move by 0.1mm for mesh alignment
attached is my first bed mesh after adjusting tension on a 400 enclosed ( panels not installed yet)
I believe A is back left, D is back right — Please correct me if I have the wrong interpretation of orientation.
B gantry attachment needs to move up 0.08 mm and
C gantry attachment needs to move down 0.16mm
How do I move the attachment in a controlled way for 0.10 mm ? I can put tape to mark, but not sure how to see 0.1mm of movement
I have some 900 mm and 1200mm woodworking bar clamps so idea is to partially loosen the bolts on T attachment plate, tighten clamp to raise gantry arm and stop when it makes some contact. Probably still more than 0.1mm move.
To move down, I could loosen the screws, let gravity move the arm a teeny bit and simply tighten again. Any other/ better ideas ?
To move down, I could loosen the screws, let gravity move the arm a teeny bit and simply tighten again. Any other/ better ideas ?
8 Replies
A is front left, D is front right. You can tell from you X and Y scale (0 Y is front, 400 back, 0 X is left)
B and C should move, however it is much easier to move A and D (the front) than the back due to the motor mounts etc...
It is pretty well explained in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h7ZTq2dDTkM
For how, I just loosened the screws on the Plate I wanted to adjust, and tapped the extrusion with a hammer. Use some plastic / wood in between if you dont have a rubber mallet. Dont whack your linear rails.
Then tighten (not fully tho) and do another z-tilt and mesh
3D Printers & a Whiteboard
YouTube
RatRig V-Core 3: How to Get a Square Frame
This video is for those who struggle getting bed meshed with their RatRig V-Core 3.
Please feel free to jump to the chapter you are interested in.
0:00 Intro
1:05 about the v-core 3 frame and bed leveling
8:26 what to take care of in the building phase
9:17 the right square
10:09 build tips
16:50 adjusting the frame according to your bed mesh
...
Thanks for correcting the axis labeling. Somehow I thought y=0 was at the back.
With the extra extrusion for the enclosure, I think they are going to move easier than in the video. Tapping with hammer seems like it is going to move a hanging extrusion way too much.
With the extra extrusion for the enclosure, I think they are going to move easier than in the video. Tapping with hammer seems like it is going to move a hanging extrusion way too much.
You still have the motor mounts and the extrusion from the electronics compartment attached, so moving the front is probably still easier, but yea of course you can also adjust the back. Keep in mind tho that Z-tilt adjusts the three corners, so you cant tell from the mesh which corner actually is too high or too low, just their relative position. It will always show the tilt at the back due to the one Z axis in the middle.
I just adjusted the front and it worked quite nice. I didnt fully loosen the screws as I didnt want my extrusions to slide away, and then some light tapping with a hammer had less of an effect than I thought. But its better to be careful, so start slow and try it with your hand or something lighter first
Wood clamp works great. Use marker to make fine silver line on extrusion, tighten clamp to hold in place, loosen bolts and then lightly tighten one by one. Managed to move about 0.2mm and now have this mesh. Is this good enough?
So you used the clamps to pull the extrusion up? thats a nice idea, and more exact than whacking 😄
I would say 0.127 on a 400 is very good
Thanks for confirming mesh is good.
Woodworking clamps worked great. The 3ft clamp was 1 inch too short so used 4ft clamp. In the other direction I used 2ft clamp. Opposing clamps with finger tight on handle. Then loosened one to get a slight movement.