still not a good result after the conversion
I completely disassembled my V-Core and realigned the frame, converted the gantry to dual rail and gave the v-core height-adjustable feet (because the floor it's standing on is a bit crooked)
I loosened the screws of the dual rail and the Y rails again and tightened them again, unfortunately there were hardly any changes here either
maybe someone here has a tip on how I could do the mesh better
21 Replies
sensitive-blue•11mo ago
Honestly a .228 is pretty good deviation for a large printer, that's about what I have on my 500. If you really need to get better than that you'll probably have to pad out that low spot slightly
since the wave is pretty much constant across X, I have to believe it is how perfectly straight you have both rails, and how matched your tightening of the screws to the little blocks. You can easily create a 'wave' in the rail, from block to block. You could even try (while mounted) swap a couple blocks between rails from the X200 range and X50 range or so. (tiny variations in block sizes)
like-gold•11mo ago
@killerelite1213 I'm really not very happy with it as it's really very uneven
@ptegler I ordered more blocks and measured all of them. No block has a higher deviation than 0.02mm, but since the unevenness is constant at this point, it is obvious that something is wrong
maybe it will help if I just use fewer blocks
the idea to just move a couple blocks around and see if the WAVE changes. Heck, just remove the one block at x200 (210 whatever) and see what happens
like-gold•11mo ago
I'll try it later and report
like-gold•11mo ago
I swapped the blocks but nothing really happened
then i measured all of them dismantled and installed 6 that have exactly the same size, but it made the mesh worse
like-gold•11mo ago
So I installed all the blocks in reverse order, all tightened with 0.5NM from left to right
Have the bed heated to 80 degrees and waited 30 minutes and the result is almost unchanged
Does anyone have any ideas what it could be?
perhaps, but it did what I expected...the wave shifted along the X axis.
That's telling me the linear rails themselves are not (assembled) perfectly straight. One or the other has a bow in it. It not clamped to a straight edge during assy, you will always have a bow with nothing else to align the rail (no continuous structure to 'stretch' along)
like-gold•11mo ago
@ptegler why postponed? it always stays in the same place
a larger deviation cannot be measured they are all in the hundredth range between 0.01 and 0.03
sorry... was going by memory (so i thought) should have looked back at the previous pics...I though the X peak had shifted a bit
like-gold•11mo ago
no problem
I turned the rails to test it, but the mesh hasn't changed, so I don't know what to do anymore 🙈
Then it appears it's the bed itself! Is this the raw plate? or mag sheet and print bed?
like-gold•11mo ago
@ptegler it is the plate with New mag sheet and New printbed
The reason I ask is it could be the mag sheet itself that is not flat. You can add layers of kapton or metal foil tape to the top of the mag sheet under the print bed to raise the x0-x100 range at least and test
lay one strip front to rear along x50 y0-y400 then WAG lay one strip diagnally across the left rear corner say.... x0y250 to x250y400 and test (not stuck down yet) move the strips around and repeat then peel and stick as desired
like-gold•11mo ago
@ptegler yeah I heard about this method but alot of ppl say that is not a good idea
no idea why. If not, you're left with removing the mag sheet, testing the raw bed to validate flatness, then re-installing a new mag sheet. I've not ever heard negative here. I use kapton tape myself, , and it has held up for nearly a year now without issue.
People have even 3d printed a sparse matrix a couple layers thick (till they are printing flat) then laid that matrix directly on the mag sheet under the print sheet to level it.
like-gold•10mo ago
@ptegler okay, thanks for the tips I will try it with capton tape
genetic-orange•10mo ago
If you have a machinist square and feeler gauges its not difficult to determine whether its actually the bed
but after 11 days this might come too late haha!
even simpler than a feeler gauge..... with a known good straight edge..... on edge lay it on the bed with a flashlight behind it. If you can see light under the straight edge, between straight edge and bed, you know you have an issue.
genetic-orange•10mo ago
well yes, but light creeps through immeasurable gaps and makes it look like its much more. Ive seen light come through where a 0.03mm feeler would not even fit. At least with the feeler gauges you'll know how much it actually is.
it's not just that light may get through, it's the consistency. also it sounds like you need a better straight edge! he he
when I put thiese on my VC500 https://discord.com/channels/582187371529764864/1056263255842099331/1056646821683937470
a straight edge down the edge of the bed yields zero light