The tailor ruined my db suit. new tailors are suggesting to move the buttons as a fix.
So I had the waist taken in on the jacket and my lapels were buckling and the "quarters" were uneven (front bits, I know dbs don't have quarters). I brought it up multiple times with the original tailor but he insisted that I needed to bring it to a dry cleaners to have it pressed. I don't have much experience with alterations etc, but I could tell this wasnt adding up so I went to a different tailor.
I brought the jacket to the new tailor and they could immediately tell the waist was taken in incorrectly (not through the back seam) resulting in pulling and pushing on the fabric causing bumps and lumps. Therefore, the new tailor's is suggesting that the buttons be moved on my 6 button db suit. Will this look weird? If it fixes the fit of it, will that make up for the oddity of buttons not aligning as they should?
Would love some thoughts on this! Its a decent suit I got second hand for very cheap, so I am happy I am learning through this suit rather than a new or better suit.
I have attached the results from the first round of alterations from the original tailor. I am now waiting for the second tailor to attempt to fix the issues.
8 Replies
I’m a bit confused because generally speaking the waist is taken in at the sides (not sure if DBs are different). I’m a bit surprised to hear that some waist suppression threw off the chest as it actually looks good from the buttons down. Not really helpful info but generally speaking that type of fit issue is caused by the chest being too small and not the waist.
It’s almost like they started the suppression at the arm hole in which case I would imagine another solid could undo it
oh man this is definitely beyond me as well
LL: Waist can be taken in at side seams and at back seam(s). Where you take it in and how depends on what you're trying to do. If you have a great back and wide front, that's different from a great front and too much in the back. https://journal.styleforum.net/alterations-seam-allowances-tailoring/
The problem with taking in the waist at the sides is that oftentimes the side seam runs into the pocket or is very close to the pocket, so the back seam is often the first one that gets tried. But there are more options beyond this, depending on how the jacket is made
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Seam Allowances: a Guide to Alterations in Tailoring | The Stylefor...
Seam allowances are our friends when it comes to altering tailored garments. However, there are limits to what one can alter. Let's take a look at what a good tailor is going to be able to do with your garments - both ready-to-wear and bespoke.
Regarding moving buttons on the DB. So, there are 6, of which 2 are functional. (Even if only one of the two is intended to be used.) The functional holes cannot be moved, but all six of the buttons can in theory be moved. Their position is restricted by the functional buttonholes, but other than that, they can be moved. As long as it looks good...?
Honestly, I am a little concerned by the strategy, but I don't know enough to have a real reason for why it's going to be the good way to go or not. Sorry
I'd try styleforum tailor feedback thread.
I am most concerned about the chest area. Unsure how that can be fixed or how.
Yeah I knew it was possible I just thought it was saved as a secondary option to the side seems (like if you needed extra fabric taken in)
I would say it depends on the jacket and what's being fixed. I've had a few taken in and some we did back, some side, some both.
Plus some jackets are made with a single piece back instead of a seam down the middle of the back, so that changes things obviously
Thanks for the feedback guys! Sorry my app doesnt actually let me know when comments have been left in here and I forgot to check, good shout on trying to get feedback from a tailor on styleforum.
The second tailors spoke disapprovingly of the original tailor, so I can see how maybe they didn't necesarily do the correct thing in the first place. The area directly under my arm definitely felt very tight and, today at the new tailors, they commented on how the seam all the way up to my arm had been tampered with
I would speak disapprovingly too because I can see the results, but I can't tell you how it might be fixed