Building a V-Core 4 Idex 500 (Questions and problems)
I'm posting here rather than spamming the v-core-4 channel regularly and quickly losing the information provided. I'll post any questions/problems I encounter during the build here.
32 Replies
1 : One of the printed parts is missing one or two lines of plastic in one place, which means I have a small hole. Since this is where the air is supposed to pass through, I think it's not good. What do you think? Should I fill it up? If so, what do you recommend? Thanks!
2 : Another point. When installing the X-Axis assembly, I did not fully tighten the M3x8 screws on the Carriages directly. Instead, I pressed the Gantry onto the front so that it was perfectly flat, then tightened the 8 M3x8 screws. As you can see in the photos, it fits perfectly on both front sides, but there is a gap of about 1 mm on the back right side.
What do you recommend to fix this issue?
Thanks!
Edit : Now that I have both toolheads installed, they are the ones touching the XY step motors when they are at the ends of the X rail. I don't know if this is normal.
Hey everyone, question here. We agree that this "Connector - 5 Pin - JST-PH" is Something like in the picture on grey Background I found on internet right?
And that this is where it's supposed to go right?
https://ratrig.dozuki.com/Guide/13.+Wiring/316#s3884
Rat Rig
13. Wiring
And does "Connector - 5 Pin - JST-PH" mean "Connector - 5 Pin - JST Plug Housing" ?
This is belt tension related
Thanks! Also for the toolhead touching the XY step motors when they are at the ends of the X rail?
You want that. You want them to touch the xy motors at first with minimal tension. Then tension each side after that to spec.
I need to make a video, I think I have a livestream where I showed how
If you make one, I'm a taker! 😁
Hey !
I need help with the best placement for the Toolhead cables.
Basically, I'm going to put the electronics on the rear part of the top, as some people here have already done. And I have a real question about the cable routing, especially if people know how the cables will react and therefore what the best solution would be.
Basically, I have two ideas at the moment:
1 - The cables come out directly from the center of the machine and “downwards.” So they are completely centered and I have more space for electronics and future additions. (Video 1). But what worries me here is the ‘S’ shape that the cables will make in certain Toolhead positions. More bending than in the version that comes out “forward.”
2 - Or the cables come out “towards the front.” Something closer to the original cables. (Video 2). This gives me less space than in the other version because I move the central extrusion back a little, but there are fewer kinks in the cables.
Any expert advice on the dos and don'ts in this kind of situation?
Thank you!
Sooo, I've tested the cable movement on my first version, the one where the cables come out of the top center and are oriented “downward” because that's the one that gives me the most space for the electronics. I made two videos. One at eye level and another from below.
"Top" view: https://youtu.be/nJtnlG25hUg
"Bottom" view: https://youtu.be/HOvyLUTi0pQ
Does anyone have a different opinion? Why might this be a bad idea? Assuming that I'm also in Idex. Or do you feel that should work fine?
Thanks!
I achieved the same thing with keybacks and no piano wire. Are you wanting to have the wires come through a hole in the top?
Keybacks?
Yeah that's the idea, coming from here on the first video :
I was thinking of a PTFE Tube instead of the Piano Wire, which seems to be to rigid
I'll take a video of the PTFE and wires working with the keyback
Hoo you mean this kind of things? Yeah, I'll gladly see that! Could be a cool solution actually! Thanks.
Sort of. More return force. It's a mod someone made a while back but I didn't use it till now.
https://www.printables.com/model/1212534-ratrig-vcore4-retractor
This could be a good Idea yeah actually. I'll gladly look at your video when you have the time, thanks!
Interesting! Thanks! You have a more traditional cable routing approach, not what I want to do, but the retractor idea is interesting. I don't know if I'll need it in my case, since the cables are much shorter and comes from above, but if during testing I realize that there are positions where the cables go too low, it could be an interesting solution! I'll keep that in mind. Thanks for the info, the video, and the link!
Sooo,
After much discussion on the subject, several “prototypes” and several hours thrown into it, here is the most advanced version of my electronic on top of my VC4.
It's clearly not finished yet, but I already have a good foundation.
- So I ended up not going with the idea of “downward-facing cables.” My quick tests didn't show any specific problems, but I got several “be careful” comments from pros and people at the fab lab, so in the end I decided to sacrifice a little space in my electronics “box,” move the central extrusion back a little further, and have the cables face forward.
- Normally, the cables going to the toolheads should have little tension, I think I'll “reinforce” them with a PTFE tube rather than piano wire, which will be too rigid and brittle. In any case, I like this cable routing much better than the default one.
- I'm going to start by installing the basic electronics provided in the kit. But that leaves me almost twice as much space for upgrades and makes it easier to work than in the tiny basic box.
- I'll probably test the “Retractor” upgrade a little later, but for now I want to be able to start the machine “quickly” if possible.
- I'll probably also add so sort of insulation between the inside of the enclosure and the electronic part (Foam between ACM and Extrusion, and things like that. I saw some peoples add some kind of insulation glued to the panels on the inside. That could work too. But apparently, this can make it “too hot” for certain filaments. )
- The two top plates will be made of transparent Plexiglas (the ones that rise in the video). And the one that will support the electronics will be made of ACM.
- Probably need more Fan on the top, even though I made “ventilation grid” on all sides of my new electronic "box"
In short, I reached a stage where I feel it's ready to be shown, so I'm open to feedback ^^. What do you think?
Thanks in advance!
I'd suggest at least 4 fans on top of that size. Heat rises and if this is going to be enclosed, that top mount electronics will get hot without more cooling. I think it's awesome! Ever think about also desinging a side pack?
4? Where will you put them?
A side pack?
And thanks!
Just center them like the one you have in a line instead
Side pack is when the electronics bay is on the side of the printer
Ok. Thanks! You really thinks I'll need 4? I don't know if you've noticed, but there are small air holes around the entire perimeter of the electrical box. Small grids to let air through.
Ho Ok. I didn't understand what you were talking about, sorry.
What do you think is the advantage of putting it on the side?
Easier access
Ok. I guess it depend where and how you use your printer :p.
In my case, it seems better on the top. But yeah, I know people who put the electronic on the all back pannel also. That give a lot of space, that's for sure!
Back has its own disadvantages. PIA to get back there and work on it
Mines on a custom cart I made with wheels. Back is easy 😎
Yeah Back doesn't work for me also. That's why I put it on top.
Oh yeah, If I put another fan aligned and symmetrical to the first one, it will fall right on the protective plate and it won't fit.
This plate is for protection because even if you turn off the machine, there will still be power flowing through this part as long as the power supply is plugged in, right?
So it's better to keep it. But maybe I can find a thinner fan and make a grille to replace the plate, to prevent people from accidentally putting their fingers in it, while still allowing air to pass through.
Yep, Solution: Make a grid (with a little style :p) that'll be cut in the protective plate, switch the Hex Standoffs from M3x35mm to M3x30mm, and done :p.
