First Raw Denim: Hiroshi Kato stretch or 3sixteen?
Kato - The Hammer Straight - Lauryn 14oz Selvedge
3sixteen - CS-100xk Classic Straight - Rinsed Indigo Kibata
I am between these two pairs and not sure what to pick. I've not worn standard denim in a long time - up until now, I've mostly worn Banana Republic's stretch jeans, stretch chinos, or Lulu warpstream fabric pants. The Kato's got my attention because of their stretch, but I wonder how big of a difference it actually makes in mobility compared to broken-in 100% cotton. FWIW, I'm an athletic build at 6'4" 185lbs (very long femurs).
What do you think?
52 Replies
The small amount of stretch wont be crazy noticeable imo and i think the 3sixteen pair looks better but for me the biggest game changer for raw denim being comfy was going wider and higher rise, the extra room in the top block makes it feel a lot less restricting personally.
I cannot recommend a wider pair more
outside of even style, which I think is also better
something like the 3sixteen relaxed is probably going to be more comfortable and imo look better, the room to move is really what matters here
or orslow super dad
or oni 222 super wide
neither of those pants are actually really wide, they fit straight and roomy and look fantastic
if you're really stuck on straight/more slim, I think Levis 501 is the best bet
Ah very cool. I'm definitely leaning towards a looser fit, just couldn't quite tell if the wider cuts would start to look overly baggy.
any of these three wont be even close to baggy, for denim to look really it big its gotta be pretty massive
here is the super dad

and the oni 222 super wide

the 3sixteen pairs run a little slimmer than these two
but also i think the denim on these are cooler
I'm more of a fan of the onis just because the denim itself is completely insane
but I slightly prefer the cut of the orslows
Haha, I like the drape of the oni's in that pic and others I'm finding. To me, the orslows are bordering on baggy
i dont think they are but also if you are used to slim pants theres a bit of getting used to it for sure
the onis are a great pair
the only difference in looking baggy is that they're slightly stacking I think
yeah thats more on cuff/hem than cut




maybe this can shift your overton window on baggy pants
the ones recommended arent anywhere close to this 😉
and these can all look good
WDYT of the kato barrel cut?
maybe a bit more taper than I prefer but pretty good middle ground
yeah I think they are a fine middle ground, for the money id rather the cut from orslow or the really crazy fabrics from oni personally
🙏
I like the onis a lot, seem hard to find atm
Not in a rush tho so might wait
https://taigatakahashi.com/products/lot-704-denim-trousers-c-1920s-core/
these are also crazy good
let me see if I can find a fit pic



worth noting that they have a pretty high rise
https://www.blueowl.us/collections/oni-denim/products/222ccd-golv-crushed-concrete-x-grey-olive-weft-15oz-selvedge-denim-super-wide-straight-fit?variant=40876255739962 most sizes onis best denim imo
https://redcastheritage.com/products/oni-denim-oni-222-low-tension-15oz-super-wide-straight-jeans few bigger sizes
https://sonofastag.com/products/oni-222-15oz-loose-straight-jean-one-wash?variant=45807664005424 33?? your in luck
https://www.denimio.com/en_US/ONI222CCDGOLV.html?acgid=oni-denim cheaper b/c japan
damn that crushed concrete denim does something to me
they're making magic denim over there I swear
yeah its the best denim oni ever did
https://hinoya.shop/en-us/products/oni-222ccd-moc?variant=46454951674091
Found this one too, I think I'm a 32... need to measure lol
yeah make sure to measure
that one has a brown weft btw
not that thats a bad thing, just worth noting
i've owned that exact denim and its gorgeous
yeah be sure to get waist and then check against the product measurements sometimes the numbers size is pretty off. should be 1 wash already so it wont shrink that much but there will still be a little
i also forgot hinoya ships to the us
Thanks for the help fellas! I'll probably snag a pair of these oni's next week.
Woulda never found 'em without ya
These are great hell yeah
I also just got a pair of Oni 222s, it’s an excellent cut
that top one is so cool...
does that concrete denim shrink?
the jeans are all one wash so they do the shrinking for you
it will probably lose a little more but not much
unless you like blast it in hot water
but
thats on you
wasn't the plan
dont have that denim but my raws have never lost a full size first wash just sometimes a tad bit more snug after a wash
That site specifically has some sizes that are running out, but I know this company has been around for a long time, would you say that its reasonable to expect these jeans to still be around / be restocked for a long time?
they do lose a bit of length done ever hem raws before first wash
Not joking about how much I love those but I don't forsee spending that much on jeans for a while.... gonna have to be one more hypothetical distant future purchase
oni will keep making this cut for sure in this denim who knows when it comes back, its a pretty staple one for them they will keep making it you just may end up waiting on a restock
okok
its not like a one off run
its going in the google doc
I'll stop commandeering this q and a thank you for the info
Super Dads are pretty wide. They aren’t balloon pants but they’re much wider than that picture.
I noticed they just came out with a couple more denim options in the super wide. The crushed concrete denim looks really interesting
:caught: so i did lie a bit
they probably wont do the exact same but its likly they do more of the crushed concrete but with diff color weft yarns so slightly different color
Yeah not the end of the world
If it was some kind of limited one off run I might have done something impulsive
this exact color is but yeah they will do other runs of the crushed concrete for sure. and other cool stuff oni puts out some of the most interesting fabrics of any denim maker
Studio is second but they refuse to do it in a good cut of pants
I am afraid cut is priority for me
yeah as it should be
:xd: coming from someone that owns really cool denim in an unwearable cut for me now