I have Stickly disabled, and I'm trying the Default setting in DCS. Maybe the switch thing that the
I have Stickly disabled, and I'm trying the Default setting in DCS. Maybe the switch thing that the other gentleman mentioned is my issue.
NIf you've been flying helis in MSFS... you may need to disable sticky (Haha.. nvm)
Nhttps://docs.google.com/document/d/1YL5DLkiTxlaNx_zKHEYSs25PjmGtQ6_WZDk58_SGt8Y/edit#heading=h.uc6h2nwcqoka the doc should have what you need to get it working in DCS (and specifically with the Huey)
TIs FFB still broken on the gazelle? or is there a combination of settings that makes it work
BI spent my first Rhino/DCS time in the Gazelle, after not touching DCS for over two years. It is unflyable and I can't figure out why. The collective behaves very strangely, unlike that in the UH-1. I loved the Gazelle even with the old, widely cursed flight model, but something ain't right somewhere.
AMake sure to put the curve/gain in Gaz special settings to zero
TI think I had that set. Selecting None for the trimmer mode makes the rhino go back to the center on trim release. Selecting Instant, it drags it off to the side the more I release the trim button
KYou need to go to Special tap, there is (I think No 5) a extra option for FFB for this Modul. make sure it is ticked
KThe Gazelle flies perfecly fine for me, just did 4 hours in Multicrew in it
TDo you mean the "Module individual force feedback toggle"?
TThat and Instant trim seems to have done the trick, thanks!
HIs there a way to get Virpil analog sticks/thumb wheels working when connected to the Rhino? Specifically the VFX, but looking at the FAQ it's not supported yet. Was hoping to get the analog DLC working, but guess that's later.
WIt's implemented already
HThanks walmis
S@walmis new adapter worked flawlessly. thank you!
WAwesome. Looks like I nailed the issues.
SGood morning mates. A fast question. I am build the base for my FFB motors. I wonder what is better for the Cyclic Base. Be 2 parts? Or one part? And why?
WIt needs to be able to rotate in the center otherwise there will be a gimbal lock when moving diagonally
SS@walmis i guess you mean this here
Wyes indeed
Ssorry video is not working.oh i have not think about it
Sso we tight it with a nut and ready?
S
WYeah those parts need to have a bearing in between and clamped down tight so there is no play
SThanks a lot for you help 
TThis didn’t make sense to me either when I was printing mine because the nut is on the wrong side to secure the bearings. I ended up redesigning so the bearings sit on a spacer and the bolt goes all the way through with enough threads to put the nut on the grip side of the bearings. Works great.
TI made the recess for the bolt shoulder deeper and made the top profile of the center section longer to move the bolt closer to the grip end. Used a washer for the spacer and secured the nut from the grip end.
Sso you used a bigger screw and moved the but to the end of the bolt?
TWhere the green arrow is pointing in your picture I extended that shoulder so there was a just enough gap for a washer (can’t remember, M6 I believe?). Then on the other end in increased the depth of the recess so that the bolt length doesn’t need to change.
TI used the Mabo base though and I don’t remember that cylinder that is coming out of the cutaway in your image.
TThis cylinder indicated by the red arrow was not on my version of the base.
AI guess that the cylinder at the red arrow is only an auxiliary object to illustrate the axes.
AThe green arrow pointe to a hexagon nut with flange
TI didn’t delve into the design of the Alu extrusion stick base too much so wasn’t sure if it was native to the design. I believe this is the “Farm” base or similar.
Thanks for posting yours on GitHub, it really helped me get started!
Thanks for posting yours on GitHub, it really helped me get started!
SMy iteration of Mabo's original design.
60mm M5 bolt
Nuts under bearings and on top to keep it snug.
Since I like to over build and since I had some clicking due to movement (which turned out to be main gimbal bearings moving), the orange under the bearings is a tpu spacer.
Smooth as silk and quiet
60mm M5 bolt
Nuts under bearings and on top to keep it snug.
Since I like to over build and since I had some clicking due to movement (which turned out to be main gimbal bearings moving), the orange under the bearings is a tpu spacer.
Smooth as silk and quiet
THi everyone. I need a second opinion. I am using the 86BLF03 motors and as such could not find a design online which I could use. So I am planning to redesign Mambo’s solution and adjust the design to make space for the larger motors. Because I will use it to fly helicopters exclusively, I am thinking to upgrade the 70 tooth pulley to a 90 tooth one to ensure that especially the small movements will be recognized. Any thoughts?
Sto get the finest movement resolution possible, use whatever ratio is equal to making the motor pulley just about complete a full revolution. an example with easy numbers: if your full stick travel is 36deg, 360/36 = 10:1. A 90t pulley to a 9t motor pulley would match, but you can use a 10t on the motor to keep it under a full rotation so there's no power-on issue with centering.
TWhen you speak about the travel degree is it the total movement from front to back?
S36 degrees isn’t too much? Usually travel is around 20-25. Right?
TNote that the 86series have a 1/2" shaft, and the smallest off the shelf pulley I found for that was 15T (for 5M). So to get 10:1 you're going to need a big pulley on the other end. I'm curious how much of a difference such a ratio would make? I've got my base at about 6.6:1, with a +/- 15° throw and that gets me a little over 1000 steps in each direction. Even with the longish extension I have, that works out to a single step of the ADC being about 100microns movement of the grip. I can't reliably make a motion of the stick small enough to move only one step. But maybe I'm just a bad pilot...! I also haven't tried helicopters, but will soon.
SSo which is a good ratio for helicopters? For a grip with extension about 40cm.
RI printed 12* limiters and it’s perfect for my 32cm extension
Si just used 36 to make the math easy to show, you can put in whatever numbers your stick moves
SDumb question: no matter how much I tighten it, it seems that the winwing adapter has a bit of play on the rotational axis: is this intended?
WLooks like the cup edge reaches the top attachment first and there's no friction lock. What kind of extension is that?
WProbably easiest would be to print a 1mm spacer/washer to put in between the adapter and extension
JWalmis, as I was thinking about my DIY build I am still planning, I asked myself if the control board has a certain maximum resolution of the output current and thus the output force? With the total pulley ratio that might make my force resolution especially in the lower quarter I would most often only use quite stepp-ish.
Just wondering if it is possible to quantizise this.
Just wondering if it is possible to quantizise this.
WCurrently positional resolution is 4096 steps/rev, output current resolution is not dependent on input resolution (internally it's in 10mA steps)
JThanks!
ADoes TelemFFB also need an updating along with the .15 FFB Configurator or has something changed with regards to periodic effects?
