Solar powered temperature-controlled fan help
Hope I’m not crossposting with this
I’ve talked a bit in the main channel about this and I think it’s to the point where I’m probably better off just making a thread on it cause I clog up too much space.
An image is attached of my design but it’s a w1209 temp relay controlling a pc fan. Both are powered from the same 12V battery (both rated for 12v btw). The fan runs when the w1209 detects a temperature above 70*F
My question is if in this design I would need a regulator to keep the voltage at 12V or if it’s alright to let it run just like this (I calculated 171 hours of time the w1209 can run on just the battery if it isn’t controlling the fan and 92 hours when controlling it; the battery is also connected to a solar panel so it’ll eventually charge back up to around 13.25V).
I’m pretty sure the pc fan has a bit of leniency on how much voltage is being applied but I’m not sure if it’s ok to operate the w1209 at other voltages.
I tried using a 12V buck boost and it instantly shorted and died when it connected to the battery so I want to see if I even need a regulator before I buy another one.
125 Replies
how is this 4 lead device marked?
You mean these 4 inputs right?
no, the chip in the image on the w1209
Ah im not sure
You mean this?
No clue
it looks like a voltage regulator, it's specs will tell you the max input voltage it will tolerate
I don’t think it’s a regulator if that’s what you’re getting at
Oh
Online it doesn’t say anything wherever I look about a regulaotr
i thought you had one
I was using a buck/boost and it got fried so I was thinking of buying a regulator
Haven’t bought it yet
Ah
what I'm saying is that board has a regulator, the w1209 probably runs on 5v, it lists "12v" as an input, but there is likely a range it will accept
It does look like a regulator so you might be right I saw a video online where some guy just plugged in the battery directly and said it still worked even at 14.4V
But when I google it online everything gives a straight 12V as the necessary supply
do you or do you not have a w1209?
Yes
then look at that part, how is it marked?
Lordy Lordy
there ya go... AMS1117-5.0, it's a 5v regulator
https://tenbaht.github.io/sduino/hardware/w1209-thermostat/ for interests sake.
Ah i should’ve looked at the schematic
Bad news.. the AMS1117 is a max 12 v input
rip
So I need to regulate the battery and then run it through another regulator
I would be also dont run the fan off it.
thats a nasty inductive load.
@AnonEngineering what you think ?
But the w1209 can handle from 10A-20A or 14V DC it says
PC fan only takes about 0.3A
Thats the fkn relay
the project needs some work, the whole thing is a solar powered fan?
Yeah
12v panels?
Yes
The panel comes with a 12V charge controller
It has a regulator on it
So I am assuming 13 votls or so
Battery lead acid ?
LifePO4
😬
HYSINCERE 12V 6Ah Battery Lithium
12V 6Ah LiFePO4 Battery
This is the battery
lol the battery is also my pfp
pfp?
On the description for the panel it says it works fine with them are they bad
Profile picture
Why are you connecting to the battery ?
does the controller put out a regulated 12v?
it has 12v out
I got a bad feeling abot this
https://discord.com/channels/420594746990526466/863150139206926347/1388611185531813979
an inaccurate Amazon listing? I'm shocked...
smh how did I forget that convo I even put a checkmark on it and still forgot
So I should replace it with a lead acid battery?
Or replace the panel altogether
Not sure how to tell which chargers actually work with the LifePO4
However, he did say it would try to take the battery up to 14.4v and then a little beyond that but when the charge controller said the battery was fully charged the other day while I was testing it only measured ~13.75V
it looks to be designed for 12v lead acid battery chemistry
Also thought the BMS would prevent charging past 14.4V
different chemistries need different voltages / charge rates / etc
a lead acid wants to be trickle charged, LiPo doesn't
How can I tell if a charge controller works for LifePo4 or not
All of these that I look at say they do but now I’m doubting them
don't rely on Amazon listings, lookup charge controller manufacturers sites
After I replace this would I be clear or at least semi clear… what DarwinWasWrong said earlier made it seem like all hope is lost either way
the panels will need to produce more voltage, the controllers I see want about 16v in
a 12v SLA battery might be easier to start out with, lithium needs more delicate handling
Mm yeah I got that lithium one for its compactness but I guess it can’t be helped if it’s problematic
Can that work with the lead acid chargers?
that charger seems designed for SLA
but you need to consider the overall design, you have devices that won't be happy at fully charged SLA voltages
I’d need to use the regulator to get the 12V anyways
And the w1209 can operate under 12V since that regulator can
PC fan I’ve read can also handle from 9-14V apparently from what I’ve read even though they’re optimal at 12V
most linear regulators want 2v of headroom, so if the relay on the w1209 needs 12v you need 14v of battery
What if I just convert to 9 volts that way the condition is met
Simply. No
@DarwinWasWrong @AnonEngineering the datasheet for the regulator says it can take up to 18V but recommended is 12
those are ABSOLUTE MAXIMUM ratings, you should never, ever exceed them, or run close to them
you could replace that regulator with a 7805 perhaps
Wouldn’t a 12v battery go to at most 14.4 or a bit higher
I just need a regulator that can step down to 5V yeah?
That would be safe for an 18V max no?
Wdym
Ok I’ll replace it with a different regulator
I was just curious
Won’t be using mains cause the project is supposed to rest outdoors
With maintenance and covering of course
It’s not a toy lol I’ll cover it up
Solar panel charge
BMS so it doesn’t overcharge
I mentioned it earlier but uses a w1209 to detect temperatures above 70*F and then runs the fan until the weather cools to below that
I avoided mentioning this part cause I knew it’d catch fire lol it’s for a stray cat shelter
Which I know is dangerous since they can cut through things but with the right encasing that shouldn’t be problem right?
💔
True but there are electronic cat toys and I’ve never seen a cat get harmed by one as long as the plastic coating around the circuitry was alright
I’m not planning to leave the wire out in the open lol
Wow he sounds cool and also smart lol
I make shelters for my neighborhood cats so i came up with this in the middle of a heatwave when I was cleaning one to prepare it
haha it’s nice what she was doing but I also see what the landlord meant when it got to raccoons becoming regular guests
the TO-220 7805 looks to be good for up to 20V in
I always feel bad for pigeons they were bred to be pets and then people shunned them after the damage was done.
Also I’ve seen that a couple times 😭a cat going from one house to the next meowing loudly for food they’re slick
Yeah I took a look it said up to 25Vrecommended that’s well over enough for me
So I change the battery to SLA and swap the regulator and I’m good to go I hope unless I need another 12v regulator for the fan?
😭😭im so glad something is finally that simple
what do you mean by noise like the noise the fan makes when it’s moving?
Oh I don’t think that’ll be an issue in this
At least I hope now
Not
I’m training to get my radio license this summer but a lot of it really confuses me
The test doesnt seem hard to pass I’ve already memorized the answers to like 75% of the exam but it feels like I’m just blankly memorizing without taking it in but most of it is just rules anyways so mehhh
The regulator on this board is surface mount but I can only find 7805 as THT
I just don’t like the nickname “ham” and “amateur” 😭
My board also has like 2 missing resistors and a missing capacitor but the reviews said it worked so I’ll trust those lol
the larger TO-220 package is what makes this work 🙂
you'll be doing what is called "re-work", modifying the board for the new component
as to the "missing" parts often a manufacturer will use the same PCB for different products, they mount or don't mount parts as needed
Im confused how the hole at the top of the regulator will help with that
Do I drill a hole into the joints to turn it into THT lol
the hole is where you'd bolt a heatsink, you probably don't need one here
do not drill into your PCB
Yeah the current draw isn’t bad enough for a heat sink but idk how to solder on the regulator to these pads
Do I just bend the metal
Noted lol
you need to match the pads, maybe run wires from the board to the 7805 and mount it to your box
Ok so solder wires to the pads and then solder those to the pins of the 7805
yes and you can use a nut & bolt to attach the 7805 to the box (the tab is ground)
What box?
Oh nvm
U mean the box in the picture lol mb
i assumed the whole thing was going into an enclosure of some kind
Yeah it is I didn’t realize what you meant mb
What do you mean by this though what’s the tab
the metal tab on the 7805
that tab is electrically connected to the ground pin
Like at the top with the hole?
yes, the hole is in the tab
Ok
I don’t really wanna get a new battery since this LifePo4 one is so compact but it’s annoying how all the charge controllers are marketing falsely like this one says it’s for LiFePo4 but it was proven wrong earlier in surprised this isn’t regulated
I looked at manufacturers but I’m not sure how I’m supposed to order it from them
Actually nvm what’s 2 inches
UPLUS 6AH Rechargeable AGM
12v battery 12 volt battery for ride on toys adt battery replacement 12V alarm Battery tire pressure pump Battery trailer brakeaway system Battery Storm Station Battery 12V Rechargeable SLA Battery 12V back up battery
I’m looking at this one
Is this good with the lead acid charger I have?
Ah whoops I skimmed over the header didn’t see agm
this then?
Mighty Max Battery ML5-12 - Reliable Power When You Need It
Delivering power when you need it the mighty max ML5-12 12 volt 5 Ah uses a state of the art heavy-duty calcium-alloy grid that provides exceptional performance and service life in both float and cyclic applications The ML5-12 is an absorbent glass mat (AGM) technology with a valve regulated desi...
that is also an AGM battery
WTF how do I keep misreading this
Do most solar panel charge controllers not support AGN
AGM
I know they lied about supporting LifePo4 but their diagram also mentions AGM lol
Bateria Power Solar Charge Controller
Bateria Power 10A MPPT Solar Charge Controller with LCD Display √ Advanced MPPT solar charge technology with high tracking efficiency of up to 100%. √ Visual LCD display allows to monitor the working status of the solar panel and battery conditions. √ Capable of automatically detecting 12V batter...
This charge controller looks good
It has the options to change depending on the battery you’re using
Is it safe to disconnect the other charge controller from the solar panel and connect it to this one (I’d have to cut the wires) or should I just get a solar panel that doesn’t have a charge controller and connect to this one
did you notice they recommend 18V panels?
It says 12
the PV panel needs to be minimum 15v, and no higher than 30v
This one is 21.6V
ok, i thought you said it was a 12v panel
it's a 12 to 18v panel
21v is open circuit
12v is the operating voltage
Isn’t PV Voc the open circuit voltage
i think you are correct there about Voc, but normal output needs to be high enough to charge the battery
😭im so stumped i cant find anythingggg
Alright @AnonEngineering how about this https://a.co/d/5w5DllO
Renogy 10 Amp 12V/24V Solar Charge Controller - Compact and Reliable
PWM (Pulse-Width Modulation) charge controllers are an essential component of solar power systems, as they help to regulate the amount of energy that is transferred from the solar panels to the battery. The Renogy Wanderer PWM Charge Controller constantly monitors the battery voltage and adjusts ...
if the description is to be believed it looks good.
rather than rely on Amazon study the manufacturer site
https://www.renogy.com/wanderer-10a-pwm-charge-controller/
Noted
lol
Alright @AnonEngineering the regulator came in. How should I desolder the built in one on the w1209 without accidentally de soldering everything else
very carefully, it takes practice to remove SMT components
you might want to desolder the tab first, lift it very slightly, then heat up all three pads on the other side to remove it. ten you need to clean up the pads
Is it a bad idea to just blast the heat gun on the whole thing and then use tweezers to pick it up?
Also by cleaning it you mean isopropyl alchohol to prep for soldering right
i'd think with a heat gun you'd unsolder other things, i don't know your skill level
lol very beginner so I guess that’s a no then but ow these are so weird idk if my iron can even touch them without touching something else
unsolder the tab, get an xacto knife under it and lift slightly
once the tab is free get all 3 leads hot and the part should fall off
Ok makes sense ty
best way to get all 3 hot is to put one big blob of solder there
once the part is off clean up the big blob so all three pads are nice and isolated from each other
then maybe some isopropyl on a q-tip
Ahhh that makes sense so the heat transfers to each part I see
@AnonEngineering ok so I’m trying to take off the tab but no matter how long I press the iron on it it doesn’t budge or show signs of being soldered at all
Nvm got it off
Went out easier by taking the pins out first somehow
The entire back of the component was soldered to the base
Should I leave the blob in the middle alone or disconnect it
It looks alright to me
You crossposted, some comments are here: https://discord.com/channels/420594746990526466/863150139206926347/1398517878327873727
A sorry