yohji and issey
I'm interested in getting some pieces from these two, but they both have so many labels and lines I'm a little lost. Is there a place I can learn about the different labels, or would someone be willing to break it down here? Thanks so much!
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while i’m not very knowledgeable about these brands, there’s a nice summary of both labels on vintage fashion guild:
https://vintagefashionguild.org/label-resource/miyake-issey/
Vintage Fashion Guild : Label Resource : Miyake, Issey
Issey Miyake (1938-2022) left Toyko in 1964 and headed to Paris and a career in fashion. He worked for Guy Laroche and then for Givenchy in the late 1960s...
Vintage Fashion Guild : Label Resource : Yamamoto, Yohji
Yohji Yamamoto (b. 1943) opened his business in 1972 and showed his first collection in 1976. His first showing in Paris in 1981 created much press and...
i feel like @delajoel would be a good resource for yohji history and the nuances of each sublabel. might be worth searching styleforum!
I feel like Y’s is a great intro especially if you’re proxying
Gets into the silhouettes a bit
And is cheap
It was how I tried some initial Yohji and then decided I’m a boring slim fit loser
Hopefully I can help with YY.
In my opinion the most important lines are Pour Homme, Ground Y, S’yte, Y’s for Men for menswear and Femme, Y’s & Ground Y for womenswear.
Pour Homme is the foundation of menswear. Fabric and construction is of the highest quality and cuts are usually the most experimental. Designs start here and filter down into S’yte and ground Y.
Ground Y is pretty androgynous that is focused less on tailoring and more in wide and draped silhouettes. Items are still well made but fabric and hardware quality take a hit to make it more affordable. For example Pour Homme will use horn buttons, custom hardware, pure wool while GY will use off the shelf hardware and a wool blend.
S’yte is a mix of both lines, is the cheapest option and arguably the best entry point into the brand. Hardware and fabrics are of lesser quality than Pour Homme but is the best value for money imo. S’yte has no stockists so it has to be purchased from the website.
Lastly, Y’s for Men, is a fair bit more tame in terms of cut and styling compared to the above lines. It can be had pretty cheap on the secondary market though.
Didn’t even think about S’yte! Had a sick Junji Ito tee from there years ago
Thanks so much Joel! I was counting on your yohji wisdom 🙏 sounds like Ill be starting with syte.
Let’s go!