Explaining how Lemaire trousers are cut
I apologize in advance, this may be poorly worded.
What causes Lemaire trousers to hang/drape like this?
https://www.lemaire.fr/products/maxi-pleated-pants-men-bk980-charcoal-lf1352-compact-cotton-twill
I know the inseam is tailored , the break affects the drape, but there's more to it than that ( I think).
Look at how the trousers float away from his body around the hips and thighs, then drape straight down. They don't collapse in on themselves or fold, they pretty much just hang down.
I'm looking for more brands with this style, but I don't know what I'm looking for basically. With their twisted seams, I understand why they have the shape that they do, the seam is bent and causes the legs to follow a certain shape. But the seam here is straight, and it's like something is pushing the fabric away from his body. I know part of that is because it's a staged professional shoot, but the trousers look similar when posters here wear them too.
Also, if anyone has recommendations for brands that are cut like Lemaire but cheaper, I'd love to hear them. The Ssense sale is great but they don't have my size for some of the pieces.
LEMAIRE
Charcoal Maxi Pleated Pants
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69 Replies
as you noted there are factors like break, but this is mostly in the cut of the fabrics and to a degree the choice of material
this particular pair of pants is aided by a very narrow waist and wider hips
Heavier materials will tend to hang like this, or trousers with cuffs as the weight pulls them straight. The width helps as well
some of the cuts that do this best are what are called barrel and balloon shapes
some sort of budget is helpful as well, as 'cheaper than lemaire' can still be 'way too expensive'. https://debonnefacture.fr/collections/trousers-shorts these all have a similar drape
also similar https://www.studionicholson.com/collections/trousers, https://mfpen.com/collections/trousers
brands not yet mentioned:
Aidama straight cuts
Estudio Niksen (not to be confused with the above studio nicholson)
Poolhouse NY
Some Uniqlo and Muji
Needles
Some EG mostly their wider cuts
More extreme on the balloon end (wider than this):
Aidama balloon cuts
Anglan
Harvesty
not everything from the above brands matches what you want, but they all produce things in this area
Lemaire's cuts are special imo
Agree with the others above and they beat me to a few recs as well
I would add Man-tle has some nice barrel-y pants that can be found secondhand for a good price
Lemaire secondhand can definitely get to the range of $200-300 for a pair of trousers very regularly.
Vintage armani has great cuts that I think flow similarly
Uniqlo U also has trousers that are literally cut based on lemaire pieces, where you can overlay the two and it's a near identical match. They cut corners elsewhere and the pieces don't feel as special, but the basic silhouette is there
UNIQLO
Wide Fit Chino Pants | Tall | UNIQLO US
Shop mens Wide Fit Chino Pants | Tall at UNIQLO US. Read customer reviews, explore styling ideas, and more.
also this is a comprehensive barrel balloon image drop the first half of which is product photos that you can reverse image search for their original reference from the brands i mentioned above
from a previous qna
although its focused on wider balloon legs mostly
you can also get some of this effect through generally cinching the waist of otherwise wider pants if you really want to do this on a budget
buy a size or two up and then belt it down to your size
which is a little less elegant than that
Thank you all for the recs, I'll be digging deep into them tonight
Regarding balloon and barrel pants, I thought barrel tapered in at the hem, do I have that right?
Budget wise I don't mind spending up to $400 on a pair of trousers, anything more than that and I have to be really sure that they'll work for me
yes barrel and balloon cuts taper in at the hem, but it wasnt entirely clear whether or not you wanted a taper at the hem since some lemaire pants in similar styles stay straight
Is anyone familiar with Le Labourer Largeot trousers? They're described as balloon trousers, they seem to have a similar shape (high waist, plenty of volume in the legs) as some Lemaire cuts, but in a rougher workwear style
I'd like to play around with wider hems, not looking for a heavy taper
I'll just add, I have several pairs of lemaire trousers and have paid more than $400 for them a single time
There are other companies that are worth looking at that make great pants in a similar style
But you also may be overestimating how out of reach these are too
ive seen them in person in store in paris. the largeot is a great cut and pretty inexpensive to try if you live in a place where you can buy them
in the exact cover photo as well hands in pockets is litteraly pushing it away from his body
Yeah there is often some kind of positioning ppl do with these pants
Tugging at the sides or something to exaggerate it
this too. oman and I know welll the difference between having your hands in your pockets and the natural fall of some of these pants
with rigid pants sometimes you can get them to stand out like this
but often times they fall more like this
with less rigid fabrics they almost always fall like the second photo
without your hands in the pockets
That makes more sense, it's not like the pants have any built in structure, it's just a staged photo
Damn, some of the magic is gone now lmao
another A-B example
same exact pants shot by dif company
they have structure for sure
Ok that still looks good in either pose though
its a cotton twill
so it wont drape like wool
it holds shape
some of the crazy rigid materials also fold like this which can be its own form of good
see oman/carrion fit pics for drapier fabrics in similar cuts
That still looks good to me,clearly I just have to get a pair cut like this and try it for myself
definitely do it
you should ask @mike what these are
and by ask mike, I mean I just pinged him haha
:xd: 12 billion dollar
those are ek two pleats
oh how could we forget recommending the EK 2 Pleats
goated pant
i mean they are great pants but yeah pretty on par with lemaire in price
ek 2-pleats are great but they are very lightly tailored compared to the original post, which looks much more suiting-adjacent to me. but yeah, i think fabric plays a very important role in the drape
vintage armani and Y's for Men (yohji's basics line) are a good way to get that kind of drape/shape/pleating
i was going to make an example of fabric and shape with your post and two of mine, all three of these are the same cut of pants (ek 2p) but in dif fabrics with varying levels of structure and drape
those are great. the secondhand market for EK stuff is pretty large, so im sure some 2-pleats are floating around for a decent price
also true secondhand lemaire and EK are out there, tho lemaire gets faked a decent bit so learn tags and stuff or post here.
i have my fair share of criticisms about EK, but i do feel like the two-pleat cut is extremely well executed. others have also mentioned some great options too that i wanna explore myself
this is the same lemaire cut?
:xdcrying: 🤝
should be
those are great, damn
yeah the maxi pants are goodhttps://www.lemaire.fr/products/belted-relaxed-pants-women-bk991-asphalt-lf1308-dry-silk?currency=usd&gQT=1
LEMAIRE
Asphalt Belted Relaxed Pants
Discover our Asphalt Belted Relaxed Pants. Explore the entire LEMAIRE wardrobe on our official website. Free worldwide standard shipping and returns.
the silk version goes extremely hard
ooo the "dark espresso" color
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THE RERACS Royal Buff Cloth Wide Ballel Pants GUNMETAL GRAY
36,850円(税込)
コットンを高密度で織り上げた、オリジナル素材ロイヤルバフクロスを使用したワイドバレルパンツ。腰回りにゆとりを持たせ、ヒップから裾にかけてやや丸みのあるデザインとなっており、素材の...
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i cant actually attest to the quality of these, because i havent tried them out. but if youre able to track them down/proxy, these seemed really cool to me. saw this post the other day. the brand is legit, i just dont own these pants myself
I love how vintage Armani suits were cut from the late 80s to early 90s, they looked beautiful but I have no idea how the find garments specifically from that era
eBay has plenty of old Armani but seeing the items flat doesn't really show you how they'll fit, I don't know if I'm buying from the right time frame
Both of these look great, the left fit is exactly what I'm trying to get
I'm starting to nose around on buyee.jp, maybe I'll find something there
oh yeah, tons of great stuff to be found! good luck haha, its a rabbithole forsure
@mike @oman121 @Shrimpy I found a few pair of Lemaire trousers on Grailed, does anyone own these models?
https://www.grailed.com/listings/74031108-lemaire-straight-leg-canvas-pants?g_aidx=Listing_by_listing_quality_production&g_aqid=6d6063ddbbd1053adb0dd1823f3a4bd8
https://www.grailed.com/listings/78475228-lemaire-brand-new-belted-cotton-pants-size-52?g_aidx=Listing_by_listing_quality_production&g_aqid=6d6063ddbbd1053adb0dd1823f3a4bd8
https://www.grailed.com/listings/58455995-lemaire-last-size-lemaire-men-s-cotton-pants-52?g_aidx=Listing_by_listing_quality_production&g_aqid=766ae29c850384ef1e4816fd9aba26e0
I've started digging into the other brands listed, I'm running into an issue of inseam length for some of them. I've got a 32 inch inseam, I can do 30 inches but any shorter than that and they become a little too cropped for my person taste, but I'll keep looking
Grailed
Lemaire Straight-leg canvas pants | Grailed
Searching for Straight-leg canvas pants? We’ve got Lemaire Men's Bottoms starting at $300 and plenty of other Men's Bottoms. Shop our selection of Lemaire today!
Grailed
Lemaire Brand new belted cotton pants size 52 | Grailed
Searching for Brand new belted cotton pants size 52? We’ve got Lemaire Men's Bottoms starting at $359 and plenty of other Men's Bottoms. Shop our selection of Lemaire today!
Grailed
Lemaire Last Size Lemaire Men’s Cotton Pants 52 | Grailed
Searching for Last Size Lemaire Men’s Cotton Pants 52? We’ve got Lemaire Men's Bottoms starting at $323 and plenty of other Men's Bottoms. Shop our selection of Lemaire today!
cant speak to the authenticity of lemaire pieces but I can speak to inseam lengths. If you're tall, the balloon/barrel legs get a bit rough if you dont like a slight crop
im sure there are some out there that are longer, but sooo many are in shorter inseams
most of the brands recommended come from Japan/Korea and some are also unisex freesize
which means they often are designed to fit you and someone much smaller than you
many of them are a mid rise at best too
as far as those lemaire models you're best off bringing Pierre into this
I'm finding that out the hard way, but I've come up with an idea.
Lemaire inseams appear to be workable for me, if I find a pair that fits I'm going to send it off to Luxire to duplicate with some tweaks
That way I will get the fit i want for less than $200
Are you just looking for the pattern basically then?
Yes, if a garment fits well and is made with quality fabrics I don't mind it not being from a specific brand
It's just that certain brains seem to master specific cuts/looks
If you are at all close to a uniqlo you really need to at least try the U wide leg trousers on. It's virtually identical through the legs as the twisted belted pants with a slightly lower rise and different inseam options for regular vs tall
I own both - I've heard rumors that lemaire will use some of the same patterns for the U line. Here they are overlaid on one another
Material and construction are very different but the silhouette is almost identical from a 2d perspective.
It is a no-cost way to at least see how you feel about the cut as well. You can go true to size or size up for a more exaggerated barrel look
I must be looking at the wrong trousers then because the wide leg chinos i saw on the Uniqlo page didn't seem to be cut like that. The pleated wide trousers were, but they are polyester.
Actually that may still work, if the cut is the same I can try the poly pair out, then have them duplicated in different fabrics
UNIQLO
Wide Fit Chino Pants | Tall | UNIQLO US
Shop mens Wide Fit Chino Pants | Tall at UNIQLO US. Read customer reviews, explore styling ideas, and more.
They should be tagged under the "uniqlo u" line. This is the "tall" model with a longer inseam and they have a regular one as well
I still think there is value in looking at other models and brands for more variety but these are the easiest option to check out, especially if you are considering them just for the pattern
yeah i have a pair of those uniqlo ones, theyre really great for the price
Lemaire
Vs uniqlo. Second photo is a more relaxed pose so you can see how they fall when you aren't standing upright
They will drape a bit differently because they don't have the twisted seam (and material is dif) but that's irrelevant if luxire isn't also going to put in a twisted seam
if youre specifically wanting a twisted seam cut, i know Stein does a few similar cuts as well for a more reasonable price (when proxied). this is denim but i believe they do a bunch of other fabrics too
https://www.acrmtsm.jp/products/detail/60953
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ssstein - 【残りわずか】Twist Seam Vintage Denim Jeans | ACR...
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What color way is this in the Uniqlo chinos?
I think 38 dark brown?
There were two browns when I got these and these were the greener brown
what are those btw? lemaire belted twisted pants?
I'm not dead set on the twisted seam, most of the Lemaire trousers I like aren't twisted
Yeah they're the twisted belted pants in espresso
The first pair you posted from grailed weeg has a pair, https://discord.com/channels/1116793467654381685/1116800072093532191/1299759886871167087