Flannel Trouser Fit Sense Checks
Hey All! I’m dreaming of winter at the moment given the heatwave and wanted to start thinking about building some flannel trousers via Proper Cloth
I’m attaching a few pictures of a pair of Spier and Mackay high-rise high twist trousers I have from this season that I’d like to build off of. Based on the pictures, are there any other tweaks (in addition to or in opposition to) the ones I’ve outlined below that might help me get a better fit?
1. Decrease the front rise slightly - although I enjoy a high rise, these feel slightly too high (firmly an inch above my navel) given I won’t always have the opportunity to wear with a jacket.
2. Slightly widen the leg and hem - these feel a touch slim on my frame. Nothing crazy, but
3. Slightly drop the hem - These are probably fractions of a cm too short
4. Take in the waist - I’m maxing out the pull tabs on these. I’ll also replace those pills with some belt loops too for good measure
5. Potentially ditch the pleats - I feel like mine splay open and I’m not 100% sure how to tweak to fix this. If anyone has any ideas, I’m open as I think the pleats help break up the higher rise
Would love some feedback / sense checks. Happy to provide more pictures as needed (apologies for my tiny cluttered apartment backdrop)
9 Replies
Splayed open pleats, as far as I know, just means that the trousers aren't cut with enough room for you. Part of the benefit of the pleats is that as you move, sit, stand, etc, they can allow more space when needed; you've basically just got ... non-pleated trousers :P
Ha, I completely agree and see what you mean - hence my thought of dropping the pleats. I have a feeling my large seat vs waist makes it much harder to get pleats that function…
I am no tailor but I suspect if you get measured properly you can get proper pleats
That’s kind of the point of pleats. They allow for extra fabric in the top block without throwing off the waist.
Hmm maybe it’s just S&M’s contemporary cut still being too slim then, making it too imperfect of a pair to go off of
Yeah I always had to size up and have the waist taken in but you may be able to have the seat let out. It looks like they are snug on your hips because the pockets are flaring a touch.
Definitely. I think when I got the waist taken in, my tailor took the seat in as well, which may be the root cause of this. I’ll have to see if I have an pictures before the tailoring to see if that wasn’t an issue before alterations. A 38 was just too big in the waist to the point that it was going to cause issues with the pockets when taking in the waist
I may try J.Press or somewhere with a more traditional cut and see if I can adjust from there
Did your tailor take it in from the back rise seam? I think there’s a way to add darts above the back pockets which should give you a bit more wiggle room
I believe he did. I’ll have to look into that as an option! He’s since retired, so will need to find someone else first