21 Replies
Got it — if just a single key (like your lower left one) isn’t working, it’s almost always a hardware issue. Here’s a quick checklist to work through:
1. Check the switch - Pull the switch out (if hotswap).
- Look at the pins — are they bent or not going all the way into the socket?
- Try swapping in a known good switch to confirm.
2. Check the hotswap socket - Sometimes the contacts in the socket aren’t touching the switch pins.
- Remove your plate/PCB and gently bend the gold contacts back towards the middle so they touch the switch once inserted.
- Also check the solder joints on each side of the socket — if in doubt, add a bit more solder.
3. Check the diode - Each key has a small diode soldered near it. Make sure it’s oriented the same way as the others and soldered solidly.
- If it looks dull, cracked, or lifted, reflow or add a little solder.
👉 Full step-by-step guide here: Single Key Not Working
These three things fix almost every “1 key not working” case. If that doesn’t help, let me know and we can dig into the row/column diagnosis.
Would you like me to help you identify exactly which diode/socket to inspect on your PCB for that lower left key?
1. Check the switch - Pull the switch out (if hotswap).
- Look at the pins — are they bent or not going all the way into the socket?
- Try swapping in a known good switch to confirm.
2. Check the hotswap socket - Sometimes the contacts in the socket aren’t touching the switch pins.
- Remove your plate/PCB and gently bend the gold contacts back towards the middle so they touch the switch once inserted.
- Also check the solder joints on each side of the socket — if in doubt, add a bit more solder.
3. Check the diode - Each key has a small diode soldered near it. Make sure it’s oriented the same way as the others and soldered solidly.
- If it looks dull, cracked, or lifted, reflow or add a little solder.
👉 Full step-by-step guide here: Single Key Not Working
These three things fix almost every “1 key not working” case. If that doesn’t help, let me know and we can dig into the row/column diagnosis.
Would you like me to help you identify exactly which diode/socket to inspect on your PCB for that lower left key?
Single Key Not Working | Typeractive.xyz Documentation
Fix a single key not working on your keyboard.
mine appears to be missing a small black rectangle. It is the only key i see some orange copper things
Ah, that’s the culprit 👍 — the small black rectangle is the diode for that key. Every switch has one, so if yours is missing, that key won’t work (those “orange copper things” you see are the pads where it should be soldered).
Options to fix it: - Replace the diode: It’s a standard SMD 1N4148W (SOD‑123 package) diode. You can order extras from electronics suppliers (Digikey, Mouser, Amazon, Aliexpress, etc.).
- Temporary test: If you have another donor PCB with diodes, you can carefully move one.
- Soldering: Just make sure the replacement diode’s orientation (stripe side) matches the other diodes on the board. Putting it in backwards will prevent the key from working.
Here’s the guide we recommend for reference: Single Key Not Working.
So, since your diode is outright missing, replacing it should restore that key.
✅ Do you want me to point you to the exact pad location and correct orientation for that specific key on your board?
Options to fix it: - Replace the diode: It’s a standard SMD 1N4148W (SOD‑123 package) diode. You can order extras from electronics suppliers (Digikey, Mouser, Amazon, Aliexpress, etc.).
- Temporary test: If you have another donor PCB with diodes, you can carefully move one.
- Soldering: Just make sure the replacement diode’s orientation (stripe side) matches the other diodes on the board. Putting it in backwards will prevent the key from working.
Here’s the guide we recommend for reference: Single Key Not Working.
So, since your diode is outright missing, replacing it should restore that key.
✅ Do you want me to point you to the exact pad location and correct orientation for that specific key on your board?
what if i dont have a soldering iron
If you don’t have a soldering iron, unfortunately there’s no way to properly replace that missing diode — it has to be soldered in place for the circuit to work.
You’ve got a few options:
1. Get a basic soldering setup:
- Even a budget iron like the Pinecil works great for small fixes like this.
- You’d only need a bit of solder and flux in addition to the diode.
2. Take it to someone with soldering experience:
- A local makerspace, repair shop, or even a friend who does electronics can solder a single SMD diode in a couple of minutes.
3. Leave the key unused:
- Your keyboard will still work, you’ll just have one dead key. Some people remap that key to another location in firmware (via ZMK Studio).
Since it’s just one diode, the repair is simple but it does require soldering.
👉 Would you like me to suggest an easy way to remap that missing key in software, so you can keep using your keyboard until you get it soldered?
You’ve got a few options:
1. Get a basic soldering setup:
- Even a budget iron like the Pinecil works great for small fixes like this.
- You’d only need a bit of solder and flux in addition to the diode.
2. Take it to someone with soldering experience:
- A local makerspace, repair shop, or even a friend who does electronics can solder a single SMD diode in a couple of minutes.
3. Leave the key unused:
- Your keyboard will still work, you’ll just have one dead key. Some people remap that key to another location in firmware (via ZMK Studio).
Since it’s just one diode, the repair is simple but it does require soldering.
👉 Would you like me to suggest an easy way to remap that missing key in software, so you can keep using your keyboard until you get it soldered?
Typeractive.xyz
Pinecil V2 Soldering Iron
The Pinecil is a smart mini portable soldering iron with a 32-bit RISC-V SoC featuring a sleek design, auto standby, and open-source firmware. It heats up to an operating temperature in just 6 seconds! Dual power input design: 1) USB-C supports both PD and QC 3.0 and; 2) DC5525 barrel DC jack. Speedy Rapid Warmup: Reac
Okay i will buy the soldering stuff. What do i need to buy?
Okay i will buy the soldering stuff. What do i need to buy?
Perfect — that’s a great choice 👍 Replacing a single diode is one of the easiest soldering jobs you can do. Here’s everything you’ll need:
Essential Tools - Soldering iron – Pinecil (small, travel‑friendly, good temp control)
- Solder – Thin rosin‑core solder (0.6–0.8mm is ideal)
- Flux – Helps the solder flow and prevents oxidation (optional but highly recommended)
- Tweezers – Fine tip, for holding the diode in place while soldering
- Sponge or brass wool – For cleaning the iron tip
Part You Need to Replace - Diode: SMD 1N4148W, SOD‑123 package
- You can find them in packs of 50–100 for cheap on Amazon, AliExpress, Mouser, or DigiKey.
Nice‑to‑have / Optional - Magnifying glass or desk lamp – makes lining up the tiny diode pads way easier
- Kapton tape – can hold parts in place and protect the board from heat
Notes - Make sure to solder the diode in the correct orientation. The side with the stripe/bar must match the direction of the other diodes on your board.
- Use a temperature of 270–300°C — hot enough for clean joints, safe for the PCB.
👉 Once you have the gear and the diode, I can walk you through the step‑by‑step process of soldering it back on.
Would you like me to outline the exact steps now so you’ll have them ready once your tools arrive?
Essential Tools - Soldering iron – Pinecil (small, travel‑friendly, good temp control)
- Solder – Thin rosin‑core solder (0.6–0.8mm is ideal)
- Flux – Helps the solder flow and prevents oxidation (optional but highly recommended)
- Tweezers – Fine tip, for holding the diode in place while soldering
- Sponge or brass wool – For cleaning the iron tip
Part You Need to Replace - Diode: SMD 1N4148W, SOD‑123 package
- You can find them in packs of 50–100 for cheap on Amazon, AliExpress, Mouser, or DigiKey.
Nice‑to‑have / Optional - Magnifying glass or desk lamp – makes lining up the tiny diode pads way easier
- Kapton tape – can hold parts in place and protect the board from heat
Notes - Make sure to solder the diode in the correct orientation. The side with the stripe/bar must match the direction of the other diodes on your board.
- Use a temperature of 270–300°C — hot enough for clean joints, safe for the PCB.
👉 Once you have the gear and the diode, I can walk you through the step‑by‑step process of soldering it back on.
Would you like me to outline the exact steps now so you’ll have them ready once your tools arrive?
Typeractive.xyz
Pinecil V2 Soldering Iron
The Pinecil is a smart mini portable soldering iron with a 32-bit RISC-V SoC featuring a sleek design, auto standby, and open-source firmware. It heats up to an operating temperature in just 6 seconds! Dual power input design: 1) USB-C supports both PD and QC 3.0 and; 2) DC5525 barrel DC jack. Speedy Rapid Warmup: Reac
will any soldering iron work? i cannot get the pinecil
Yep! Any temperature‑controlled soldering iron will work fine for this repair — you don’t need the Pinecil specifically. The key things to look for are:
✅ Temperature control – You want to set it around 270–300 °C so you don’t overheat the PCB or the nice!nano.
✅ Fine tip – A small conical or chisel tip makes it much easier to solder tiny SMD diodes.
✅ Decent power (20W+) – Enough to heat quickly without needing to sit on the pad too long.
Even a basic Hakko clone or a cheap adjustable‑temp iron on Amazon will do the job. If you can spend a little more, something like a Hakko FX‑888D or TS100/TS101 is very beginner‑friendly, but not required.
If you don’t get a kit that comes with solder, make sure to also grab:
- Thin rosin‑core solder (around 0.6mm)
- Flux (liquid or paste)
- Tweezers
So yes — as long as your iron can get to ~300 °C and has a fine tip, you’ll be set to replace that diode.
👉 Do you want me to write you a step‑by‑step guide for exactly how to replace that missing diode once you have your iron?
✅ Temperature control – You want to set it around 270–300 °C so you don’t overheat the PCB or the nice!nano.
✅ Fine tip – A small conical or chisel tip makes it much easier to solder tiny SMD diodes.
✅ Decent power (20W+) – Enough to heat quickly without needing to sit on the pad too long.
Even a basic Hakko clone or a cheap adjustable‑temp iron on Amazon will do the job. If you can spend a little more, something like a Hakko FX‑888D or TS100/TS101 is very beginner‑friendly, but not required.
If you don’t get a kit that comes with solder, make sure to also grab:
- Thin rosin‑core solder (around 0.6mm)
- Flux (liquid or paste)
- Tweezers
So yes — as long as your iron can get to ~300 °C and has a fine tip, you’ll be set to replace that diode.
👉 Do you want me to write you a step‑by‑step guide for exactly how to replace that missing diode once you have your iron?
yes please
Perfect! Here’s a step‑by‑step guide for replacing that missing diode once your soldering gear arrives:
--- 🔧 Prep 1. Tools ready: iron (270–300 °C), tweezers, solder, flux (optional but highly recommended).
2. Board off: Make sure the keyboard is switched off and battery disconnected if possible.
3. Identify pads: The two copper pads where the diode is missing. Look at nearby diodes to see the correct orientation — the stripe/bar side must match the others.
--- 🪛 Soldering Steps 1. Tin one pad: Put a tiny blob of solder on just one of the two diode pads.
2. Position diode: Hold the diode with tweezers, align it over the two pads with the stripe oriented correctly.
3. Tack one end: Heat the tinned pad while holding the diode in place. Once solder melts, the diode will stick.
4. Solder the other end: Add solder to the second pad, ensuring good coverage.
5. Reflow the first side (optional): Touch it quickly with iron to smooth it out.
--- ✅ Check Work - Diode should sit flat, stripe aligned with the others.
- Joints should be shiny, not dull/blobby.
- No bridges (solder shouldn’t connect beyond the pad).
--- 🔌 Test 1. Reassemble and power the board back on.
2. Test the formerly dead key — it should now register normally.
--- ⚠️ Tips
- Keep your dwell time short (2–3 seconds max per pad). More heat = more PCB risk.
- Clean tip frequently on brass sponge or damp sponge.
- If it doesn’t work after soldering, check again that stripe orientation matches neighboring diodes.
--- That’s it — one of the “easiest” SMD fixes! 🎉
Would you like me to mark exactly which pad belongs to the lower‑left key diode on a Corne or Lily58 diagram so you’ll know 100% where to put it?
--- 🔧 Prep 1. Tools ready: iron (270–300 °C), tweezers, solder, flux (optional but highly recommended).
2. Board off: Make sure the keyboard is switched off and battery disconnected if possible.
3. Identify pads: The two copper pads where the diode is missing. Look at nearby diodes to see the correct orientation — the stripe/bar side must match the others.
--- 🪛 Soldering Steps 1. Tin one pad: Put a tiny blob of solder on just one of the two diode pads.
2. Position diode: Hold the diode with tweezers, align it over the two pads with the stripe oriented correctly.
3. Tack one end: Heat the tinned pad while holding the diode in place. Once solder melts, the diode will stick.
4. Solder the other end: Add solder to the second pad, ensuring good coverage.
5. Reflow the first side (optional): Touch it quickly with iron to smooth it out.
--- ✅ Check Work - Diode should sit flat, stripe aligned with the others.
- Joints should be shiny, not dull/blobby.
- No bridges (solder shouldn’t connect beyond the pad).
--- 🔌 Test 1. Reassemble and power the board back on.
2. Test the formerly dead key — it should now register normally.
--- ⚠️ Tips
- Keep your dwell time short (2–3 seconds max per pad). More heat = more PCB risk.
- Clean tip frequently on brass sponge or damp sponge.
- If it doesn’t work after soldering, check again that stripe orientation matches neighboring diodes.
--- That’s it — one of the “easiest” SMD fixes! 🎉
Would you like me to mark exactly which pad belongs to the lower‑left key diode on a Corne or Lily58 diagram so you’ll know 100% where to put it?
i don have soldering es
Got it 👍 — if you don’t have soldering experience, no worries! A missing diode must be soldered back in, but you’ve got a few realistic options:
🔧 What you can do 1. Learn the basics
- Soldering is very approachable for small jobs like this — a couple of YouTube tutorials + a little practice on spare wire/parts will get you comfortable.
- The Adafruit excellent soldering guide in our docs is great for starters.
2. Get help from someone nearby
- Makerspaces, electronics repair shops, or even a local friend who tinkers with electronics can solder a single diode for you in less than 5 minutes.
3. Temporary workaround
- You can still remap that key to another position in firmware using ZMK Studio until you’re ready to solder. The missing key will remain dead, but you won’t “lose” the function. (ZMK Keymaps Docs)
--- ✨ My suggestion: If you’re curious, a small practice kit + basic soldering iron is the way to go — but if you want your board fixed quickly, bring it to someone with soldering experience and it’s done instantly.
👉 Do you want me to guide you through remapping that lower‑left key in ZMK Studio as a no‑solder workaround until you (or someone for you) can replace the diode?
🔧 What you can do 1. Learn the basics
- Soldering is very approachable for small jobs like this — a couple of YouTube tutorials + a little practice on spare wire/parts will get you comfortable.
- The Adafruit excellent soldering guide in our docs is great for starters.
2. Get help from someone nearby
- Makerspaces, electronics repair shops, or even a local friend who tinkers with electronics can solder a single diode for you in less than 5 minutes.
3. Temporary workaround
- You can still remap that key to another position in firmware using ZMK Studio until you’re ready to solder. The missing key will remain dead, but you won’t “lose” the function. (ZMK Keymaps Docs)
--- ✨ My suggestion: If you’re curious, a small practice kit + basic soldering iron is the way to go — but if you want your board fixed quickly, bring it to someone with soldering experience and it’s done instantly.
👉 Do you want me to guide you through remapping that lower‑left key in ZMK Studio as a no‑solder workaround until you (or someone for you) can replace the diode?
Adafruit Guide To Excellent Soldering
Solder at peak performance!
i got the diode, a 30w soldering iron, and a 1.2mm soldering lead (60/40). What do i do now
i got the diode, a 30w soldering iron, and a 1.2mm soldering lead (60/40). What do i do now
Awesome 🎉 you’re ready to do the repair! Since your solder is a little thick (1.2 mm), just use the tiniest amount that will stick — it works fine but you’ll want to avoid big blobs. Here’s the process:
--- 🔧 Prep 1. Set up safely: Work on a heat‑resistant surface, good lighting.
2. Power off keyboard: Make sure the keyboard is off and battery disconnected if possible.
3. Clean tip: Let the iron heat up (your 30 W iron should get hot enough) and wipe it on a damp sponge/metal wool.
--- 🪛 Soldering your diode 1. Tin one pad: Add a tiny bit of solder to one of the copper pads where the diode was missing. Don’t flood it.
2. Position diode: Grab the diode with tweezers and line it up flat across the two pads. Stripe/bar side must match the other diodes nearby.
3. Tack first side: While holding the diode in place, touch the soldering iron to the pad with solder. It’ll re‑melt and hold the diode down.
4. Solder the other side: Heat the clean pad and feed just enough solder so it wets the pad and diode lead.
5. Reflow the first joint (optional): Touch the first side again briefly to smooth it.
--- ✅ Check - Diode sits flat, stripe/bar matches the orientation of the rest.
- Solder is shiny, just covering the pad (not a huge blob).
- No bridges touching nearby copper.
--- 🔌 Test 1. Let it cool for ~30 sec.
2. Reconnect the battery / power it on.
3. Test that lower‑left key — it should now output as normal! 🎉
--- ⚠️ Tip: With thick solder like 1.2 mm, cut off a small piece and touch it lightly so only a sliver melts. That gives you better control.
Do you want me to make you a little orientation diagram so you know exactly which way the stripe should face on that lower‑left diode?
--- 🔧 Prep 1. Set up safely: Work on a heat‑resistant surface, good lighting.
2. Power off keyboard: Make sure the keyboard is off and battery disconnected if possible.
3. Clean tip: Let the iron heat up (your 30 W iron should get hot enough) and wipe it on a damp sponge/metal wool.
--- 🪛 Soldering your diode 1. Tin one pad: Add a tiny bit of solder to one of the copper pads where the diode was missing. Don’t flood it.
2. Position diode: Grab the diode with tweezers and line it up flat across the two pads. Stripe/bar side must match the other diodes nearby.
3. Tack first side: While holding the diode in place, touch the soldering iron to the pad with solder. It’ll re‑melt and hold the diode down.
4. Solder the other side: Heat the clean pad and feed just enough solder so it wets the pad and diode lead.
5. Reflow the first joint (optional): Touch the first side again briefly to smooth it.
--- ✅ Check - Diode sits flat, stripe/bar matches the orientation of the rest.
- Solder is shiny, just covering the pad (not a huge blob).
- No bridges touching nearby copper.
--- 🔌 Test 1. Let it cool for ~30 sec.
2. Reconnect the battery / power it on.
3. Test that lower‑left key — it should now output as normal! 🎉
--- ⚠️ Tip: With thick solder like 1.2 mm, cut off a small piece and touch it lightly so only a sliver melts. That gives you better control.
Do you want me to make you a little orientation diagram so you know exactly which way the stripe should face on that lower‑left diode?
ohmyfucking god i did it...i was already melting the diode
😅🔥 Hah, that’s completely normal — SMD diodes are tiny and they heat up really fast, so it feels like you’re about to cook them. Don’t worry though:
- As long as you didn’t keep the iron on the part for more than a few seconds at a time, the diode is almost certainly fine.
- If the key now works when you press it → ✅ success!
- If it’s still dead, re‑check orientation (stripe/bar matches the others) and the solder joints — just re‑touch each side quickly (~1–2 seconds) with the iron to “reflow” the connection.
⚠️ Quick tip for SMD parts:
- Always try to pre‑tin the pad, then just “touch & go” with the iron.
- If possible, let the part cool between attempts to avoid overheating.
So if your key is alive now — congrats, you just did your first SMD repair! 🎉 That’s way harder than through‑hole soldering, so you’re ahead of the game now.
👉 Want me to give you a step‑by‑step way to test that diode with a multimeter so you can confirm it’s healthy and not fried?
- As long as you didn’t keep the iron on the part for more than a few seconds at a time, the diode is almost certainly fine.
- If the key now works when you press it → ✅ success!
- If it’s still dead, re‑check orientation (stripe/bar matches the others) and the solder joints — just re‑touch each side quickly (~1–2 seconds) with the iron to “reflow” the connection.
⚠️ Quick tip for SMD parts:
- Always try to pre‑tin the pad, then just “touch & go” with the iron.
- If possible, let the part cool between attempts to avoid overheating.
So if your key is alive now — congrats, you just did your first SMD repair! 🎉 That’s way harder than through‑hole soldering, so you’re ahead of the game now.
👉 Want me to give you a step‑by‑step way to test that diode with a multimeter so you can confirm it’s healthy and not fried?
yeah what is that
yeah what is that
Great question! A multimeter is a handheld tool that measures things like voltage, resistance, and continuity. Most have a special diode test or continuity mode that lets you check if a diode is working correctly.
Here’s how you’d use it to test your new diode:
--- 🧰 What you need - Any cheap digital multimeter (even a $10 one works fine).
- Set it to either Diode mode (🔺 symbol) or Continuity mode (beeper).
--- 🔎 Diode Testing (best way) 1. Put the meter in Diode Mode.
2. Place red probe on the pad connected to the non‑striped side of the diode.
3. Place black probe on the striped side.
4. You should see a reading like 0.5–0.7 V (normal forward drop).
5. Reverse the probes (swap red/black).
- Now it should show OL / no reading.
👉 If you see this behavior: ✅ diode is good.
👉 If you get 0 both ways or OL both ways: ❌ bad or installed wrong.
--- ⚡ Continuity Testing (simpler but less precise) - In continuity mode, you’ll hear a beep in one direction only when probing across the diode.
- No beep = open / bad diode.
- Beep both directions = shorted diode.
--- So basically, a diode is like a one‑way valve for electricity: it should only conduct one way.
Do you already have a multimeter, or should I point you to a good beginner one to grab?
Here’s how you’d use it to test your new diode:
--- 🧰 What you need - Any cheap digital multimeter (even a $10 one works fine).
- Set it to either Diode mode (🔺 symbol) or Continuity mode (beeper).
--- 🔎 Diode Testing (best way) 1. Put the meter in Diode Mode.
2. Place red probe on the pad connected to the non‑striped side of the diode.
3. Place black probe on the striped side.
4. You should see a reading like 0.5–0.7 V (normal forward drop).
5. Reverse the probes (swap red/black).
- Now it should show OL / no reading.
👉 If you see this behavior: ✅ diode is good.
👉 If you get 0 both ways or OL both ways: ❌ bad or installed wrong.
--- ⚡ Continuity Testing (simpler but less precise) - In continuity mode, you’ll hear a beep in one direction only when probing across the diode.
- No beep = open / bad diode.
- Beep both directions = shorted diode.
--- So basically, a diode is like a one‑way valve for electricity: it should only conduct one way.
Do you already have a multimeter, or should I point you to a good beginner one to grab?
i inhaled a bit of the fumes tho...
You’ll be okay 🙂 — almost everyone breathes in a little solder smoke at some point when starting out. Here’s what you should know:
- 60/40 solder (tin/lead): The smoke you saw mostly comes from the flux, not the metal itself. Flux fumes can be irritating to your eyes/lungs, but a small whiff isn’t dangerous long‑term.
- Lead safety: Lead doesn’t vaporize at soldering temps, so you don’t inhale it. The risk with lead solder is from getting it on your hands and then ingesting it.
👍 What to do now - Get some fresh air (open a window, step outside for a minute).
- Drink some water — helps clear irritation and dry throat.
- Wash your hands after handling solder/components. Don’t eat or touch your face before washing.
For Next Time - Solder near an open window or use a fan/fume extractor to blow smoke away from your face.
- Keep your head slightly out of the rising fume path (iron in front of you, not right under your nose).
So don’t worry — a little flux smoke is not pleasant, but not harmful in the small amounts you just inhaled. The key is good ventilation and hand‑washing going forward.
👉 Do you want me to suggest a cheap little USB solder fume extractor setup you can add so you don’t have to worry next time?
- 60/40 solder (tin/lead): The smoke you saw mostly comes from the flux, not the metal itself. Flux fumes can be irritating to your eyes/lungs, but a small whiff isn’t dangerous long‑term.
- Lead safety: Lead doesn’t vaporize at soldering temps, so you don’t inhale it. The risk with lead solder is from getting it on your hands and then ingesting it.
👍 What to do now - Get some fresh air (open a window, step outside for a minute).
- Drink some water — helps clear irritation and dry throat.
- Wash your hands after handling solder/components. Don’t eat or touch your face before washing.
For Next Time - Solder near an open window or use a fan/fume extractor to blow smoke away from your face.
- Keep your head slightly out of the rising fume path (iron in front of you, not right under your nose).
So don’t worry — a little flux smoke is not pleasant, but not harmful in the small amounts you just inhaled. The key is good ventilation and hand‑washing going forward.
👉 Do you want me to suggest a cheap little USB solder fume extractor setup you can add so you don’t have to worry next time?