EBB42 with some idle sensors/actuators

Hello! I am in need of your help regarding my newly built Vcore 3.1 400 I'm using an EBB42 1.2 (wired using this guide https://os.ratrig.com/docs/toolboards/btt/ebb-42-12/) and an Octopus 1.1. The installation has been done with the RatOS configurator (selecting the boards properly). You can find my printer.cfg in the thread. What works: - thermistor reading (ok, fluctuating at the same time as the bed's one) - x endstop (I can home without problem and read the output in the console) - inductive probe (same) What does not work: - heater (I read 0V with the multimeter when I put 60°C instructions) - hotend fan (same, with M116 command) What I didn't test: - extruder (waiting for the hotend to work) My analysis: - EBB42 pinout is defined and linked to aliases in the EBB42 conf - it's imported in cascade up to the printer.cfg - we might have conflicts depending on the order of the imports, and the aliases are wrong Questions: - is there smg I missed in the conf? - are there other tests I can do to better understand the issue? - have you ever see such problem? Thanks a lot for your reading time 🙂 ```
28 Replies
blacksmithforlife
upload your entire printer.cfg
optimistic-gold
optimistic-gold11mo ago
Thanks! I didn't see the option when creating the post, much easier like this 🙂
blacksmithforlife
Your config looks ok to me. How do you have it wired up?
optimistic-gold
optimistic-gold11mo ago
the EBB42 is linked to the RPI4 via an USB cable, and in the heater case I just shoved the tester pins inside the heater plug 🙂
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blacksmithforlife
So you haven't run power lines to the EBB42?
optimistic-gold
optimistic-gold11mo ago
In red I connected the 24V PSU to it (I'll check the voltage right away) and in blue I've set the jumper to use USB 5V for board power.
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optimistic-gold
optimistic-gold11mo ago
Voltage is good, 24V
optimistic-gold
optimistic-gold11mo ago
The actual board
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blacksmithforlife
and you flashed the EBB42 with klipper?
optimistic-gold
optimistic-gold11mo ago
Yes 🙂 http://printer.local/configure Then flashed via the usb link
blacksmithforlife
maybe a silly question, you are sure it is the 1.2 version and not the 1.1 or 1.0?
optimistic-gold
optimistic-gold11mo ago
Il not really sure how to check it out without dis-assembling to be honest, but it crossed my mind... Do you have a tip to recognize it?
blacksmithforlife
sorry I don't, I don't even use a toolboard to be honest
optimistic-gold
optimistic-gold11mo ago
Np, I can flash as if 1.1 and try 😄 Will double check with my supplier! Thanks anyway 🙂
optimistic-gold
optimistic-gold11mo ago
1.2
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ptegler
ptegler11mo ago
WHERE did that nice wiring pic for the EBB42 come from?
optimistic-gold
optimistic-gold11mo ago
I might have SMG. The ebb42 is plugged in the RPI4, not the octopus board
ptegler
ptegler11mo ago
dooohl! realized that after I posted. just wish those pages had some refs to printer.cfg changes as well, for those converting. Some nice FROM: TO: references would be great Yes obviously there are a myriad of options based on hardware being used, but generics could be very valuable to mitigate repeated Q's here (like from this idiot... me that is)
optimistic-gold
optimistic-gold11mo ago
If I plug the ebb42 to the octopus board, I loose the CAN connection... So not the way to go? I reflashed the two boards without improvements No problem 🙂 Don't hesitate to suggest changes then! I think you can make a PR? A troubleshooting/QAs section could definitely help 😄 I feel like an idiot with this current issue lol, we can maybe make a club 😁
blacksmithforlife
https://os.ratrig.com/blog/no-you-dont-want-to-use-can with the next configurator it will make the config for you and you will no longer need to deal with it
optimistic-gold
optimistic-gold11mo ago
Interesting, it's written in the klipper logs that the can connection has been lost with the board when I plug it to the MCU. But it's definitely wired via USB. Thanks for the article, I learnt a good load of stuff 😄 A friend of mine who has the same conf told me the EBB42 should be plugged in the RPI (seems logical, but I really wanted to rule that out) Conf seems good too... Flashing was redone. Maybe reinstall RatOS but I don't really see the link... And the testing the hardware for faults. I'm thinking wiring all pins to a same alias that I could trigger with a gcode command like m116
adverse-sapphire
adverse-sapphire11mo ago
Are using a “USB-C v3.1 or greater” cable? Did you try a different cable or shorter one to just test for different results?
optimistic-gold
optimistic-gold11mo ago
Ah! It's not clearly specified https://amzn.eu/d/0v7uEs6 So I'll fetch one which specifically says 3.1 For the length, it's the shortest that does the job.
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optimistic-gold
optimistic-gold11mo ago
Will keep you posted when I have the new one, thanks 😄 Nope, not changing a thing 😄
adverse-sapphire
adverse-sapphire11mo ago
Bummer. Hopefully will be rebuilding my hot end this weekend with one and will see if I have anything similar.
conventional-tan
conventional-tan11mo ago
Have you tried removing the 5v jumper? I thought that the 24v powers the board as well, and the usb power is mainly for the first flash (same as the octopus boards work). But I’m not 100% sure. Oh, and also check the end stop wiring. I saw someone say that they had theirs backwards and it stopped the board from booting.
optimistic-gold
optimistic-gold11mo ago
It's funny, I've just had the conclusion that the board was damaged because it cannot work with the 5V jumper removed 😄 Thanks for your answer! I've checked that in cas but nope ^^ I just think the board is toast. I've wired the printer without and everything works... I'll make clean wiring diagrams for my printer, I'll share them here for doc sakes 🙂