Both nice!view suddenly blank Corne Wireless
Without changing anything in my configuration, suddenly both of my nice!views have gone blank.
When I attempt to power off/on the boards, they briefly show some 'static' before returning to being blank.
I've attempted to reset to the default firmware provided on this page - https://docs.typeractive.xyz/build-guides/corne-wireless/firmware, but that has not resolved the issue.
All other functionality of the keyboards is normal. Any help/insights would be appreciated!
27 Replies
Thanks for the detail. A brief “static” on power-up means the panels are getting power but likely aren’t receiving data, or the firmware without display support is running. Let’s quickly isolate it:
1) Re-flash the correct files
- Make sure you used the “✅ nice!view” UF2s, for the correct side and column count (6-col vs 5-col). Left and Right must not be swapped.
- Flash both halves again: double-tap reset, copy the UF2, wait for reboot.
Link: https://docs.typeractive.xyz/build-guides/corne-wireless/firmware
2) Rule out low voltage
- Unplug the battery from each half, leave the power switch OFF, and power each half via USB. If the displays work on USB only, charge both halves with the switch ON for ~2 hours.
3) Reseat the nice!views
- Remove the display covers, pull each nice!view straight up, then firmly reseat it.
- If using no-solder headers, push until the plastic is flush with the PCB. Check for any bent/oxidized pins.
- If soldered, closely inspect and, if needed, reflow the solder on the PCB sockets and on the nice!view’s header.
Install guide: https://docs.typeractive.xyz/build-guides/corne-wireless/nice-view
4) Swap sides
- Swap the two nice!views between halves. If the issue follows a panel, that panel likely needs repair/replacement. If it stays with a half, it points to that half’s sockets/joints/firmware.
5) If still blank
- Reflow the nice!view socket joints on the PCB again (cold joints can present exactly like this on both halves if assembled similarly).
- Confirm exactly which two UF2 filenames you flashed to each side and share clear photos of the nice!view area (PCB sockets and panel headers).
Reply here (or tag me) with what you find and I’ll help you zero in on the next step.
Firmware | Typeractive.xyz Documentation
If you're not familiar, ZMK is a wireless-focused firmware, and it powers our Corne Wireless.
nice!view | Typeractive.xyz Documentation
If you have nice!views with your build, this guide will go over installing the sockets and headers. If you don't have nice!views, you can skip this guide.
Okay, I've tried everything up to step 5 without any success. Tonight I'll try to reflow the joints and let you know if that fixes anything. @TyperAI
Sounds good! A few tips for tonight’s reflow and some quick checks that often fix “static then blank” displays:
Reflow tips
- Power off and remove the nice!views.
- Add flux, set iron ~270–300°C.
- Reflow the 4 pins of each nice!view socket on the PCB until shiny. Add a tiny bit of solder if needed. Avoid bridges between pins.
- Reflow the 4 header pins on the underside of each nice!view module too.
- Clean with IPA and reseat firmly.
Quick checks (optional but helpful)
- With the half powered via USB, measure between the VCC and GND pins of the nice!view socket (they’re labeled on the PCB silkscreen). You should see ~3.3V. If 0V, the issue is power to the socket; if 3.3V, it’s likely data/connection.
- Lightly press/wiggle the seated nice!view while powered; any flicker points to a contact issue.
- Inspect for hairline solder bridges on the 4-pin socket and for cracked joints.
Firmware sanity
- Please confirm the exact UF2 filenames you flashed to each half and whether you’re on 6-col or 5-col. Both halves must use the “✅ nice!view” variants and not be swapped L/R: https://docs.typeractive.xyz/build-guides/corne-wireless/firmware
If reflow + reseat still leaves them blank:
- Send clear close-ups of the nice!view sockets (PCB side) and the nice!view headers (module side), plus the UF2 filenames used. That’ll let me pinpoint next steps.
- If we confirm power and joints are good, we can look at panel failure/replacement—email hello@typeractive.xyz with your order info and findings.
Reply here or tag me with results and I’ll keep helping.
Firmware | Typeractive.xyz Documentation
If you're not familiar, ZMK is a wireless-focused firmware, and it powers our Corne Wireless.
I will. Does the fact that they both went out at the same time give you any important info? @TyperAI
Great question. Both going blank at the same time usually points to a common cause rather than two independent failures. The most common “both at once” causes are:
- Firmware mismatch on both halves (non–nice!view build or L/R swapped). You’ve reflashed the ✅ nice!view UF2s already, so this is less likely, but please still confirm the exact filenames used per side from the Corne firmware page.
- Power/IO to the displays, not the panels themselves. “Static then blank” strongly suggests the panels get power but aren’t receiving/displaying data after init, which is typically a contact/cold-joint issue on the 4-pin sockets/headers.
- ESD/surge event that hit both panels. It’s rarer, but if reflow/cleaning doesn’t bring them back, this becomes likely.
Your plan to reflow is the right next step. While you’re at it:
- Clean both the socket pads and the nice!view header pins with IPA, add flux, reflow at ~270–300°C, then reseat firmly.
- If you can, power via USB and check ~3.3V between the nice!view socket VCC and GND on each half. 3.3V present + blank display further implicates data/connection (not power).
If reflow + cleaning + firm reseat still leaves them blank:
- Share the exact UF2 filenames flashed to each half and a couple close photos of the socket joints and the nice!view header pins. That will help us confirm whether it’s panel failure vs. joint/firmware.
- If it looks like both panels died, we’ll sort out replacements. You can email hello@typeractive.xyz with your order info and findings.
Tag me back here with results and I’ll keep helping.
@TyperAI I've reflowed the solder, but this did not fix the issue. So I tested for the voltage and found there is 0V between VCC and GND
@TyperAI I've reflowed the solder, but this did not fix the issue. So I tested for the voltage and found there is 0V between VCC and GND
Thanks for checking. 0V at the nice!view VCC pin on both halves means the displays aren’t getting 3.3V from the nice!nano through the PCB.
Let’s pinpoint where power is lost:
1) Confirm probe points
- Double‑check you’re on the VCC and GND pins of the 4‑pin socket (use the PCB silkscreen). If unsure, send a close photo of the socket so I can confirm.
2) Verify 3.3V on the nice!nano itself
- With battery unplugged, power via USB (switch ON).
- Measure between the nice!nano’s 3V and GND pads (they’re labeled on the nano). Expect ~3.3V.
- If you don’t see ~3.3V here, the nano/regulator is at fault (unlikely since the board works).
- If you do see ~3.3V on the nano but still 0V at the nice!view socket…
3) Check continuity from nano to the socket
- With power off, measure continuity:
- nice!view VCC pin ↔ nice!nano 3V pad.
- nice!view GND pin ↔ nice!nano GND pad.
- If continuity fails, the issue is the header joint(s) or a damaged trace/via.
4) Reflow the power path
- Reflow the nice!nano pins labeled 3V and GND on both the nano and PCB sides on each half. Add flux, 270–300°C, tiny solder if needed.
- If you’re using hotswap headers/sockets for the nano, reseat the nano firmly after reflow.
5) Re-test voltage at the nice!view socket VCC→GND with USB power.
If you still read 0V at the socket on both halves (but have ~3.3V on the nano), please send:
- Clear photos of the nice!view socket area (showing pin labels), and the nano header joints.
- The result of the continuity tests above.
If we confirm a PCB trace issue, we’ll get you sorted. You can also email hello@typeractive.xyz with your order info and findings. Reply or tag me here with the results and I’ll keep helping.
On both, I get continuity between nice view and nice nano GND, but not VCC
@TyperAI On both, I get continuity between nice view and nice nano GND, but not VCC
Thanks for testing. “GND has continuity, VCC does not” on both halves means the nice!view sockets aren’t getting the 3.3V rail from the nice!nano on either half. That points to the shared 3V connection between nano ↔ PCB (not the panels themselves).
Do this next:
1) Verify the nano has 3.3V
- Power via USB (battery unplugged, switch ON) and measure the nice!nano 3V pad to GND. You should see ~3.3V. If not, tell me.
2) Fix the 3V path nano ↔ PCB
- Identify the nice!nano pin labeled “3V” and the matching hole/socket on the PCB.
- Reflow that PCB socket hole on each half. Add a touch of solder if needed.
- If your nano is soldered to headers, reflow the nano’s 3V pin too. If you’re using no‑solder/spring headers, reseat firmly so the plastic is flush; inspect that the spring for the 3V position isn’t collapsed/bent.
- If you used EZ‑solder/Mill‑Max: also ensure the pin for 3V is actually inserted in the socket and not missing/bent.
3) Quick confirmation (optional, careful):
- With USB power, momentarily jumper the nano’s 3V pad to the nice!view VCC pin on the PCB. If the display comes to life, the panel is fine and the issue is that broken 3V connection on the shield.
If after reflow/reseat you still have:
- ~3.3V on the nano 3V pad
- 0V at the nice!view VCC
- no continuity VCC socket ↔ nano 3V
then the 3V trace/via to that socket is likely open. Please send clear close photos of:
- The nano area showing the 3V pin/header
- The nice!view socket joints (both halves)
If we confirm a board-side fault, we’ll get you sorted. You can also email hello@typeractive.xyz with your order info and findings. Reply/tag me here with your 3.3V reading on the nano and the jumper test result.
@TyperAI Sorry, can you explain again what to check if I do not have continuity between the nice nano vcc and the nice view vcc, but everything else with the nice nano is working fine?
Totally. Here’s exactly what to check when everything works but there’s no continuity from nice!nano 3V to the nice!view VCC:
1) Confirm the 3V source
- Power via USB (battery unplugged, switch ON).
- Measure the nice!nano “3V” pad to GND. You should see ~3.3V. If not, stop and tell me.
2) Trace the 3V path in two hops
- Hop A: nice!nano 3V pad ↔ the matching pin position in the nano header/socket on the PCB.
- If NO continuity:
- Reflow that PCB pad/hole and the nano’s 3V pin.
- If using EZ-solder/Mill‑Max: make sure there’s actually a pin installed at the 3V position (not missing/bent).
- If using no‑solder spring headers: ensure they’re fully seated (plastic flush) and the spring at 3V isn’t collapsed; try swapping headers.
- Reseat the nano firmly and retest continuity.
- Hop B: that PCB pad ↔ nice!view VCC pin.
- If NO continuity here, the PCB trace/via from the nano footprint to the display socket is open.
3) Quick confirmation test (optional, careful)
- With USB power, briefly jumper the nano’s 3V pad to the nice!view VCC pin on the PCB.
- If the display wakes up, the panel is fine and the fault is the 3V path on the PCB.
4) What to do based on results
- If Hop A was bad and reflow/reseat fixed it: re-test voltage at the nice!view socket (should now be ~3.3V).
- If Hop B is open on both halves: that’s likely a board-side trace issue. We can replace/repair.
- For diagnosis only, you can leave a small insulated wire from nano 3V to nice!view VCC.
If you can, post clear close-ups of:
- The nano 3V/GND pin joints and header/socket.
- The nice!view socket pins.
- Your UF2 filenames flashed per side.
If it looks like a PCB fault, email hello@typeractive.xyz with your findings and order info. Otherwise, tag me here with the hop A/B results and I’ll guide next steps.
@TyperAI okay, I can now confirm that I have continuity between the nice nano board and the nice view borad, both vcc and gnd
Nice—thanks for re-checking. Since VCC and GND now have continuity from the nice!nano to the nice!view socket on both halves, let’s verify power and then focus on data.
Do this next:
1) Re-measure voltage at the nice!view socket
- Power via USB (battery unplugged), switch ON.
- Measure VCC→GND at the 4‑pin nice!view socket on each half.
- If you now see ~3.3V, power is good. If it’s still 0V, please snap a close photo of the socket so I can confirm the pin you’re probing.
2) If ~3.3V is present but the screens are still blank
- Reflow the other two pins on the 4‑pin socket (the data lines) on the PCB side, and the matching two header pins on the nice!view module. Flux, 270–300°C, tiny solder if needed. Clean and reseat firmly.
- Closely inspect for hairline bridges between any of the 4 pins.
- Try each panel on each half again (one at a time).
3) Firmware sanity
- Reflash both halves with the exact “✅ nice!view” UF2s for your column count and correct side: https://docs.typeractive.xyz/build-guides/corne-wireless/firmware
- Please share the exact UF2 filenames you used for Left and Right.
4) If 3.3V is good and reflowed data pins don’t help
- Post clear close-ups of the nice!view sockets (PCB side) and the nice!view headers (module side), plus your UF2 filenames. That’ll let me spot a data-line issue vs. panel failure.
- If it looks like a board fault or both panels died, we’ll sort you out—feel free to email hello@typeractive.xyz with your order info and findings.
Tag me here with:
- The VCC→GND voltage at each socket
- Whether reflowing the data pins changed anything
- The UF2 filenames flashed per side
I’ll keep helping from there.
Firmware | Typeractive.xyz Documentation
If you're not familiar, ZMK is a wireless-focused firmware, and it powers our Corne Wireless.
@TyperAI I have found something strange, when I initially power on the board, the nice view voltage is 3.3V, then it drops to 0
Got it. “3.3V at power-on, then drops to 0V at the nice!view VCC” almost always means the 3.3V path to the display can’t supply current (high-resistance/open joint/trace) or the display is shorting the rail.
Do these quick isolates per half:
1) Compare at the source
- Power via USB (battery unplugged, switch ON).
- Measure at the nice!nano 3V pad → GND.
- Stays ~3.3V? Then the nano/regulator is fine; issue is between nano 3V and the display socket.
- Also drops? Then something is shorting the 3V rail hard.
2) Unloaded vs loaded
- With the nice!view unplugged, measure VCC→GND at the display socket. Should be a steady ~3.3V.
- Plug the nice!view back in; if it falls to 0V, the load triggers the drop.
3) Resistance checks (power OFF)
- Measure resistance between the display socket VCC and GND on the PCB. If it’s very low (<10Ω), there’s a short on the board side.
- Measure resistance between VCC and GND on each nice!view module (at its header). If low, that panel is shorted.
4) Rule out a weak 3V path
- Reflow again specifically the nano’s 3V pin joints and the display socket’s VCC pin pad (both halves). Clean, reseat firmly.
- If using no-solder spring headers: ensure the spring at the 3V position isn’t collapsed; try swapping headers.
5) Bypass test (careful)
- With USB power, run a temporary jumper from the nice!nano 3V pad to the display socket VCC.
- If voltage holds at ~3.3V and the display works, the PCB 3V path is open/high-resistance → board-side repair/replacement.
- If it still collapses (and nano 3V also sags), the panel (or board) is shorting.
Send back:
- Nano 3V reading over time (stays 3.3 or drops).
- Socket VCC no-panel vs with-panel readings.
- Resistance results for PCB socket and each panel.
- A photo of the nano 3V pin/header and the display socket area.
If this points to a PCB fault or failed panels, email hello@typeractive.xyz with your findings and order info. Reply/tag me here and I’ll keep troubleshooting with you.
Even unloaded, the same behavior happens, the voltage jumps to 3V then back to 0
@TyperAI Even unloaded, the same behavior happens, the voltage jumps to 3V then back to 0
Thanks, that’s a helpful clue. If the nice!view VCC reads ~3.3V right at power‑on and then falls to 0V even with the display unplugged, that points to the 3.3V path to the socket being open/high‑resistance or shorted on the PCB.
Please run these per half:
- Compare at the source
- With USB power (battery unplugged, switch ON), measure the nice!nano 3V pad → GND. Does it stay ~3.3V steady? If yes, the nano/regulator is fine.
- Walk the path
- Measure at the PCB hole/pad where the nano’s 3V pin solders/plugs in (on the PCB side). Does that stay ~3.3V?
- Then measure at the nice!view socket VCC → GND again (display still unplugged).
- 3V at nano pad but 0V at socket = open/high‑R between those two points.
- Resistance checks (power OFF)
- Measure resistance from the nice!view socket VCC → GND on the PCB. If very low (<1 kΩ), there’s a short near the socket.
- Inspect for a tiny solder bridge or debris between the 4 socket pins or to nearby ground/copper. Also check the display cover screws/standoffs aren’t contacting pads.
- Reflow the exact power path
- Reflow the nano’s 3V pin joint (both nano side and PCB hole), and the nice!view socket’s VCC pin joint. Add flux and a touch of solder. If you use no‑solder headers, ensure the 3V spring isn’t collapsed; try swapping headers.
- Bypass test (careful)
- With USB power, run a temporary jumper from the nano 3V pad to the nice!view socket VCC. If VCC now stays ~3.3V (and the panel works when plugged), the PCB 3V trace to the socket is open/high‑R.
Send back (or tag me):
- Nano 3V reading (steady or not)
- Voltage at PCB 3V hole vs socket VCC (unloaded)
- Resistance VCC→GND at the socket
- A clear photo of the nano 3V pin/header and the nice!view socket area
If this confirms a PCB trace fault (on both halves), email hello@typeractive.xyz with your order info and findings and we’ll get you sorted.
@TyperAI
- nice nano is 3.3v stable
- pcb pad is 3.3v stable
- Restistance is greater than 1k
- reflowed the power path
Still same result
Thanks—those results narrow it down.
Given:
- nice!nano 3V is steady
- the PCB 3V pad is steady
- VCC at the nice!view socket jumps to ~3.3V then falls to 0 even with the panel unplugged
- resistance VCC→GND at the socket >1 kΩ
- reflowed already
This almost always means the VCC path from the nano to the nice!view socket is open/high‑resistance (or you’re probing the wrong pin).
Please do these per half:
1) Verify the pin you’re probing
- Use the silkscreen at the 4‑pin socket and confirm you’re on VCC. If unsure, snap a close photo and I’ll mark it.
2) Continuity: socket VCC ↔ nano 3V
- Power OFF. Meter in continuity/ohms.
- Measure from the socket’s VCC pin to the nice!nano 3V pad. You should see near 0 Ω.
- If it’s open/high Ω, the trace/via to the socket is broken.
3) Bypass test (careful)
- Power via USB (battery unplugged, switch ON).
- Run a temporary jumper from the nano 3V pad directly to the socket VCC pin.
- If VCC now stays ~3.3V (and the panel works when plugged), the PCB 3V path is faulty.
- If VCC still collapses but nano 3V stays steady, recheck you’re on the correct socket pin and inspect for a hidden bridge/debris or a cover screw contacting pads. Try with the cover removed.
4) If the trace is open on either/both halves
- Please send clear photos of the nano 3V pin/header area and the nice!view socket, plus your jumper test result.
- We’ll get you sorted—email hello@typeractive.xyz with your order info and findings to start a replacement/repair.
If the jumper doesn’t hold 3.3V, tag me with a photo of where you probed/jumpered and I’ll pinpoint the next step.
@TyperAI I just discovered that when I enter the bootloader, the view holds at a steady 3.3V. But when I flash controller, it drops to 0. I have confirmed that I am using a nice view firmware as well, directly from typeractive.
That new detail is really important:
- In bootloader: nice!view VCC is a steady ~3.3V
- With ZMK firmware running: nice!view VCC jumps to ~3.3V then drops to 0V
- You’re using the Typeractive “✅ nice!view” UF2s That strongly suggests a firmware/config vs. hardware interaction, not a solder joint: something about the running firmware is affecting the power net used for the displays. Before we escalate, a couple final sanity checks: 1. Confirm where it drops - While ZMK firmware is running and VCC at the nice!view socket has dropped to 0V, measure the nice!nano 3V pad → GND. - If the nano 3V pad is still ~3.3V when the socket is at 0V, please: - Re‑check continuity (ohms, not just beep) from nano 3V pad → nice!view VCC pin and tell me the approximate resistance. 2. Confirm exact firmware + board - Which board and column count are you using (Corne 5‑col, Corne 6‑col, or Lily58)? - Exact UF2 filenames you flashed to: - Left half
- Right half
(From here: docs.typeractive.xyz/build-guides/corne-wireless/firmware or the Lily58 firmware page.) 3. Quick experiment (optional) - Flash the “🚫 nice!view” UF2s to both halves once. - Check whether VCC at the nice!view socket still drops to 0V when ZMK runs. Because this is a rare edge case and it’s affecting both halves the same way, we probably need to inspect/replicate on our side. Please email hello@typeractive.xyz with: - Your order number - Board + column count - The UF2 filenames used per side - Summary of measurements (nano 3V vs socket VCC in bootloader and in firmware) You can keep using this thread too—reply or tag me with the answers to steps 1–3 and I’ll help interpret while support looks at hardware/firmware on their end.
- In bootloader: nice!view VCC is a steady ~3.3V
- With ZMK firmware running: nice!view VCC jumps to ~3.3V then drops to 0V
- You’re using the Typeractive “✅ nice!view” UF2s That strongly suggests a firmware/config vs. hardware interaction, not a solder joint: something about the running firmware is affecting the power net used for the displays. Before we escalate, a couple final sanity checks: 1. Confirm where it drops - While ZMK firmware is running and VCC at the nice!view socket has dropped to 0V, measure the nice!nano 3V pad → GND. - If the nano 3V pad is still ~3.3V when the socket is at 0V, please: - Re‑check continuity (ohms, not just beep) from nano 3V pad → nice!view VCC pin and tell me the approximate resistance. 2. Confirm exact firmware + board - Which board and column count are you using (Corne 5‑col, Corne 6‑col, or Lily58)? - Exact UF2 filenames you flashed to: - Left half
- Right half
(From here: docs.typeractive.xyz/build-guides/corne-wireless/firmware or the Lily58 firmware page.) 3. Quick experiment (optional) - Flash the “🚫 nice!view” UF2s to both halves once. - Check whether VCC at the nice!view socket still drops to 0V when ZMK runs. Because this is a rare edge case and it’s affecting both halves the same way, we probably need to inspect/replicate on our side. Please email hello@typeractive.xyz with: - Your order number - Board + column count - The UF2 filenames used per side - Summary of measurements (nano 3V vs socket VCC in bootloader and in firmware) You can keep using this thread too—reply or tag me with the answers to steps 1–3 and I’ll help interpret while support looks at hardware/firmware on their end.
1. I have confirmed that the nice nano board still has three volts
2. I am using Corne 6-col, here are the file names:
- 6_col_corne_left-nice_view_adapter-nice_view-nice_nano_v2-zmk-6347c95349c2848355cfba2abb1441e1.uf2
- 6_col_corne_right-nice_view_adapter-nice_view-nice_nano_v2-zmk-0064e16cdab80ac694df5885ae1a926c.uf2
3. I did the experiment and the same behavior happens, it drops to 0
@TyperAI 1. I have confirmed that the nice nano board still has three volts
2. I am using Corne 6-col, here are the file names:
6_col_corne_left-nice_view_adapter-nice_view-nice_nano_v2-zmk-6347c95349c2848355cfba2abb1441e1.uf2
6_col_corne_right-nice_view_adapter-nice_view-nice_nano_v2-zmk-0064e16cdab80ac694df5885ae1a926c.uf2
3. I did the experiment and the same behavior happens, it drops to 0
The behavior you’re seeing (3.3V in bootloader, then 0V once firmware runs) almost certainly means you’re probing a data pin, not the real VCC pin on the nice!view socket.
Firmware changes how those data pins are driven, but it can’t “turn off” the raw 3.3V rail. Since you’ve confirmed the nice!nano 3V pad is always 3.3V, VCC itself is fine.
Let’s positively identify the real VCC pin:
1. Power OFF, battery unplugged.
2. Put your meter in continuity/ohms and probe: - One lead on the nice!nano 3V pad.
- With the other lead, touch each of the 4 pins of the nice!view socket.
3. Exactly one socket pin should show near 0 Ω to the nano 3V pad – that pin is the true VCC.
- Mark it (e.g., a dot with marker), and use that pin for all future VCC measurements.
4. Do the same from the nano GND pad to the 4 pins to confirm which is GND. Then: 5. Power via USB (switch ON, still with the panel unplugged) and measure that confirmed VCC pin → GND: - In bootloader
- With ZMK firmware running You should see a steady ~3.3V in both cases. If you do, the power path is good and we can focus on the data pins and joints. If, after this test, the confirmed VCC pin still drops to 0V while nano 3V stays at 3.3V, that’s very unusual—please: - Send the resistance reading (ohms) from nano 3V pad to that VCC pin.
- Post/DM a clear close-up photo of the 4‑pin socket so I can confirm which pin is which. Once we know VCC is truly solid, next steps will be reflowing the other two pins (data lines) and checking for bridges.
Reply or tag me with: - Which socket pin ended up being VCC
- Voltage there in bootloader vs firmware
- The resistance nano 3V ↔ that pin
We’ll keep going from there. You can also email all your findings + order info to hello@typeractive.xyz for extra help.
2. Put your meter in continuity/ohms and probe: - One lead on the nice!nano 3V pad.
- With the other lead, touch each of the 4 pins of the nice!view socket.
3. Exactly one socket pin should show near 0 Ω to the nano 3V pad – that pin is the true VCC.
- Mark it (e.g., a dot with marker), and use that pin for all future VCC measurements.
4. Do the same from the nano GND pad to the 4 pins to confirm which is GND. Then: 5. Power via USB (switch ON, still with the panel unplugged) and measure that confirmed VCC pin → GND: - In bootloader
- With ZMK firmware running You should see a steady ~3.3V in both cases. If you do, the power path is good and we can focus on the data pins and joints. If, after this test, the confirmed VCC pin still drops to 0V while nano 3V stays at 3.3V, that’s very unusual—please: - Send the resistance reading (ohms) from nano 3V pad to that VCC pin.
- Post/DM a clear close-up photo of the 4‑pin socket so I can confirm which pin is which. Once we know VCC is truly solid, next steps will be reflowing the other two pins (data lines) and checking for bridges.
Reply or tag me with: - Which socket pin ended up being VCC
- Voltage there in bootloader vs firmware
- The resistance nano 3V ↔ that pin
We’ll keep going from there. You can also email all your findings + order info to hello@typeractive.xyz for extra help.
@TyperAI which is vcc here?
On the Corne 6‑col, the nice!view VCC pin is the one labeled “V” in the silkscreen next to the 4‑pin socket.
Looking at your photo, the pins (left → right) are:
- G = GND
- V = VCC (this is the one you want)
- The other two are the data lines (SDA/SCL) So for all your VCC measurements: - Put your red probe on the second pin from the “G” side, the one with the “V” marking. - Black probe on the G pin or any GND pad. You can double‑check electrically: - Power OFF, battery unplugged. - Meter in ohms/continuity. - One probe on the nice!nano 3V pad, the other on that “V” pin.
- You should see ~0 Ω – that confirms it’s VCC. Once you’ve confirmed you’re on that pin, please test again: 1. Bootloader: VCC (V pin) → GND (G pin)
2. ZMK firmware running: same pins Reply or tag me with those two voltages and we’ll go to the next step.
- V = VCC (this is the one you want)
- The other two are the data lines (SDA/SCL) So for all your VCC measurements: - Put your red probe on the second pin from the “G” side, the one with the “V” marking. - Black probe on the G pin or any GND pad. You can double‑check electrically: - Power OFF, battery unplugged. - Meter in ohms/continuity. - One probe on the nice!nano 3V pad, the other on that “V” pin.
- You should see ~0 Ω – that confirms it’s VCC. Once you’ve confirmed you’re on that pin, please test again: 1. Bootloader: VCC (V pin) → GND (G pin)
2. ZMK firmware running: same pins Reply or tag me with those two voltages and we’ll go to the next step.
@TyperAI Is it the pin above or below the vcc text?
Good question, and the honest answer is: I can’t reliably say “above” or “below” from text alone because the orientation can vary. Let’s positively identify it with the meter so we don’t guess.
Do this (per half):
1. Power OFF, battery unplugged.
2. Find the 3V pad on the nice!nano (labelled “3V”).
3. Put your meter in continuity or ohms. 4. Put one probe on the nice!nano 3V pad. 5. With the other probe, touch the two pins next to the “V” text (the “above” and “below” pins you’re asking about), one at a time. - The pin that gives near 0 Ω / beeps is VCC. - The other one will show high resistance and is not VCC. Once you find the one that beeps to the 3V pad: - Mark it (tiny dot with a marker). - Use that pin for all your VCC voltage checks (VCC → GND). You can do the same trick for GND: - Probe the nice!nano GND pad to the pins near the “G” marking. - The one that beeps is GND. Reply or tag me with which of the two pins (above/below) ended up being VCC after the continuity test, and the voltage you see there (VCC→GND) in: - Bootloader
- ZMK firmware running
2. Find the 3V pad on the nice!nano (labelled “3V”).
3. Put your meter in continuity or ohms. 4. Put one probe on the nice!nano 3V pad. 5. With the other probe, touch the two pins next to the “V” text (the “above” and “below” pins you’re asking about), one at a time. - The pin that gives near 0 Ω / beeps is VCC. - The other one will show high resistance and is not VCC. Once you find the one that beeps to the 3V pad: - Mark it (tiny dot with a marker). - Use that pin for all your VCC voltage checks (VCC → GND). You can do the same trick for GND: - Probe the nice!nano GND pad to the pins near the “G” marking. - The one that beeps is GND. Reply or tag me with which of the two pins (above/below) ended up being VCC after the continuity test, and the voltage you see there (VCC→GND) in: - Bootloader
- ZMK firmware running