M
mfad13mo ago
Benji

suit fit

My feeling is that this suit jacket is too small but I'd like to hear other's opinions and any advice on potential alterations. Paging Mr @gimp Thank you!
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63 Replies
Benji
Benji13mo ago
Ughh I look too young in this photo
Elvander
Elvander13mo ago
Until @gimp shows up. You’d need a full length pic for a better take. Waist and shoulders look ok. Sleeves, buttoning point might suggest you need the L version of this size but hard to tell with the legs cropped.
hubert
hubert13mo ago
sir you need to be over thirteen years old to use discord buttoning point seems a bit too high and it’s hard to tell if it’s too long/short given the picture. I wouldn’t say that completely ruins it though given your height Other than that it seems to fit good. A picture of the back would reveal more. The only other thing I see is a bit of excess fabric around the waist which suggests that it’s a hair too big
SquillyFerrell
SquillyFerrell13mo ago
I agree with those saying the jacket seems short, I would go up to the L but obviously would like to see the trousers and also a comparison between the R and L. Based on the pic I would disagree that it looks too big since it looks like the fabric isnt pooling at the waist but rather pulling although that could be a trick of the light-- if you lift your arms up level with the ground, or lean over, does it pull or bunch up? Is it tight anywhere? sometimes that can also be fixed going from R to L, the armhole tends to be larger which for some peoele (like me) can be an issue with an R jacket
Benji
Benji13mo ago
Thank you!!! I wonder if it can be altered to not pull and check if there is fabric to increase the length, think I'll take it to this very reputable tailor not far from me Yes I believe it does unfortunately I think I'll hold off until I have a definite need for a full suit on my calendar but I'm curious if spier size 34R or 36R fits better (the suit here is 34S) Spier recommends 36 when I input my specs which sort of surprises me If the Spier 36 is too large but the spier 34 is too small, it may actually make more sense to go MTM... Well the cost of MTM is $800 which is significantly more even if the Spier suit would need a lot of tailoring
Elvander
Elvander13mo ago
If you’re wearing the S in that pic just try the R In the same size You’re not far off
SquillyFerrell
SquillyFerrell13mo ago
yeah going to an R may fix some of the fit issues
Benji
Benji13mo ago
Thank you!
Elvander
Elvander13mo ago
I wouldn’t go MTM for years yet
Benji
Benji13mo ago
How slim is spier contemporary?
Elvander
Elvander13mo ago
Middle age will wipe out your MTM wardrobe
SquillyFerrell
SquillyFerrell13mo ago
36 also may just be a better fit, you generally want a good bit of room in the jacket
Benji
Benji13mo ago
Spier does recommend 36 contemporary, though my other suit is 36 and very large on me (unrelatedly also has issues with the length cause it's S)
Elvander
Elvander13mo ago
Their recommendations are averages It’s not surprising if it doesn’t make sense on you. The measurements are more important and your experience with their block and how it fits
SquillyFerrell
SquillyFerrell13mo ago
spier also just fits very very slim even on slim builds they fit slim
Benji
Benji13mo ago
Ok spier has free returns for the first purchase The other issue is that 34 is always out of stock from what I've seen
Elvander
Elvander13mo ago
Anything below 36 in a western brand is gold dust Even 36 is harder to find I’ve gone from 34 to 40 over the years and 38/40 is way easier to source
Benji
Benji13mo ago
Ugh I hope armoury has a sample sale soon Last time, I see they brought a lot of HK stock which could include regular ring jacket size 34
Elvander
Elvander13mo ago
Asian brands are definitely your friend
sinbad
sinbad13mo ago
Highest def benji pic so letsfuckinggo
Benji
Benji13mo ago
I look terrible in this pic, pls ignore 😭
SquillyFerrell
SquillyFerrell13mo ago
Fr, like going from hubble to web
gimp
gimp13mo ago
I'll weigh in later when I have some time But lots of good advice here Where did you get this jacket and is it already altered? Part of a suit?
Benji
Benji13mo ago
it was altered when I bought it (not sure what they did). It's part of a suit made by mantoni
gimp
gimp13mo ago
I guess my question is, is this a keep, return, or resell, for you? Advice is different depending on different options
awburkey
awburkey13mo ago
The jacket is too short Hard to tell much of anything else due to the lighting Spier is slim in the sense of if you have a stomach at all the waist will be too slim. They will fit you just fine You probably don't need to go MTM. I'd at least actually try on a ton of stuff since you live in NYC if you really do need a suit Also if it's a suit, where are the pants?
Benji
Benji13mo ago
I've had this suit for a yr now so can't return. My thinking is that if it can't be tailored to fit, then I'll have to sell it I didn't put them on, sorry! I think the pants are too slim as well unfortunately
awburkey
awburkey13mo ago
What's the jacket/suit?
Benji
Benji13mo ago
Mantoni
awburkey
awburkey13mo ago
Yeah Spier will likely be a similar-ish fit just based on looks but might have a better jacket length. I'd compare the measurements of that jacket against their size chart
gimp
gimp13mo ago
Throw the pants on and get some better lighting. At the very least you can stand with the overhead light in front of you instead of in back? But outside is better
Benji
Benji13mo ago
Will do! Very helpful, thank you.
gimp
gimp13mo ago
It's definitely a fair bit short but, well. You own it. If you got it second-hand I would strongly consider catch and release. If you got it new... you may feel you get more value out of it altered and a bit short, than sold for 20% of new value. You could always lean into "people don't know what a short jacket is anyways, fuck it" ... though as a serious suit it is somewhat flawed because of that, you're unlikely to see any real consequences from wearing it :P I guess I am trying to be peppy about it. (Because it's not, like, outright bad or anything. By modern standards.)
Benji
Benji13mo ago
Thank you!! My feeling is I'll have to sell it for a big loss 😦 First I'll bring it to the tailor so he can check if there is somehow a lot of fabric for the length to be adjusted A lil peeved that I was sold this too small suit back when I didn't know what I was doing
awburkey
awburkey13mo ago
Adjusting length is almost certainly not worth it It’s difficult, expensive, and doesn’t address the issues that are introduced by changing the length like where the pockets are and the button stance
Benji
Benji13mo ago
I need to post a new photo but if miraculously everything could be fixed, wouldn't it be better to spend $100-150 on tailoring than getting a $375 spier suit Are the pockets and button stance definitely impossible to tailor?
awburkey
awburkey13mo ago
Nothing is “impossible” it’s just prolly not worth it Up to you ultimately. If the length doesn’t bother you then nbd. It’s fairly subtle anyway
Benji
Benji13mo ago
Got it, thank you It does tbh, this is meant to be my serious suit for weddings and interviews
awburkey
awburkey13mo ago
Literally no one will notice
Benji
Benji13mo ago
Yeah but I want to look sharp (for me lol)
Benji
Benji13mo ago
Great Neck Tailor · 70 Middle Neck Rd Suite 1, Great Neck, NY 11021
Great Neck Tailor · 70 Middle Neck Rd Suite 1, Great Neck, NY 11021
★★★★★ · Tailor
Benji
Benji13mo ago
This guy has superb reviews. I'll take a better pic and then assess whether I should consult with him
awburkey
awburkey13mo ago
Also, again, proper pics of the full suit would be helpful
gimp
gimp13mo ago
Lengthening is usually a fool's errand. Shortening the body is usually not much better. Post a full photo in good light with full kit and we'll tell you if it's thumbs up or thumbs down. You're not out there to make hashtag-menswear people happy (unless that is your specific goal), but to make you happy -- and to show intent that you have an adequate and reasonable amount of respect for the occasion.
Benji
Benji13mo ago
Well tbh I am here to make hashtag-menswear people happy 😂 That would make me happy 😂
gimp
gimp13mo ago
The last one is tricky and being "perfectly correct" makes it easier, given that "perfectly correct attire" is the most constructed of social constructs I can think of, but more or less as long as nobody is offended and people see you and their first and last thought is "looks good -- and looks proper" then that is a goal achieved. Well, only you can know what makes you happy!
awburkey
awburkey13mo ago
To be clear, "#menswear" is a specific look in menswear from around the like late 2000s to early/mid 2010s. It's not a meme in this context, it's actually a specific style within tailoring
Benji
Benji13mo ago
I thought that look was slim fit? Not the fuller look derek likes I'm looking to have a fuller classic look but soft shoulders
gimp
gimp13mo ago
Oh I might be using it wrong then @ll.beansandrice🫘 I meant "men online who care deeply about menswear details"
awburkey
awburkey13mo ago
Oh yeah, I guess it's not super common, but "#menswear" to me specifically evokes the peak of affected "Sprezzatura". V slim tailoring, pants with no break, aggressive taper. Double monks everywhere with no more than 2 of the buckles actually done. extremely busy patterns on the suits and pocket squares everywhere, etc.
awburkey
awburkey13mo ago
This kind of stuff
No description
awburkey
awburkey13mo ago
Not an ounce of drape between them You are correct, "#menswear" is a v slim and imo outdated (and bad even at the time) style
gimp
gimp13mo ago
hahaha well my bad
awburkey
awburkey13mo ago
np lol just wanted to clarify a bit
Benji
Benji13mo ago
No description
Benji
Benji13mo ago
Lol I don't think this suit works Oh whoops my collar isn't right, lemme take one more pic
Benji
Benji13mo ago
No description
awburkey
awburkey13mo ago
yeah it's far too short imo
sinbad
sinbad13mo ago
Guy on the right hitting his oil pen is killing me Nothing says sprezzatura like hitting ur weed pen
Aaron 🍍
Aaron 🍍13mo ago
The weed wand takes a wizard to magical lands
gimp
gimp13mo ago
Yeahhhhh I wanna be supportive but that's not my favorite look. I'd say keep it until you replace it with something else. The problem for me isn't just the length, but more so the button stance, it's quite odd. Too high by a solid 3-4 inches it looks like in this photo and also kind of pulling?
Benji
Benji13mo ago
Thank you!
awburkey
awburkey13mo ago
Imo it’s too high and pulling bc the jacket is short
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