me that that 3k transistor could be decreased significantly as well as the gate pullup resistor?

robherc•9mo ago

how many mA load is your zener rated for?

KLeviOP•9mo ago

1W so 1/12 -> 83mA?

robherc•9mo ago

then check your resistors' wattage & you can go as low as the resistors can handle without using wire-wound resistors.

KLeviOP•9mo ago

0.25W is the resistors I can stack them on top of eachother tho xD. Did that today to get a specific value for the opamp

robherc•9mo ago

I'd make the resistor R14 somewhat lower resistance than R9 though, so the zener actually has a reason to exist 😂 (right now, with R9 having lower value than R13, the zener is "seeing" 24v•2k/5k=9.6v max at VCC=24v)

KLeviOP•9mo ago

Yep and the zener pulls it up to 12V?

robherc•9mo ago

Zener only pulls when it "sees" a voltage of MORE THAN it's zener-voltage across its terminals

KLeviOP•9mo ago

24V-9,6V > 12Vzener

robherc•9mo ago

nope, your zener is seeing +24v & then whatever voltage hits the P-MOS gate

KLeviOP•9mo ago

But since its only 9,6V, the zener literally has no reason to exist since as long as its above 4V its fine

robherc•9mo ago

and your v-div puts the gate at 14.4v (9.6v below 24v)

KLeviOP•9mo ago

ahhhhh Got it Thought it was the other way around, 9,6V above gnd

robherc•9mo ago

yeah, the zener has no reference to GND in that circuit...thus why I was referencing to +24v, since it has a reference to that power-rail.

KLeviOP•9mo ago

Replaced the resistors with smaller values, R9=270, R14=510, R11=3k ohm. The on and off times were reduced to 1/5 of the original value so now it has a 7,5ns turn on time and 20ns off time. R11 might need to be smaller, I'll check the datasheet at my PC to calculate the gain.

KLeviOP•9mo ago

Also got PID control running. If anyone knows how hard it is to solder those thick power planes with extra wires and solder

KLeviOP•9mo ago

IDK if you remember but my switching used to look like a sawtooth/sine wave when starting this project 😂 Also added the 1000uF bulk (C6) capacitor since the switching was causing very big power drops (15V peak to peak), it's now pretty much noise free

KLeviOP•9mo ago

(input voltage drops and noise before the capacitor was installed)

Taire•9mo ago

@Misty Cloud

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

Just a simple ATmega328PB. No module involved. Both SPI and serial programming pins are broken out for uploading

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

I was considering SMT32 for this, even ported the code and got it sort of working with some of the features but after finding out that I have just enough analog pins on the ATmega, I settled on that for simplicity

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

Would be cool, the only problem is that the temp measurements of the tip must (at least as far as I know) be done when the heating element is turned off. So it can't run entirely separately, must be done in the correct sequence

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

I haven't hit any speed related limitations so far. The PWM is 4khz, 11bit. The I2C screen is limited by the screen itself, but I've hit quite high framerates, especially when only updating a few elements. There is an opamp that amplifies the 20mV signal for the ATmega, got a quite accurate result

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

BUT, I am running out of program space, have hit 94-96% ram before, now at 84% but it'd be cool to add some graphics to the screen and stuff. A new, a 21st century MCU would be definitely a better choice if I was making this for production What do you mean? Sorry

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

Yeah, especially since it's Arduino compatible as far as I know

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

I'd rather solder the IC itself 😄

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

Would you like to come to talk about it in voice chat?

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

Which continent do you live on?

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

Europe

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

Same, still cheaper than the shipping between USA and here

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

Ahh yeah, I haven't started that. I've only designed and printed a holder with sleep sensing mode for it.

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

That's amazing I just use my ender 3. Just upgraded to a new Mobo

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

Cool. So about the buttons, I use a rotary encoder to change the values, hold the encoder's shaft button to make the increments 5 or 10. Short press to change between settings and 10 sec hold to save all the settings to EEPROM.

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

It can change between 3 types of handles and tips, has hardware support for automatically detecting their kind: JBC c115, c210 and c245. Different sizes and power values, it adjusts for that in code, aswellas tries to compensate for lower input voltages

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

You should see my other 3d enclosures for my PCBs that are designed to be waterproof The screen, mainly that. Also the PID library but now that's fixed A touch screen would probably 2x the cost for limited advantages. I don't want to smear it with my flux or grease covered fingers

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

Yeah but it's very cute. Would be amazing for students to learn on

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

And the quality seems good aswell

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

Yeah, they do. This PCB of mine turned out horrendous. I have no usable solder paste and tried to tin the pads with solder wire before reflowing them but they oxidized too much

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

yeah, kester

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

Do you not use solder paste?

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

And do you reflow solder?

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

yeah yeah. The oxidation was cause the hotplate was too hot but as you can see, there quite large copper pads on the PCB and my store bough soldering station is sh*t.

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

Btw I made the hotplate as well, its from an old clothes iron and a relay to control it. 😄

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

mine is faster, got 2000 watts xD

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

Ohh you don't want that. I only put it together in a single afternoon with all the code and stuff included because I needed it for a project. https://discord.com/channels/420594746990526466/556594862502182914/1274367028181991537

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

I'll add an actual thermocouple made for those temps not just an NTC. Also PID because it overshoots. Can't really do linear regulation with relays 😄

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

Reliability and ease of use. When you have something that "works", why move away? That's all I can think of.

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

Also the 328P has quite a low power consumption, got 4uA in sleep mode for my whole project with a couple extra parts, cut power to those with a mosfet.

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

Both could work. 2x server PSUs in series to get 24V in my case. This supplies my whole bench PSU setup aswell. The electronics are hidden under my table, only the UI is visible https://discord.com/channels/420594746990526466/556594862502182914/1301958033940676659

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

Which I 3D printed :D. 600W 0-50V (Ithink) output Didn't make sense to add power electronics to the design since I already have a nice stable, well regulated source

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

I'm trying to build up my workstation step by step. I'm kind of a cheap guy aswell and I like learning while making my own tools

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

10A is the max consumption, laptop chargers usually don't go that high but using a lower voltage -> power will work just as well, just a slower heating time

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

Also using the C210 or C115 would require significantly less power, those can/should be able to be used with any voltage between 9-24V but the C245 works at 12V quite well I'll buy a C115 to test that feature, using an oscilloscope and the C245 it seems to be outputting the right power values which I get from RMS calculations. Duty cycle + ohms law give the same result xD But RMS calculations sounds more scientific

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

You don't need to see it? You set the temp once, it heats up when you remove it from the holder and cools down when you insert it That would be great if I wanted to sell it in the future

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

No, the heating element is 2,5ohms The amp goes down as the voltage goes down

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

I can compensate for the PWM outputs on the lower end at most but can't change the incoming power regardless xD The original chinese handle uses some very thin wires, the official one as well so as long as its thicker than that

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

Ohh it sure needs a TON of that

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

I only do that when necessary

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

😄 So optimizing the code is writing it into C++ Well, loosing the arduino parts

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

Ahh you used numbers and not bits

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

was supposed to be a bad joke. Anyway, now I'm afraid to show you my mess

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

Where shall I send it to you? it has 2 files

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

Tell me if that doesn't work for you or want me to use something else. Thought it would be easier cuz of the include

STv0_3.4_Working.rar

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

Sorry. Now it should be fine

STv0_3_4_Working.rar

KLeviOP•9mo ago

Thanks for your time!

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

There is quite a lot of stuff commented out that isn't needed anymore. Only important part is with the limit value and the last part of the code where I print the datablock test1 and test2

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

It calls 2x because I wanted to "flush" the ADC. Probably the compiler leaves that out xD

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

Because those values have changed their signs since in different versions of the hardware xD Yeah, I never learned any coding formally, only learning it on the way and going with the solutions that work I admit that it needs work, that's why I'm here in the first place, to learn

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

Right, and you only used things that I already know about. No excuse about that

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

But I only learned about constrain after I finished that part soo xD

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

Okay. This part also used to have some extra values but now it does look odd, right

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

Like multiplying by 20 to divide by 7 to get a fractional division with the ints

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

I'm printing, calculating, doing everything in there

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

Yes I've heard about that but didn't know it was that bad Have you found where so much ram is going? Except from a couple stray values that I haven't removed since I just got this version running

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

Both 😄

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

Ohh noo

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

I lost my latest changes to the code

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

whats the difference between constexpr and const? I have deleted that value aswell... I'll try to figure out where the latest version went

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

Okay. Will keep that in mind and add these changes to the code. Could you please take a look at that very last part where the 'teszt' would be printed? It used to work when I first added it (power bar on the bottom of the screen) but was glitching when I used doubles, now it hasn't been reintroduced I'll reread all of your messages tomorrow and reply to them. It's getting late for me, thanks again

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

It really is just a simple line of black then white line but I found that to be faster since the datablock can be written in a single block? My logic might be flawed and I m probably not right

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

In the oledturbo.h file

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

Sorry I shut down my PC and in bed I can tomorrow

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

Doing it one value at a time could be faster since I could update only the changing values

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

Right

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

That is different now, sorry it was already late when I sent you the code and messed things up

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

The real values are like 500 for Kp, 300for Ki and 50 for Kd

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

Quite aggressive to make sure that it responds fast to temp changes due to soldering thick planes

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

xD When I write a single 0x7E, do you know how many pixels that changes? 8? Or 4?

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

128x64 There are 8 rows so 64/8=8

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

Yes

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

So a line

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

I will introduce a previous power variable to get the difference between the two and only update those pixels

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

Yes, i2c

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

Already doing that change checking thing for the other stuff

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

Ohh nooo

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

When the values change, I rewrite them I have the printflags and stuff

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

Idk at this point

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

Yes, exactly. I might decrease that 100fps tho. I've fixed the interrupt problem in the code aswell. Found that I was reading the screen WHILE the heater was off (which I have already fixed once, don't know what happened to that version, probable broke something else along the way and had to revert) Now the tip should heat up much more effectively, around 2x faster Do you know how can I set a delay of 0.5ms?

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

Found delayMicroseconds in the core. Unfortunately the interrupt fixing still needs some work. I got the original 128byte long bars to work, next will be writing the single rows of 8 bits Doing this takes 2ms on avarage

      displayMS = millis();
      oledSetPosition(0, 7);
      oledWriteDataBlock(teszt, dPower);
      oledWriteDataBlock(teszt2, 128 - dPower);
      Serial1.println(millis() - displayMS);

      displayMS = millis();
      oledSetPosition(0, 7);
      oledWriteDataBlock(teszt, dPower);
      oledWriteDataBlock(teszt2, 128 - dPower);
      Serial1.println(millis() - displayMS);

While this takes 8ms

      displayMS = millis();
      oledSetPosition(0, 7);
      for (uint8_t i = 0; i < dPower; i++) {
        oledWriteDataBlock(white, 1);
      }

      for (uint8_t i = 0; i < 128 - dPower; i++) {
        oledWriteDataBlock(black, 1);
      }
      Serial1.println(millis() - displayMS);

      displayMS = millis();
      oledSetPosition(0, 7);
      for (uint8_t i = 0; i < dPower; i++) {
        oledWriteDataBlock(white, 1);
      }

      for (uint8_t i = 0; i < 128 - dPower; i++) {
        oledWriteDataBlock(black, 1);
      }
      Serial1.println(millis() - displayMS);

Where black, white, teszt and teszt2 are

const unsigned char white[]{ 0x7e };
const unsigned char black[]{ 0x00 };


const unsigned char teszt[]{
  0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e,
  0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e
};
const unsigned char teszt2[] = { 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00,
                                 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00 };

const unsigned char white[]{ 0x7e };
const unsigned char black[]{ 0x00 };


const unsigned char teszt[]{
  0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e,
  0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e, 0x7e
};
const unsigned char teszt2[] = { 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00,
                                 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00 };

So I'll probably have to take the difference between the previous power value into account and only change the pixels that need to be changed but at that point, it might be easier to just use the old version that takes up space

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

so memcpy is what we write to the screen since it has the character while I2CWrite... well writes it?

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

Mhmm

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

How do we do that?

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

okay

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

Okay

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

The first one is 2ms, the second one is 6ms

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

Thanks a lot! Amazing how it worked the first time

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

Still great, many thanks

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

So this should mean that I need no backbuffer which means that 😄

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

Hope it doesn't break anything else. Now I can add so many things, especially some graphics

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

Would you like anything? Maybe a sleeping icon, freezing or fire?

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

Great idea, other brands have that (tilt switches) included but with these JBC tips the idea is that you always set it back in the holder which auto sleeps it. You don't do that with other irons since they take long to heat up but these can do it in an instant Adding a tilt switch could be easily done, I have the hardware support for that and/or an ID resistor for automatically detecting different handle types and adjusting the power

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

Thats already taken care of. The tip has a similar potential to GND and I have a pullup connected to the metal plate that holds the hot part of the tip

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

Thats kind of how the real station does it so I used that approach Only a single wire to connect to the holder I'll add some kind of connector to the case so the holder can be removed and the iron will work just as well without it's dedicated holder. More is that the original/Chinese clone stands can be used aswell with my unit

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

After calibrating the PID I ll have a more stable output power after reaching an equilibrium. If the equilibrium stays for x amount of time I know that the iron is not used Or just a timer that asks you to but back the iron into the holder or just touch the holder every half an hour https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006603327794.html One like this could be used @Icesythe7 @Taire Which connector does your unit use? The 6 hole one, right? From what I've found online its a Hirose RPC1 connector, for which I can't find male bases online, all but 1 site says that it is not manufactured anymore. If there is no better ideas I'll stick to the standard aviatory connectors I already have on it

KLeviOP•9mo ago

Currently:

Taire•9mo ago

the 6 pin jcb one

KLeviOP•9mo ago

So the one that isn't manufactured anymore...

Taire•9mo ago

hmm no its still made they come on all new handles still we got a station at work from jbc so not a receller and they still come with the 6pin once

KLeviOP•9mo ago

Ahh yes, what I meant is that they don't manufacture it for sale anymore (at least what those sites said). Perhaps JBC buys directly from a factory or they have a large stock

Taire•9mo ago

probbly direcly from factory

Taire•9mo ago

https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/automotive-connectors-new-and-original-CONN_1600735460487.html?spm=a2700.galleryofferlist.normal_offer.d_title.797b13a05gZQ7K

www.alibaba.com

Automotive Connectors New And Original Conn Rcpt Male 6p Silv Sldr ...

Automotive Connectors New And Original Conn Rcpt Male 6p Silv Sldr Cup Rpc1-12rb-6p(71) - Buy New And Original Rpc1-12rb-6p(71) conn Rcpt Male 6p Silv Sldr Cup Rpc1-12rb-6p(71) automotive Connectors Rpc1-12rb-6p(71) Product on Alibaba.com

Taire•9mo ago

was liiking forsomething else thought id just put in the connector you looking for and boom send em a msg to have em send some picstures so you can validate its the right one first but this should be it alibaba is a very powerfull place to source stuff like this always recommend looking there if you cant find it at a standard parts house

KLeviOP•9mo ago

Thanks 😄 I ve once ordered loadcells from Alibaba, forgot to look there. But at an 1$ price tag it's worth it to make it fully compatible with the original

Taire•9mo ago

yea like i said alibaba is like that place you only go when desperate atleast it is for me

KLeviOP•9mo ago

Ohh shoot. I pressed on inquiry and it did something like a global inquiry. Already got 13 messages xD

Taire•9mo ago

haha rip your email you should be able to remove it

KLeviOP•9mo ago

Actually, its useful. One place has the connectors gold plated Also one is made from EPDM while the others are nylon But maybe thats just an incorrect chatbot response

Taire•9mo ago

ahh always ask for pictures of the connector before purchace and if you only need a few just ask for a sample if theres a bigg moq afterwars jsut ghoastthe seller

KLeviOP•9mo ago

I told them its for a prototyping a product xD I'll buy like 15pcs

Taire•9mo ago

fair fa=ir

KLeviOP•9mo ago

By the way I just measured it and the board is consuming 14mA on the 5V rail So a simple voltage regulator should be able to take care of that even from 24V 19*14=0,266W

Taire•9mo ago

oh yea ez take a look at the ap63205wu-7 they lovely and small and cheap bout 3 buck for the entire reg

Taire•9mo ago

KLeviOP•9mo ago

What about just a linear regulator?

Taire•9mo ago

i mean you cna but 24v to 5v is quite a big step so alot of heat loss imo plus a very hot part witch has lower lifespan

KLeviOP•9mo ago

This much

Taire•9mo ago

find a datasheet of a liniar one and you can calculate how much loss personaly if the drop i need to do is more then say 1.5v i always pick switching regulators mostly for the heat aspect tho my boards are also alot more dense then the once you make

KLeviOP•9mo ago

yeah, my bottom layer only has the display and rotary encoder. No actual parts

Taire•9mo ago

id stear away from parts on the bottom jsut from a cost standpoint also cus its a bitch to assamble

KLeviOP•9mo ago

Oh okay.

KLeviOP•9mo ago

So this only looks dense because the components I used (0805) are big?

KLeviOP•9mo ago

The left side, I agree is not dense at all. Its only for long term usage heat dissipation To prevent heat build up

Taire•9mo ago

0603 is good enough for moststuff heck 0402 probbly is but thats just pain

KLeviOP•9mo ago

Some parts had to be 0805, like caps, mosfet switching resistor, input filter

Taire•9mo ago

ye ye

KLeviOP•9mo ago

But most were just cuz thats what I have

Taire•9mo ago

obiously but resistors are mostly fine with 0603

KLeviOP•9mo ago

Sleep delay Sleep temp 3 temp presets What does hibernation delay mean?

Taire•9mo ago

time that it goes to no heat sleep keeps it at some temp say 90 and if it doesnt get used after 2 minutes it turns heat of completely

KLeviOP•9mo ago

Okay so a value measured in minutes

Taire•9mo ago

yes sleep you enter once you put tool in holder and keeps tool warm ish so heatup time is slightly slower

KLeviOP•9mo ago

First time creating an array for a proper menu. 😄

KLeviOP•9mo ago

So how many settings do I need in total? 3x presets Offset Hibernation delay Sleep failsafe delay Sleep temp Tip type and auto tip detection

Taire•9mo ago

that looks like it

KLeviOP•9mo ago

Those might fit on a single page in a small font size 😄 But creating 2 pages shouldn't be a problem either

Taire•9mo ago

try not to go to small on fond size or make make it a rolling menue

KLeviOP•9mo ago

The one on the picture is the smallest I have Looks better IRL, the pixels blend nicely

KLeviOP•9mo ago

I took inspiration from my ender 3 haha

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

Hey @Icesythe7 . So I've added a real menu, and while messing with the data I discovered that the library supports a bunch of extra characters like hearts, smileys, arrows, etc.

KLeviOP•9mo ago

    
for (uint8_t i = 0; i < 8; i++) {
      if (selected == i) {
        bground = 1;
      } else {
        bground = 0;
      }
      sprintf(szTemp, "Nr: %d", i);
      oledWriteString(0, i, szTemp, 0, bground);
      oledWriteString(60, i, i, 0, bground);
}

    
for (uint8_t i = 0; i < 8; i++) {
      if (selected == i) {
        bground = 1;
      } else {
        bground = 0;
      }
      sprintf(szTemp, "Nr: %d", i);
      oledWriteString(0, i, szTemp, 0, bground);
      oledWriteString(60, i, i, 0, bground);
}

This is the code that produced that, just simple numbers from 0-7

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

Ohh ty. I forgot to ask my question, do you know how to decode the characters or how I could write out those special characters?

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

The bitmaps?

KLeviOP•9mo ago

message.txt

KLeviOP•9mo ago

Or the oledwritestring

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

OledWriteString.txt

KLeviOP•9mo ago

Ohh it isnt defined. It comes out when something is written but I don't really know what Somewhere in the font bitmap it should be there.... And I'm trying to find it

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

So its 3 characters Maybe hex could work?

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

Printing 0-7 But that was either glitching or scrolling trough it It seems like I found some of them. Smiley is 110, down arrow is 129, heart is 145. Some values didn't display anything

KLeviOP•9mo ago

It seems to do something with octals, since 0156 also displays a smiley. 0156 in octal is 110 in decimal I went down the rabbit hole of reading the docs and seeing how Adafruit GFX does it and found the solution

      sprintf(szTemp, "Character: %c", 0x0C);
      oledWriteString(0, 2, szTemp, 0, 0);

      sprintf(szTemp, "Character: %c", 0x0C);
      oledWriteString(0, 2, szTemp, 0, 0);

KLeviOP•9mo ago

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

And here is the character set

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

Let me see I can do printf by default using the current core

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

For serial

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

I undersand just thought that stardg was responsible for that, thats why I added it

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

got it

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

Worked like a CHARM! Thanks I'll have to take a look at how it works. And why you specify FONT_NORMAL why the other had me choose from 0,1 and 2

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

Ahh so you bypassed it basically

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

Understood

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

Yep, little late and my brain flipped it around, sorry I swear I'm not that dense 😂

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

ohh I'm not a good coder, I'm just trying to stay afloat. While I do like improving and learning new skills, I know that my coding skills are pretty rudimentary

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

Thanks for teaching me CP437 only seems to match up till some part of the code, probably only a fraction of it was included. Good enough for me. IDK what I will do with. Originally I was looking for a padlock 😄

KLeviOP•9mo ago

Current status, the texts have to aligned/centered

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

This isn't LCD, but yeah, the principal is same Looks very cool, unfortunately its using adafruit GFX, which I can't really afford to run in my program

KLeviOP•9mo ago

However, Sketch uses 27658 bytes (85%) of program storage space. Maximum is 32384 bytes. With nothing else in the sketch :/

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

It could be made to work but I don't really think that there is a need for animations

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

I could animate a loading thing or a fire character to indicate when it was heating but I already have the power bar for that

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

Only because I'm not using a 21.st century MCU

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

But what would you animate actually?

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

I still see no usecases for my project. Perhaps a whole new menu system Thats already done

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

But again, I will only use the menu like once a year xD

KLeviOP•9mo ago

The blinking is only because of the phone camera

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

But thats what the power bar currently looks like

Unknown User•9mo ago

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KLeviOP•9mo ago

@Taire added the presets, the sleep temp, nicely goes back to whatever value it previously had. Presets can be changed while in sleep, however it's currently forcing the sleep value so neither the sleep temp, or the working temp can be changed while in sleep mode. How is it on the real station?

KLeviOP•9mo ago

Also added more filtering to the Temp and power display, the temp is slightly affected by the sleep detection, a larger value pull-up resistor will be installed for that so it doesn't affect it (as much). Was thinking around maybe (currently 5k) 25-100k value. It's basically an unshielded floating button so its subject to noise. Any suggestions?

robherc•9mo ago

quality 3d printers preferentially use normally-closed switches for their endstops, with INPUT_PULLUP on the connected MCU pins. This way, any time it's not triggered, there is a low-impedence path to GND helping smash any noise before it can cause false triggering ... and when you trigger an endstop, it opens the circuit, but now you have the ~25k pullup resistor holding it to the positive rail.

KLeviOP•9mo ago

So by design I have a week pull-up connected to the "sleep detection" in the stand. Whenever I place the iron in it, it pulls it down

robherc•9mo ago

ok, why an external pullup? just use the builtin in the MCU

KLeviOP•9mo ago

I have an extra resistor in series. I wasn't comfortable connecting a high power heating elements part to the GPIO directly

robherc•9mo ago

good call so how exactly is the ESP getting a signal from the base on this circuit?

KLeviOP•9mo ago

The collar makes contact with the J5 labeled "SLEEP" What do you think? I know that its the same pin the thermocouple uses and such, which is not really great. But I can't change the design of the handles and probably JBC is using a similar technique. That's why I want to increase the resistance so it would probably doesn't affect the results at all. The other I had would use capacitive sensing WHILE the tip is not in its "measurement stage". But I haven't used that method previously and I'm not really sure about it

robherc•9mo ago

could send a pulse on the pin every second to detect if it's in the holder... i.e. pulse an output pin to a transistor that grounds it to 0v if it's in the holster, for 2ms every 1-2sec, and just throw out those "0 readings" from the temp averaging ringbuffer array

KLeviOP•9mo ago

So I would use 2 pins for that anyway. Grounding it could change the results as well. What do you think about pulling it up through a larger value resistor connected to a GPIO? I could either float it or set it to Low for the measurements

robherc•9mo ago

I mean, you would be grounding it for a millisecond or two, max, every short period of time...really just often enough to turn off the iron while holstered (so a 2-5sec. delay doesn't hurt much anything), and only long enough to check for continuity between the holster & the iron's ring; then the transistor gets "turned off" and doesn't affect the temperature readings until the next "scheduled check". This method doesn't cause any false temperature readings at all, as long as you simply don't check the temperature while checking to see if the iron is holstered.

KLeviOP•9mo ago

Ahh so the thermocouple amplifiers input would be pulled to ground essentially, so the temp measurement would be 0 if it's in the holder?

robherc•9mo ago

Yes, but only for 0.1% of the time ... the rest of the time it would still read normally. ... and suring that tiny time-fraction, you simply run blocking code for the holder-check, so it's impossible to end up with an invalid temperature-read.

KLeviOP•9mo ago

Ahh yeah, I understood that part, sorry for not wording my question correctly. Sounds like plan! Also this is amazing since the board already has the place for an N MOS. Added it for switching something like a fan but that isn't needed anyway Unfortunately that didn't work out as we were hoping it would. I tested the theory but the temp measurement only changed by some margin, but definitely not enough to get a signal out of it The idea was great, probably there is some resistance between the tip, the internals and the metal collar

robherc•9mo ago

maybe try N-Mos to P-Mos ladder to pull it up to VCC instead? (though be sure to check all your amplifiers & etc. to make sure VCC on the input won't damage anything).

KLeviOP•8mo ago

Sorry but I don't this would work. Too little resistance for that between GND and the thermocouple. Remember that its on basically ground potential and can be used to pull signals to LOW. I'd prefer another solution. Either 2 pins where one sends 5v pulses trough a resistor or just the current setup with a larger value resistor since right now it affects the temp readings by 10C. Around 3C would be acceptable by me. I could also compensate for some of the temp difference in code @Icesythe7 I bought an RP pico and started messing with the screen and such. I was thinking about ways to make the code more robust and etc. If you have some ideas, some improvements to add, I could use the RP2040 in the next PCB.

KLeviOP•8mo ago

Maybe a new screen so its easier to see? Only if others think its necessary. I personally belive that the small SSD1306 is enough for this application

KLeviOP•8mo ago

Or another suggestion was touchscreens. Haven't really decided if I like the idea or not

robherc•8mo ago

huh? I was talking about high-side switching. ...ehh, that, or I forget what I was thinking then...lol.

KLeviOP•8mo ago

We were talking about tip detection and pulling the tip low / high to read with the thermocouple IIRC Through the holder ofc

robherc•8mo ago

ahh, for making a major swing in the temp. reading for the base to know to depower the tip, that's right.

Unknown User•8mo ago

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robherc•8mo ago

but yes, I think pulling your millivolt-level signal.up to anything over 1V would count as being pretty easily detectable 😂 ...unless the extra power just ran the thermocouple as a heat-pump...that wouldn't help anything.

Unknown User•8mo ago

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KLeviOP•8mo ago

Anyway, the problem was fixed just by increasing the pullup resistors value 😄 I feel like that in a soldering station where you are working with all kinds of materials, I wouldn't want to use a touch screen

Unknown User•8mo ago

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KLeviOP•8mo ago

Flux, alcohol, grime from old electronics. Stuff like that just kind of gets on your hand sometimes A heat-pump as in... like a heating element?

robherc•8mo ago

yes, like a peltier module, thermocouples can be used to inefficiently move heat with electricity.

KLeviOP•8mo ago

OoooO. Didn't know about that

robherc•8mo ago

most electrical stuff can work when role-reversed: * Receive antennae 99% of the time are just as good as transmit antennae. * 99.9% of electric motors can function as generators (only aware of a single exception) * speakers work as microphones * thermocouples & peltiers both work as either temperature sensors/ *heat generators" or heat-pumps. * Piezoelectric crystals release electric power when manually flexed, or can be flexed by applying electric power.

KLeviOP•8mo ago

I knew all about those except for the thermocouples and peltiers. I have never looked into peltiers, only know the basic idea. Didn't know it used the same effect. I will 100% look into it sometimes Some receive antennas are illegal for transmitting with because of gain and such tho xD What do you think about the screen dilemma? What size/kind of screen would you prefer on a station? I feel like with the touchscreen I could really stand out from all the different soldering stations if I wanted to make a product of this in the future but I also feel like it would add unnecessary complexity and settings are something you only change... Maybe every year or so thanks to the stored modifiable 'presets'. Checking the temp is also not really something because you just know its as much as you set it immediately.

Taire•8mo ago

2.4 inch tft

robherc•8mo ago

My Hakko was a 2-character 7-segment LED display. Sometimes it'd be nice if it could have an LCD with room for a full word instead of a weird 2-"symbol" code, but I haven't ever wished it had a 4" (10cm) full-color touch TFT or anything. I think, on "work stuff" especially, I very much prefer tactile controls over touchscreen. ... If you're working with it enough, tactile controls can become intuitive without having to take your eyes off of the work. Meanwhile a touchscreen pretty much never can.

PenPengu•8mo ago

(I wish my Ersa had a scroll wheel instead of buttons for + and -)

KLeviOP•8mo ago

Rotary encoder ✅ Noted. Thanks for the input to all of you! I personally prefer using tactile input, but you know, innovation and such xD. Right now I'm leaning towards just adding breakout pins for the screen so it could be added in the future while keeping the little OLED and encoder But I will def buy the slightly larger version. 0.96" vs 1.3"

PenPengu•8mo ago

My completely unasked for thoughts about soldering station UI: My ersa has an SD card slot and to change some settings you need to take an SD-card, plug it into a windows PC, run their ersa program and then plug it back into the station. Whoever thought of that seriously had a few beer too much. I actually like the feature a bit, you could quickly set up 20 stations with the same settings with one sd card. And you can use the sd cards as "password lock" to lock settings. But it's totally stupid that there are settings that can be changed only using the sd card. I think I would actually like a touch screen for "advanced" settings that you only change from time to time. For setting up calibration, password lock, agressive/medium/low heating, stuff like that. A large screen could show the temperature in large letters and have an obvious way to show if it's still heating up (like heating up => white letters on black, ready to solder => black letters on white or something like that). I think showing a graph of the temperature could be neat. But temperature adjusting, switching presets, entering/leaving sleep mode should definitely be tactile buttons or better a rotary encoder!

KLeviOP•8mo ago

This process has been slightly refined but this is how it works @PenPengu right now

PenPengu•8mo ago

looks like a really neat ui 👍 Way better than 7-segment codes. And a larger screen than that tiny thing on like pinecil

KLeviOP•8mo ago

Double clicking takes you to the settings menu. Setting up 20 stations could be done by writing to the EEPROM via the SPI pins if thats the need but this isn't really a factory spec unit Thanks for the positive input :D. So you'd say its alright?

PenPengu•8mo ago

reminds me a bit of my rc radio 🤔 is that "loading bar" at the bottom an indicator about how much power it is using right now?

KLeviOP•8mo ago

@PenPengu And would you rather have the encoder on the right or left side of the screen? Both have some advantages. Also about cables and connectors, what are your preferences? I didn't really copy anything. I just started with 2 big elements, temp and set temp and kept adding stuff Exactly. It displays the PWM output in regards to the kind of tip connected. Icesythe helped with optimizing that

PenPengu•8mo ago

I think left or right of the screen could depend on if the soldering station is on the left or right of my desk and which hand I use to scroll 🤔 I think I would just put the encoder below the screen. Then no matter which hand you use and where the station is you never cover the screen up

KLeviOP•8mo ago

Below the screen is kind of hard to reach as its close the desk or the surface its on. Also I tried to fit the PCB into a standard size (100x50mm)

PenPengu•8mo ago

I'm just trying to visualize it. Left hand scrolling and encoder to the right of the screen or right hand scrolling and encoder to the left of the screen => hand could cover up the screen.

PenPengu•8mo ago

that's my station

PenPengu•8mo ago

fair enough. Just thinking... what if you rotate the pcb so it stands vertical? kinda like my station?

KLeviOP•8mo ago

And I don't really want a bigger than needed case, as it could be used as a mobile unit connected to a 12V battery, a laptop charger and such. Note to myself: adding USB PD support xP

PenPengu•8mo ago

(But my station stands up without falling over because it contains a really heavy transformer)

KLeviOP•8mo ago

hmm

PenPengu•8mo ago

~~voice control~~

KLeviOP•8mo ago

AI powered soldering station

robherc•8mo ago

I'll second that

KLeviOP•8mo ago

Standing station?

robherc•8mo ago

the knob centered below the screen, if possible. ... best ambidextrous solution.

PenPengu•8mo ago

just throwing more ideas out here: Scroll wheel instead of "normal" rotary encoder below the screen 🤔 (The one on this particular charger felt kinda cheap and sometimes needs to be cleaned but there should be higher quality options available. Maybe just a mouse scroll wheel)

KLeviOP•8mo ago

I was thinking about knobs like this. Easy to install. We can also see the standing layout 😄

KLeviOP•8mo ago

I think this is useful for this kind of portable enviroment. While it would look great for temp adjustment, I wouldn't want to force users to go trough the menues with just a mouse's scroll wheel but thanks for the idea :D. Might come handy in the future for a different version / something else

PenPengu•8mo ago

Imho the mouse scroll wheel works great for menus. You can also push it in to "enter" I wonder if with this triangle standing up design you could: - make the stand foldable, like the nintendo switch so it's still really small and portable - or use the space in the stand for something like brass sponge and soldering tip storage

KLeviOP•8mo ago

Well, right now I have a big inductor which is supposed to act as a choke and an 1000uF cap on the backside, so apart from that it could be used for anything. The holes on the side are for inserting the metal support element and the slot on the top is for inserting an appropriately sized washer that grabs the collar of the iron. Brass and sponge holder underneath

KLeviOP•8mo ago

The washer (and the support rod could as well) is connected to the sleep mode sensing pin on the PCB. The iron turns off and on automatically when you place it in the stand

PenPengu•8mo ago

Very cool

KLeviOP•8mo ago

Just showing it in case someone might have ideas. Any kind of input is appreciated 🙂

robherc•8mo ago

I've noticed a few stations seem to have a "dedicated depression" in the sponge-holder area to hold a bit of water for keeping the sponge moist, without it being able to wet & corrode the brass brillo.

KLeviOP•8mo ago

I do plan on depressing the spong area because it just kind of falls out right now. But wouldn't the spong sitting in/over water make it too damp? And could cause thermal schocks? Or it would need to be in a way that it can't suck up that much

robherc•8mo ago

My hakko had 2 small, maybe 15mm long, 7mm max width, crescents that you pull out of the sponge & set underneath to wick just a bit of the water up into the main sponge, which is sitting up on offsets.

KLeviOP•8mo ago

Hmm. I don't know. I honestly never use the sponge. Too much hassle when I just have the brass wool in place. Gets it perfectly clean every time

KLeviOP•8mo ago

But I will think about that. Kind of like this?

Unknown User•8mo ago

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PenPengu•8mo ago

idea if it's supposed to be portable: Add a lid to the brass sponge cave

Unknown User•8mo ago

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PenPengu•8mo ago

the "2m ago" is the latest activity in the thread I think

Unknown User•8mo ago

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PenPengu•8mo ago

but for me it says ">30 days ago" 🤔

KLeviOP•8mo ago

I did help a guy the other day along with Anon. We racked up around 500msg in a single evening 😂

PenPengu•8mo ago

Afaik this neverending vending machine still holds the record

KLeviOP•8mo ago

Great idea! The brass wouldn't fall out but everything would be covered in bits of solder around it without a cover. It's also detachable by the way

PenPengu•8mo ago

exactly

KLeviOP•8mo ago

Like the holder has a connector that I haven't really decided about. I bought some 'DC jacks' but I only need a single wire. I plan on adding some kind of rails on the side of the station so they could be slid together to form a single unit or be separated

robherc•8mo ago

exactly like that...the two crescents from the sponge make the wicks

KLeviOP•8mo ago

If that's a preference, wouldn't be hard to 3D printed. Least our improvements are paying off 😄

KLeviOP•8mo ago

Dang that's a few more cables than expected for the C210

KLeviOP•8mo ago

(the other one only has 3)

KLeviOP•8mo ago

Ohh wait nevermind. Just a jumper that they made red for extra confusion 🙂

KLeviOP•8mo ago

@ACE ALIEN What are we thinking? Almost 10x10cm working area

KLeviOP•8mo ago

6400mm of 1oz 1.2mm trace ~2.5Ohms at 20C. Comparable to the tip

robherc•8mo ago

trying the old PCB reflow hotplate gag?

KLeviOP•8mo ago

Why old and why gag?

robherc•8mo ago

old because it's been done, a LOT. Gag because the GT temp. of the board is too low, so it's likely to be a fairly short-lived "solution." (unfortunately) (note: I spent several months trying to come up with a better hobbiest-available solution maybe a year ago, before AliExpress started selling better than what I was designing for under $50USD)

KLeviOP•8mo ago

I didn't really look into the topic, just wanted to see how much wire/resistance/power could I possible produce for a usable size. AAlien had an idea if I could connect a "hotplate module" to the station so I started looking for hotplates with similar characteristics as my tips have and couldn't find one

robherc•8mo ago

I was looking into using induction-coils on a pcb to non-contact heat a ferromagnetic plate embedded in ceramic for the heating, in order to avoid the problems from overcooking the pcb being used as a heater (damaging both the FR4 & melting off anything soldered to the board).

KLeviOP•8mo ago

Well, the desoldering part I was looking to solve with thermal relief cuts and not using too many components

robherc•8mo ago

...Honestly, though, just using 2 AL plates with a thin Cu plate sandwiched between them will prob. even out the heat from a few ceramic-encased kanthal coils, tbf.

KLeviOP•8mo ago

What about using aluminium PCBs straight?

robherc•8mo ago

idk...when I looked into it at PCBWay/JLCpcb, it was too expensive to be really worth my while... Especially with as thin as those are, so another, thicker Al plate would really still need added.

KLeviOP•8mo ago

It wasn't that bad when I looked at it

robherc•8mo ago

well, considering how little the big hotplate I bought from aliexpress cost.....

KLeviOP•8mo ago

That wouldn't be that big of a problem

robherc•8mo ago

https://a.aliexpress.com/_mrtcKWJ

KLeviOP•8mo ago

robherc•8mo ago

I mean, add it to your station if it's a benefit to you to have it "all in one"...heck, the base of this thing has PLENTY of unused space to put all of your electronics inside. ...Just keep in mind the relative pricing of alternatives is all I wanted to say 😉 mine jumped up to like $75 plus S&H ... and the hotplate I linked is like 200x200mm (so as big as 4 of those)

KLeviOP•8mo ago

I only started 'working' on the idea because I thought that the station had all the electronics for running this

Unknown User•8mo ago

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KLeviOP•8mo ago

Thats right, since I already made my own 2000W completely free hotplate I don't really need another one. A portable one would be great but, yeah. Might abondon the idea for now

robherc•8mo ago

yeah, like I said, I don't have any problem with you choosing to make it. Just trying to "play devil's advocate" and bring up some of the arguments that get missed in the excitement of the moment.

KLeviOP•8mo ago

And I appreciate that. It was just an idea afterall that I tried to bring to life in a budget way. It might not possible/worth it

Taire•8mo ago

make em out or rogers, or ptfe board they should be able to handle the temp better that is a expensive option but they should be able to reach the 230 ish C needed to melp most paste especialy the seremic kinds tho it brings its own chalenges

robherc•8mo ago

yeah, just when cost is a driving factor, switching to Rogers makes eyes pop out soo far they have to be retrieved from the floor manually! 🤣

KLeviOP•8mo ago

Went instantly from ~2for FR4 and 4 for Al to 90$ 😂

robherc•8mo ago

I was using higher dimensions last I checked...wanted big enough to cook my full-size 100x150 boards on... was a few $hundred, lol

Taire•8mo ago

haha

KLeviOP•7mo ago

Do you guys know if backfeeding can occur with the AP63205? The datasheets didn't really mention all that much. I plan on having accepting USB power for programming @Taire @KD

Taire•7mo ago

define back feeding

KLeviOP•7mo ago

Injecting 5V on the output, while there is no input voltage I'm dumb, I could just place a diode on the input I think to prevent the whole problem 😂

Taire•7mo ago

this is what I always do, but I honestly don't know if it would back feed I'll post a pick of how I usually set it up if I got multiple voltage rails

KLeviOP•7mo ago

The circled part are just indicating LEDs. You might be right that the small cap shouldn't really be there

robherc•7mo ago

or use a P-MOSFET as an ideal diode, same as the one on the UNO that we discussed yesterday (I think that was yesterday, at least) plz tell me those parts aren't quite that tightly packed in your final layout?

KLeviOP•7mo ago

That was one of my concerns 😄

robherc•7mo ago

(gotta give yourself @ least 0.5mm for tweezer tips) lmao

KLeviOP•7mo ago

I could but the lowest input I'll ever be expecting is 9V. So wasting that 0.5V is not an issue

robherc•7mo ago

I found it easier to get my alignments right by going into properties & delete everything after the decimal on both x & y coords for each part... THEN I set grid to 0.5mm with "snap to grid" & was able to get FAR cleaner alignments between parts!

KLeviOP•7mo ago

The purple highlight might make it look slightly worse than it is. It expands the part area quite significantly I need to delete the decimal cords first, otherwise it keeps them even when snapping to grid?

robherc•7mo ago

I didn't realize that myself, until about 2 days ago when I discovered that while re-doing my full layout & trying tti get all of the header pins lined up on a 2.54mm grid, so I can "use the breadboard trick" to get them all soldered in straight. you would think "snap to grid" would snap the x/y absolute coords of the part to the grid, but kicad just snaps the "moved distance" of parts you move to the grid instead 🤦‍♂️

KLeviOP•7mo ago

Ohh my. That explains some things!

robherc•7mo ago

doesn't it, though? ... that's what I thought when I finally realized what was happening, too!

KLeviOP•7mo ago

So you suggest a 0.5mm gap to be the minimum between component outlines?

robherc•7mo ago

that's what I used on my design I showed you in #voice-text just checked on my old board & a few 0402 caps' outlines had been ~0.35mm apart...I remember those having been a bit "uncomfortable" to get placed & aligned when placing parts on that board.

KLeviOP•7mo ago

On that new board they are 0603 and some 0402 as well, right?

robherc•7mo ago

yeah, same components, except added a few more 0603 resistors for pulldowns on the unused GPIO pins (ignoring the new DAC chip that was added & the swaps on the main MCU chip & ADC chip, ofc) oh, and the new adc wanted 7 more new 0603 resistors on its lines connecting it to its MCU, per datasheet.

Taire•7mo ago

this is doable twith tweasers and it keeps the switching loops small

robherc•7mo ago

I was only really suggesting keeping an 0.5mm "buffer zone" outside of the fab-layer outlines. ... just enough to make the tiniest flinch with the tweezers NOT shove 3 other parts off their solder (have done...isn't enjoyable) 😂

KLeviOP•7mo ago

When soldering up a board, I place the parts as usual with the tweezers while it's cold. Then when I heat it up for soldering I just poke on the components if needed. Rework on the other hand... that sucks. Especially if THT parts are involved

robherc•7mo ago

oh, I meant when placing them into the paste-blobs you may not have as many involuntary twitches & shakes yet, but trust me, the time is coming...... lol

KLeviOP•7mo ago

I can take as long as I want for that :P. My hand sometimes twitches tho, especially when I'm concentrating hard But you know, there is even a traditional cure for that haha

KLeviOP•7mo ago

How would you deal with these big connectors? The 2x3 is for setting it into BOOT modes (could use DIP switches) The 2x5 are programming pins, those are my main "conecrns"

KLeviOP•7mo ago

1.27mm pitch it seems like

Taire•7mo ago

this or look at tag connect connectors they are small and super convenient for programming

robherc•7mo ago

1.27?!? your dupont connectors are all 2.54 but yeah, for dfu modes pushbutton or dip switch is valid, or a "muli-position jumper" like I use to connect one of 2 GPIO pins to GND with a 3-pin header for my "DAC" range-setting jumper on my board.

KLeviOP•7mo ago

But using 1.27mm pins an connectors could reduce the size. Especiall now if I add some more programming options 😛 😄 I looked at it, but that seems a little above my paygrade. Also if I ever needed to use these pins for debugging, then I have to hold it there, right?

Taire•7mo ago

yes correct

robherc•7mo ago

Back-side "test points" & a custom pogo-pin equipped "programming dock" FTW! 😂

KLeviOP•7mo ago

Ohh right, with pogo pins I can just use the backside!

robherc•7mo ago

they should be called "Butt Pins" for that very reason...lmao

KLeviOP•7mo ago

I'll think about this between the 1.27mm headers. Paired with one of these as my programmer connector

robherc•7mo ago

fpc?

KLeviOP•7mo ago

Heck no

robherc•7mo ago

takes up almost 0 space 😂 ...or go all ATARII with board-edge "fingers"

KLeviOP•7mo ago

12 pin FPC in comparison

KLeviOP•7mo ago

Came to my mind but went over right then

robherc•7mo ago

I mean the high-density FPCs, where 40+ pins fit that footprint 🤣

KLeviOP•7mo ago

Not for me. We'll see how the design and layout goes and choose accordingly But I'd rather have copper traces for heat dissipiation rather than some random connectors haha

robherc•7mo ago

RJ45? hahaha

KLeviOP•7mo ago

Too few pins

robherc•7mo ago

DB25 has enough 😛 oooh...or an old SCSI port!!! 🙈 DVI?

KLeviOP•7mo ago

1.27mm headers will be fine... hopefully. Won't have much space for silkscreening even if it fits lol

robherc•7mo ago

hell, you saw my silk, lol...2/3 of the resistor & cap #s are on the back, because no room.

KLeviOP•7mo ago

And this is even worse xD

Taire•7mo ago

hell yea then you truly wanna end it all hdmi tho make sure you got some 24v pins in there imagine putting numbers there to begin with just put them. on the assembly layer and then print that much cleaner

KLeviOP•7mo ago

What migth RS mean for this SPI based screen?

KLeviOP•7mo ago

The other screens have something like DC or data command that might be that pin

robherc•7mo ago

lol, I COULD use copper instead of silk 🤣 (I've actually seen boards where they put their documentation in a copper layer, lol)

KLeviOP•7mo ago

Not documentation, but I've seen it. Looked cool. Almost forgot about that

KLeviOP•7mo ago

How do you draw up footprints so it all snaps to the right place? I used those lines and set their lengths to keep the dimensions. (too bad that had no data pins xD)

KLeviOP•7mo ago

I have 4 of these drive circuits, if I lay one out, how can I copy the layout to the other components?

KLeviOP•7mo ago

Do you like teardrops?

robherc•7mo ago

Mader was telling me about how he organizes a lot of his sub-layouts into "modules" and drops them into his layouts that way. on the tht-pad yes, but I expect that resistor might be an absolute BEAST to keep aligned with all that odd-angled copper wicking the solder-blob around. ...how did you set those up like that?

KLeviOP•7mo ago

Don't look at the odd angles, this is just a very crude layout. Still trying to find out where all the different sections could go. Also mask 😄 Select pad -> properties -> connections (second tab) -> Enable teardrop, max width and length reduced, enabled rounded edges I'm going to need to ask Dash about that. Nvm, just remember he is not on KiCad Would be nice if they could be mm accurate copies of eachother

MaderDash•7mo ago

I make my own modules

KLeviOP•7mo ago

Is the PCB layout saved and inserted as well?

MaderDash•7mo ago

it can be yes

KLeviOP•7mo ago

Would you advise me doing that? Unfortunately I cannot join voice, when I'm going to school in your time zones

MaderDash•7mo ago

its just something you kinda learn, and as far as I know kicad does not do it nativly.

KLeviOP•7mo ago

Thanks, seems like there are some workarounds to do this in KiCad, I'll need to look into it

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