Not sure here, but IL2 might not set SO_BROADCAST flag, even if the address is broadcast, so that mi
Not sure here, but IL2 might not set SO_BROADCAST flag, even if the address is broadcast, so that might cause issues.
NIt must, since multiple instances of TelemFFB work at the same time.
DSo does that mean you are able to get two instances of TelemFFB to work on IL2 (one for stick base, another one for say FFB rudder pedals )?
DWicked man, makes me more compelled to do the rudder pedal mod now since i have the Thrustmaster TPRs
D
NIL-2 doesnt understand FFB pedals and TelemFFB doesn't add any dynamic forces yet (so its just all the haptic effects). But I plan on extending it to at least implement dynamic spring force based on speed. There is not enough telemetry available from IL-2 to do anything more advanced.
N
DTake a look at Andres latest post ... Looks like he can fwd it.
https://forum.il2sturmovik.com/topic/57925-simshaker-wings-support-thread-for-il-2-users/page/23/#comment-1292475
https://forum.il2sturmovik.com/topic/57925-simshaker-wings-support-thread-for-il-2-users/page/23/#comment-1292475
NIf thats the case then you can send it to TelemFFB (127.255.255.255 port 34385). Then remove TelemFFBs config from the
Then disable the config validation in the TelemFFB config.
[telemetrydevice]motiondeviceThen disable the config validation in the TelemFFB config.
DVery cool and then just leave addr1 for srs
DMight want to create something like this port forwarding for your telemffb program for the same purpose as they have, you just continue port forwarding for all the ffb apps you want and none will be stuck and run out of ip/ports due to IL2 addr limitation.
Smy pitch motor isn't recentering as well as my roll motor. anyone got any tips?
Nwhat's your setup like? Heavy grip? Long extension? Offset extension? Depending on these things, you may need to adjust the "balance springs" to compensate. You can also use "adaptive recentering" to help keep the stick centered.
Sswap between the light f-14 grip and a heavy f-18 thrustmaster grip. They’re on a bent Virpil 200m extension.
After tightining some belt screws, it seems to better. No problems recentering with the DCS hornet. Recentering with the DCS Tomcat is sluggish.
I don't think it's a motor issue. I just don't know if my firmware is set incorrectly or if it's DCS
After tightining some belt screws, it seems to better. No problems recentering with the DCS hornet. Recentering with the DCS Tomcat is sluggish.
I don't think it's a motor issue. I just don't know if my firmware is set incorrectly or if it's DCS
RHey guys - I'm having an issue with my 1 week old Rhino. More specifically, I'm having an issue with my 1+ year old VKB MCG Ultimate grip connected to it via the included connector.
I was just tweaking my config and testing it ingame (DCS) with the F-14 doing some high-alpha manoeuvres with the stick shaking pretty harshly when I noticed the trim had stopped working. I checked my bindings, but they were fine. The grip, however, was not. Green light was out and and no inputs registered, neither in-game or in Windows or in the VKB config or button tester apps.
I have tried restarting my PC and re-starting my USB hub to no avail. I have tried moving the grip over to my old Gunfighter Mk3 and connecting that to the black box and voila... green light in the grip, all buttons registering. All good.
Moved it back to the Rhino... dead.
=/
This would suggest to me that the VKB adapter has died? The black box is still flashing red, fwiw.
I was just tweaking my config and testing it ingame (DCS) with the F-14 doing some high-alpha manoeuvres with the stick shaking pretty harshly when I noticed the trim had stopped working. I checked my bindings, but they were fine. The grip, however, was not. Green light was out and and no inputs registered, neither in-game or in Windows or in the VKB config or button tester apps.
I have tried restarting my PC and re-starting my USB hub to no avail. I have tried moving the grip over to my old Gunfighter Mk3 and connecting that to the black box and voila... green light in the grip, all buttons registering. All good.
Moved it back to the Rhino... dead.
=/
This would suggest to me that the VKB adapter has died? The black box is still flashing red, fwiw.
VBlackbox will always flash red, that's normal. With the adapter we are bypassing the controller in the blackbox so it flashing red doesn't mean the grip is broken
RRight. It was more to mention that the box is still alive. =)
VHowerver, if it was shaking hard and then stopped, did you try power cycling the Rhino? Even using e-stop should help. Happened to me once when I was fiddling with the effects with P-47, there was a lot of shaking and it went limp. Reverted the effects, cycled the rhino and all was good
RYes. I have both turned off the Rhino itself and the USB hub powering both the Rhino and the black box.
RHasn't helped, unfortunately.
RFor clarity - the Rhino is fine. That's not the thing that stopped working from the shaking. It's only the grip that stopped working. The Rhino just started the fans after a bit and that was it. It powered through the shaking without any issues. The grip is the one that stopped working from that treatment (I assume).
VSo when you connect the MGCU on the Rhino with the adapter, you get no green light on it anymore, but it works on the VKB base, right?
RCorrect, yes.
RI get an initial white light as the power comes on.
RBut it doesn't turn to green. It just goes off.
VThat is odd, almost like there's connectivity issue, grip not getting the power
RIndeed.
VI mean, I know that those contact pads and the pogo pins can work to their own demise with the pins gouging a hole in the pads making the contact worse. That's why I soldered the wires directly to the pads 
Can you check the pads on the adapter, make sure there are no such holes? Also if you don't tighten the grip to the adapter and you rotate it slightly does the connection restore?
Can you check the pads on the adapter, make sure there are no such holes? Also if you don't tighten the grip to the adapter and you rotate it slightly does the connection restore?
RYes!
RUndoing the grip tightening a little and rotating the grip did restore the connection!
RI have a green light once again!
RExperimenting a bit, it seems like there are some zones across the rotation of the grip that work and some that don't... to my dismay, putting it all the way to the stop doesn't work =/
VIf you can, put small bit of solder on the each pad (make sure not to bridge) to thicken them, that theoretically should help with maintaining the connection, but it's to be expected that eventual vibrations will work against it
RI see.
RThanks a million for the help!
RWhat a relief to get it working again... though it's a bummer it appears to be shaky/fragile =/.
When you say "apply a bit of solder", I assume you mean to let it also cool off before applying the grip on top?
When you say "apply a bit of solder", I assume you mean to let it also cool off before applying the grip on top?
RIs there anything else or more I can do to try to alleviate this whole issue?
VYeah, melt a bit of solder. By the time you do all three pads, put the soldering iron down and pick up the grip it'll be ready.
VAs for more permanent solution, only way I see it getting fixed is to solder the wires from the grip to the adapter. That is however, a destructive fix as you practically tie that grip to the adapter and the Rhino and I wouldn't recommend it unless you are absolutely sure about this
RYeah, I was afraid of that.
RThanks!
VNp, glad I could help
RI'll give the solder a go one of these days. Cheers! =)
DThis worked!
DIL2 SRS + VPForce Rhino + Buttkicker work together in IL2 BOS / Great Battles
DI would love to see a video of what you have going for FFB you have for the rudder pedals going in action! Does such a video exist?
TI'm sure this has been asked before, and my inability to search through previous posts is showing, but I wondered if someone could help me get force trim to work properly in the DCS Huey. For whatever reason, the trim input seems to double- so I hold the trim release button down and move the cyclic to the position I want to trim to, and release the button- at this point, the trim setting is moved to twice the input trim. This is annoying, as it largely defeats the purpose of force trim. I have DCS trim settings to FFB. Any help much appreciated- I love my Rhino, and I can see how the force trim working properly will really add to the experience- just frustrating to have this niggle.
Nsounds like you might not have FFB enabled at the DCS root level? The behavior your are describing is how the 'instant trim' works with non-FFB joysticks. This behavior changes when FFB is enabled.
BTW, with the Huey you want either "Instant Trim" or "default" (I forget which it is in the Huey). Don't be fooled by "joystick with no springs and FFB".. that works on a couple aircraft, but not all. The "instant trim" or "default" is the correct one that will work on all helicopters.
BTW, with the Huey you want either "Instant Trim" or "default" (I forget which it is in the Huey). Don't be fooled by "joystick with no springs and FFB".. that works on a couple aircraft, but not all. The "instant trim" or "default" is the correct one that will work on all helicopters.
TFBB is enabled, and default is selected in the Huey- I checked both before replying here. Trim doubles!
WAlso make sure no curves are set in DCS axis configuration