Pitting after switching to 0.6mm nozzle
Switched to a 0.6mm nozzle (came from 0.4mm) with a Phaetus Rapido.
I've changed the nozzle size in the printer.cfg, orcaslicer, etc.
I calibrated my E-steps, pressure advance, Flow (EM), and all my little test cubes look good.
Material is PETG in a filament dryer, 270* and 60* bed.
I know I'm overlooking something here...
37 Replies
Try lower temp 270 seems too high for Petg I can print some brands at 235
Decreasing the temperature seems to have made it worse.
I'm wondering if I need to increase the line width for the support. That's all support material there.
Line width did very little. Increased the temp back to 260 for the speeds
I slowed the speed down to 50% towards the top of this single wall print and the print quality improved:
I wonder if the increase in diameter means that the PETG filament is molten for longer and sags because of it?
I had no skipping from the extruder
Change back to 0.4 nozzle or to different 0.6. Might just be the nozzle producing these issues
I’ll try that! I have an extra 0.6
No real improvement with a different 0.6mm nozzle
Go back to 0.4
Did you change in klipper the nozzle size?
Yeah, I changed it to 0.6mm.
Ran a Max Flow test up to 50mm3, it’s super clean!
Especially for PETG
I ordered a 0.4mm volcano today, I'll try that next. I still wonder if it's just not enough cooling.
That looks clean
Yeah, seems to be something to do with temp
If it's rapido 2.0 maybe your temp sensor is not screwed in properly?
I’m having similar problems with this hot end. if it’s not screwed in correctly will it report a higher temperature?
I hear popping coming from my extruder, despite the fact I have it set to 240C. And I’m suffering from under extrusion.
It will report a lower temperature than the hotend is actually at. And it will change randomly which will cause the pid controller to malfunction.
Okay, thank you for the answer, I just checked now, and it appears to be screwed in quite tight, so I don’t think this is my issue. Printing with a 0.6mm at 240c Petg
Probably another issue 🤷♂️
You sure you have the correct extruder type included to l in printer.cfg?
How does the seam look like in this print?
My guess: Red is due to the walls being unstable at 1 perimeter. Try to print with 3-4 perimeters. Blue is due to insufficient cooling.
If blue is seam position - try to move it to mid wall but the seam problem is usually a different one.
All in all if you're printing this at 20ish mm3/s flow then lower the temp to 235C. If you're pushing 35-40 mm3/s try lowering to 255C. Also do it with 3-4 perimeters and see if things change. Cranking fan settings up might also show a difference
This in my experience is due to very bad internal bridges. So what we would be looking at is internal infill pattern after 2-4 upper layers that did not close the gaps well. Try to see if this is the case by checking the print during internal bridging.
Sometimes insufficient vertical wall thickness causes this as internal bringing does not happen at all - for slightly sloped surfaces.
Crank vertical shell thickness to 2mm minimum and turn off the "do not enforce over X perimeters".
These are Superslicer settings but orca should have something similar.
Looking in OrcaSlicer, there's no vertical wall/shell thickness minimum - only how many loops it performs. I imagine the thickness is calculated off the line width. Mine is 3 loops and a line width of 0.6mm. Should I bump it up to 4 loops?
Also there isn't a "do not enforce over X perimeters" in Orca, but I can't find it in SuperSlicer either.
What about "Ensure Vertical Shell Thickness" or "Avoid Crossing Walls"?
Ensure vertical shell thickness is the thing. But there are like 3 settings all over the place. 🙃
Also check that solid infil is "rectilinear" at the sloped internal solid infill. Orca automatically substitutes with concentric infill but this should be toggleable (EDIT: "Detect narrow internal infill"). I had very bad results at sloped surfaces top layer when the first solid infill was concentric.
Good luck with translating to orca.
here it is in Orca....
Here's what mine were, I'll update them to reflect yours:
I'll complicate things if you'll allow me 🙂 those orca screens are my 0.4 nozzle minion settings. See the SS pics for 0.6 nozzle. But these are not definitive settings. I just know that when printing petg at 35mm3/s, at 250C with X% 4028 - tweaking these settings helped.
Absolutely! Is "X% 4028" your acceleration?
Here's some other settings if you don't mind looking over:
The minimum "minimum thickness" value will be different for different layer heights as well.
At what mm3/s flow are you printing?
Cooling fan speed
Oh a 4028 fan, haha I should have recognized that sorry
What do you base your minimum thickness value off of? Is it a percentage of your layer height?
Depends on layer thickness, angle of the geometry, print speeds, you get the picture. Filament is a massive part - I had petg from one manufacturer where 2mm were barely enough and a petg from a different supplier where 1.2 was fine (both repeatedly, and both dried)
I think this setting changes helped!
What setting change?