Pitting after switching to 0.6mm nozzle

Switched to a 0.6mm nozzle (came from 0.4mm) with a Phaetus Rapido. I've changed the nozzle size in the printer.cfg, orcaslicer, etc. I calibrated my E-steps, pressure advance, Flow (EM), and all my little test cubes look good. Material is PETG in a filament dryer, 270* and 60* bed. I know I'm overlooking something here...
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37 Replies
loczek
loczek10mo ago
Try lower temp 270 seems too high for Petg I can print some brands at 235
elliott
elliott10mo ago
Decreasing the temperature seems to have made it worse.
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elliott
elliott10mo ago
I'm wondering if I need to increase the line width for the support. That's all support material there. Line width did very little. Increased the temp back to 260 for the speeds I slowed the speed down to 50% towards the top of this single wall print and the print quality improved:
elliott
elliott10mo ago
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elliott
elliott10mo ago
I wonder if the increase in diameter means that the PETG filament is molten for longer and sags because of it? I had no skipping from the extruder
loczek
loczek10mo ago
Change back to 0.4 nozzle or to different 0.6. Might just be the nozzle producing these issues
elliott
elliott10mo ago
I’ll try that! I have an extra 0.6
elliott
elliott10mo ago
No real improvement with a different 0.6mm nozzle
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loczek
loczek9mo ago
Go back to 0.4 Did you change in klipper the nozzle size?
elliott
elliott9mo ago
Yeah, I changed it to 0.6mm.
elliott
elliott9mo ago
Ran a Max Flow test up to 50mm3, it’s super clean!
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elliott
elliott9mo ago
Especially for PETG I ordered a 0.4mm volcano today, I'll try that next. I still wonder if it's just not enough cooling.
loczek
loczek9mo ago
That looks clean Yeah, seems to be something to do with temp
EternalPath
EternalPath9mo ago
If it's rapido 2.0 maybe your temp sensor is not screwed in properly?
E-TF[102] Riker
E-TF[102] Riker9mo ago
I’m having similar problems with this hot end. if it’s not screwed in correctly will it report a higher temperature? I hear popping coming from my extruder, despite the fact I have it set to 240C. And I’m suffering from under extrusion.
EternalPath
EternalPath9mo ago
It will report a lower temperature than the hotend is actually at. And it will change randomly which will cause the pid controller to malfunction.
E-TF[102] Riker
E-TF[102] Riker9mo ago
Okay, thank you for the answer, I just checked now, and it appears to be screwed in quite tight, so I don’t think this is my issue. Printing with a 0.6mm at 240c Petg Probably another issue 🤷‍♂️
EternalPath
EternalPath9mo ago
You sure you have the correct extruder type included to l in printer.cfg?
Ferfi
Ferfi9mo ago
How does the seam look like in this print?
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Ferfi
Ferfi9mo ago
My guess: Red is due to the walls being unstable at 1 perimeter. Try to print with 3-4 perimeters. Blue is due to insufficient cooling. If blue is seam position - try to move it to mid wall but the seam problem is usually a different one. All in all if you're printing this at 20ish mm3/s flow then lower the temp to 235C. If you're pushing 35-40 mm3/s try lowering to 255C. Also do it with 3-4 perimeters and see if things change. Cranking fan settings up might also show a difference
Ferfi
Ferfi9mo ago
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Ferfi
Ferfi9mo ago
This in my experience is due to very bad internal bridges. So what we would be looking at is internal infill pattern after 2-4 upper layers that did not close the gaps well. Try to see if this is the case by checking the print during internal bridging. Sometimes insufficient vertical wall thickness causes this as internal bringing does not happen at all - for slightly sloped surfaces. Crank vertical shell thickness to 2mm minimum and turn off the "do not enforce over X perimeters". These are Superslicer settings but orca should have something similar.
elliott
elliott9mo ago
Looking in OrcaSlicer, there's no vertical wall/shell thickness minimum - only how many loops it performs. I imagine the thickness is calculated off the line width. Mine is 3 loops and a line width of 0.6mm. Should I bump it up to 4 loops? Also there isn't a "do not enforce over X perimeters" in Orca, but I can't find it in SuperSlicer either. What about "Ensure Vertical Shell Thickness" or "Avoid Crossing Walls"?
Ferfi
Ferfi9mo ago
Ensure vertical shell thickness is the thing. But there are like 3 settings all over the place. 🙃
Ferfi
Ferfi9mo ago
Also check that solid infil is "rectilinear" at the sloped internal solid infill. Orca automatically substitutes with concentric infill but this should be toggleable (EDIT: "Detect narrow internal infill"). I had very bad results at sloped surfaces top layer when the first solid infill was concentric. Good luck with translating to orca.
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Ferfi
Ferfi9mo ago
here it is in Orca....
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elliott
elliott9mo ago
Here's what mine were, I'll update them to reflect yours:
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elliott
elliott9mo ago
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elliott
elliott9mo ago
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Ferfi
Ferfi9mo ago
I'll complicate things if you'll allow me 🙂 those orca screens are my 0.4 nozzle minion settings. See the SS pics for 0.6 nozzle. But these are not definitive settings. I just know that when printing petg at 35mm3/s, at 250C with X% 4028 - tweaking these settings helped.
elliott
elliott9mo ago
Absolutely! Is "X% 4028" your acceleration?
elliott
elliott9mo ago
Here's some other settings if you don't mind looking over:
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Ferfi
Ferfi9mo ago
The minimum "minimum thickness" value will be different for different layer heights as well. At what mm3/s flow are you printing? Cooling fan speed
elliott
elliott9mo ago
Oh a 4028 fan, haha I should have recognized that sorry What do you base your minimum thickness value off of? Is it a percentage of your layer height?
Ferfi
Ferfi9mo ago
Depends on layer thickness, angle of the geometry, print speeds, you get the picture. Filament is a massive part - I had petg from one manufacturer where 2mm were barely enough and a petg from a different supplier where 1.2 was fine (both repeatedly, and both dried)
elliott
elliott8mo ago
I think this setting changes helped!
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EternalPath
EternalPath8mo ago
What setting change?
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