Why does this gitman vintage shirt turtle in the back with extra fabric ?

My tailor said she can’t put darts in cause its tight in the hips. Is it supposed to have alot of fabric in the back? I think it looks great in the front but not so great in the back.
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7 Replies
awburkey
awburkey5mo ago
Looks like not enough fabric tbh. It’s so tight when you reach your arm across
exploretopher
exploretopher5mo ago
Thats when I fully try to hug myself. And it isnt that tight when I do that compared to other business shirts I own. I am a 39 inch chest and this is a size medium. If i noticed pulling in the buttons I would say its too tight there. Who makes a slim fitting ocbd that is good quality? Maybe Taylor stitch?
awburkey
awburkey5mo ago
Could always try MTM if you’re really picky about fit I think your tailor is right tho. The hips are too tight which is why it’s laying funny
Nacho
Nacho5mo ago
Yeah, if you're picky about the fit I can recommend Proper Cloth MTM
exploretopher
exploretopher5mo ago
Yea I have tried mtm and didnt really have a good experience with proper. The clothing seemed kinda poorly put together.
awburkey
awburkey5mo ago
Weird, I've not had that experience with them at all
gimp
gimp5mo ago
Yeah, I kind of see this problem often. It really depends on how you like shirts to fit. People want to have a smooth sleek back when tucked in, and also be comfortable to move around. Problem is, if it's smooth and clean against your back when tucked in, meaning there's almost no excess fabric, then it's tight to move around in. More comfort, more fabric, which looks fine until you tuck in the shirt and move around all day and it billows out above the belt ... So, some solutions to that are: use garters to connect socks to shirt, to keep it pulled down; or just don't take off your jacket. Your shirt is a bit odd in that it has extra space on the back but not much on the hips. If this isn't your preferred fit I would probably look for another maker / size / cut. In the meantime, get the garters and it'll look better when tucked in; I bet your tailor is right in that it's not gonna work well to add a dart to the mid back. Take all of what I wrote with a grain of salt though. I may well be wrong