M
mfad16mo ago
mr.mister

Where can you buy a suit that isn't aggressively slim?

I've been starting to look for a sand/light tan suit for my summer wedding in Santa Barbara next year, and one thing I know is that I'd like a more traditional cut of suit than I was going for a few years back when I had to wear suits for work. The general consensus seems to be that slim suits and narrow lapels have been on the outs for a while, so I've been surprised at how hard it is to find a label/designer that works in this style. Would love any recommendations on where to look... Obviously the ease and cost-effectiveness of something like the SuitSupply MTM program is attractive, but having owned their suits and gone through tailoring with them before, I know they lean rather fitted. If there's a way to avoid trying to fit a square peg into a round hole with them, I'm curious to hear it.
17 Replies
gimp
gimp16mo ago
There's a difference between aggressively slim, and just slim/fitted. Suitsupply is indeed slim, but there's no reason to get their suits extra slim. And their lapels aren't too slim. Same with a number of other makers like spier&mackay, who likes wide lapels and slim fit suits. Otherwise, look into brooks brothers, j crew (not ludlow, they have a wider fit, forget the name), for example I imagine Ralph Lauren (Polo etc) should have something decent Old samuelsohn is no more, the new one changed to worse factories Todd Snyder might have something. I bet Sid Mashburd does. Canali should. Depending on your budget, we can go up in price. Lots of Italian makers should have a more classic cut than slim, but many of them just charge more. Same for places like The Armoury.
mr.mister
mr.mister16mo ago
These are great, thanks. Definitely flex on price, would aim to keep it sub-$2,000, but I'm finding that lighter colored suits are a lot more niche than I expected, so I'm keeping an open mind on what I might spend.
Bigelow
Bigelow16mo ago
Kent Wang can make you a MTM suit for ~$1k
awburkey
awburkey16mo ago
I really like my Hall Madden MTM suits
mr.mister
mr.mister16mo ago
Oh this actually looks perfect, and they have a physical location in my city. Thanks so much!
gimp
gimp16mo ago
Sub-$2k makes the budget a lot easier to fit into. There's a lot of 'C's from Italy. Canali, Caruso, Corneliani, for example.
mr.mister
mr.mister16mo ago
Have looked into these and they make beautiful stuff, but I haven't seen anything from them that fits what I'm looking for in terms of fabric composition/color.
gimp
gimp16mo ago
Fair enough. Are you thinking linen? Wool? Wool-silk-linen?
mr.mister
mr.mister16mo ago
Yeah, ideally a wool blend with either linen, silk, or both. Or just a lightweight wool.
g2x222
g2x22216mo ago
Spier and Mackay contemporary cut is definitely more traditional Also look at the armoury and ring jacket for rtw options
gimp
gimp16mo ago
S&M contemporary cut is honestly still pretty slim, their two cuts are pretty much "slim" and "slimmer," but they do make decent stuff.
awburkey
awburkey16mo ago
Spier fits me great but it’s v slim in the waist
g2x222
g2x22216mo ago
I tried on a spier contemporary cut last week and it was p boxy
mr.mister
mr.mister16mo ago
This is the perception I've gotten as well from comparison posts.
Benji
Benji16mo ago
@gimp what happened to samuelsohn? It still says made in canada on the website (they switched to another factory in canada?). I was thinking of getting a MTM sportjacket from there in the future
gimp
gimp16mo ago
It's a long story, gotta google samuelsohn and hickey freeman and rochester tailoring company But basically their quality just isn't the same, is all you gotta really know. They used to be the maker for good stuff.
Benji
Benji16mo ago
@gimp I can't find anything except that hickey freeman production is moving to Mexico and no longer done by samuelsohn or the rochester factory (now rochester tailoring company)?
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