Freshly installed ratos on a Rat Rig 300 - does a bed mesh before every single print

I hope this is the right place to post - soooo many choices! I have this in macros.cfg
[gcode_macro _START_PRINT_BED_MESH]
gcode:
{% if printer["gcode_macro RatOS"].calibrate_bed_mesh|lower == 'true' %}
BED_MESH_CALIBRATE PROFILE=ratos
{% endif %}
BED_MESH_PROFILE LOAD=ratos
[gcode_macro _START_PRINT_BED_MESH]
gcode:
{% if printer["gcode_macro RatOS"].calibrate_bed_mesh|lower == 'true' %}
BED_MESH_CALIBRATE PROFILE=ratos
{% endif %}
BED_MESH_PROFILE LOAD=ratos
which looks like it should only be doing the bed mesh sometimes but I don't understand the macro code yet but I'm learning by reading stuff. Is printer["gcode_macro RatOS"].calibrate_bed_mesh reading the variable variable_calibrate_bed_mesh? I'm assuming like in a lot of languages "pipe" (|) is "or" but what is lower? I have tried running printer["gcode_macro RatOS"].calibrate_bed_mesh in the console but that doesn't work so I'm not sure how to go about debugging this stuff yet. If the variable assumption is correct (I don't understand how the variable_ bit gets removed at this stage but let's not worry about that!) - that variable is set to true in macros.cfg in the default setup - is it safe to override that to false in printer.cfg and do manual bed meshes from time to time?
16 Replies
miklschmidt
miklschmidt2y ago
The macro scripting language in klipper is Jinja2, look up the documentation for that to understand the syntax. In this case | is actually a pipe, similar to how it works in bash. It means "take the left side value and pass it to the right side function". Basically printer["gcode_macro RatOS"].calibrate_bed_mesh|lower takes the value of printer["gcode_macro RatOS"].calibrate_bed_mesh and converts it to lowercase letters. printer["gcode_macro RatOS"].calibrate_bed_mesh is used to control whether or not START_PRINT calibrates a mesh. It's highly recommended you keep this enabled. If you're annoyed about the time it takes to complete, it's easy to speed this up (increase probe speed, z-speed/accel, lower samples, etc). Read more about what RatOS macro's are available and what they do here: https://os.ratrig.com/docs/configuration/macros
Configuring RatOS Macros | RatOS
RatOS comes with a bunch of flexible predefined macro's that can be customized via variables. In your printer.cfg at the bottom of the Macro's section, you'll notice this:
miklschmidt
miklschmidt2y ago
For reference, my 7x7 bed mesh on my 400mm v-core 3 takes 30 seconds.
harsh-harlequin
harsh-harlequin2y ago
ah ok - the pipe makes total sense now and I'll look at changing those settings to speed it up and do some reading on Jinja2. It's probably less of a problem when I won't be doing lots of tiny prints trying to dial things in. I've also ordered a beacon surface scanner so that'll be interesting! Thanks for the fast reply
Arthur_C
Arthur_C2y ago
Hi @miklschmidt would you care to share the parameters that you have in to achieve this? I am in doubt as to which parameters might introduce inaccuracy...
miklschmidt
miklschmidt2y ago
All of them might introduce inaccuracy (especially the probe ones). You need a proper probe.
[bed_mesh]
speed: 800

[probe]
samples: 1
speed: 15
lift_speed: 80

[printer]
max_z_accel: 1500
max_z_velocity: 80
[bed_mesh]
speed: 800

[probe]
samples: 1
speed: 15
lift_speed: 80

[printer]
max_z_accel: 1500
max_z_velocity: 80
that works well with SuperPinda and Euclid it does not work with bltouch.
Arthur_C
Arthur_C2y ago
Thanx, I Have a Superpinda, so i'll give it a go. You are running performance settings on your stepper, I assume?
miklschmidt
miklschmidt2y ago
yes
Arthur_C
Arthur_C2y ago
Hi Mikl,... I now have switched on the performance settings in Ratos and use the ratos bedmesh method (very quick, with your above settings that i even halved). Now I am addicted to that speed and notice that printing with a 0.4mm on a E3D-revo is limited to a 12mm3/sec flowrate,... this increases to 18mm3/sec when I use 0.6mm nozzle. Do you have any experience in other hotends? I am thinking about buying a Phaetus Rapido plus (that I can later upgrade to UHF, budget permitting)?
miklschmidt
miklschmidt2y ago
Honestly just get the UHF now, it’s almost the same price and it’s cheaper that way
blacksmithforlife
If you want a cheaper alternative and if doing abrasive CHC pro seems to be the community consensus
Arthur_C
Arthur_C2y ago
I was contemplating this but I was wondering if those UHF hotends perform equaly well on smaller nozzle sizes, i.e. if you want to do crazy small stuff, would you then be better off with a revo voron, for instance or would you you bolt on the UHF and never think about it twice? WHAT, that thing is cheap? so if i do the Vulcano one, then I have plenty of flow, or can I use the regular nozzles (still have some laying around). Abrasives are on the agenda for the future... similar to my question above on the HF vs. UHF, would this hotend do equally well on NON-abrasives (assuming I put an abrasive resistant nozzle in)?
miklschmidt
miklschmidt2y ago
I run the UHF exclusively with a .4. Crazy small stuff like a .2? It would work fine. I used a Dragon HF with a .2 and it was beautiful. I don't think you're gonna have any problems. And yes, i would put on the UHF and never think about it twice. Yes it would. The only downsides with the CHC pro is the usability. Everything spins. And no heatbreak protection (although it's not stellar on the Rapido either).
Arthur_C
Arthur_C2y ago
Cool! I was just reading up on the heatbreak part,... it was mentioned to upgrade the CHC prop to a bi-metal heatbreak whereby the Rapido has this allready incorporated... And the V6 mountingstyle is not so charming if you ask me.... (I have had thermal runaways in the past that completely fckd up the mounting bracket and with no 2nd 3dprinter to print a replacement part, you're done printing,...). Thanx for your replies, Mikl!
miklschmidt
miklschmidt2y ago
There's a V6 heatsink with dragon mounting holes in the top out there. That helps a little bit
blacksmithforlife
Don't use a bi metal heat break. You want the thicker ones for abrasion resistance
miklschmidt
miklschmidt2y ago
You can use the bi-metal ones (higher flow, cleaner prints), they'll just die after a few kilo's of CF.
Want results from more Discord servers?
Add your server