What is causing this in almost all my jackets?
Ignore the lapel, this jacket is trash and I’m not asking about the jacket specifically.
The problem is found on almost every OTR jacket or coat I try on; it’s the wrinkle/crease/poor drape between the lapel and the arm.
Nearly every blazer I try on has this problem. Went to Brooks Brothers today and tried on like 10 different blazers/jackets that had the same problem. I normally wear a 46L but this happens even with a 44…
It’s almost like there’s too much fabric in the chest, but the waist is perfect and the shoulders are perfect on a 46.
Can a tailor fix this? What could be causing this wrinkle between the arm and the lapel?
27 Replies
To properly diagnose it’s best to see a full body pic taken from about waist height while you stand naturally (don’t hold the phone/camera and take a mirror pic)
Shoulders too wide
Which BB cut is this @TimmytheBonsai
That one isn’t a brooks brothers - this one is, though:
Isn’t that weird? It’s always my right arm/shoulder that has it the worst.
As you can tell in that photo, left arm doesn’t do it at all in that jacket
This is what I thought too, but the same thing happens in a 44L (both of these are 46L), but I can barely fit into a 44!
Can you take a photo of you in this pose just wearing a shirt, no tailored jacket?
Sure dude
It’s my pajamas tho
I don't think so
I think you have wider hips than chest which is causing the suit to pucker up
Weird
What would you ask a tailor to do to fix that?
Do you think it could be that my neck is too big?
Idk
Respectfully, bread, you needed a ton of help in your own suit thread and aren't in much of a position to be giving advice here
This jacket isn't a great fit for you, it's too short and the waist looks a bit too small on you. I feel like the wrinkles would come out if you just pull down on the hem a bit?
The body here looks pretty fine honestly? Main problem is the shoulders
Your right shoulder does look a bit sloped compared to your left shoulder which looks a bit more square. I wonder if this asymmetry is throwing your suit shoulders off a bit
Is there anything a tailor can do to rectify it, or is it just a matter of being more careful with the fit in the future?
I’ll say this - I pretty much never buy anything other than a standard fit… never bother with a “slim fit” but do you think that could help?
Agreed I hate that jacket
But it demonstrates the shoulder issue the best
It’d be very tough for a tailor to correct but that BB jacket looks fine tbh. Just give it a little tug at the hem and I think it’d be fine
Yeah it’s rough man, I went in for a BB navy blazer today (outlet stores having a 50% off retail sale) and none of their navy blazers would fit
All had the shoulder thing but worse than pictured in that houndstooth jacket
On this jacket it’s most likely an issue with the hips being too small tbh. But that jacket has so many issues I wouldn’t put much stock into it
You think if I lose some weight in the hips the fit might improve across the board on jackets with these problems?
I just ordered a s&m suit that I’m worried is going to have the same issue
Everyone’s body is different and the clothes can be altered to fit you. Don’t worry about losing weight for a jacket
Spiers cuts can be very slim. When it arrives take pics with a dress shirt and your dress shoes and folks can help determine if it’s worth it to tailor, try a different size, or just return
Thanks for the advice, really
I’m also in the process of losing a lot of weight anyways, hoping to drop another 20-30 lbs or so over the next year
So maybe that will help with the fits
If that’s the issue, a tailor might be able to put a slightly thicker pad into that shoulder to even things out. Maybe try on the jacket with something padding that shoulder, like a sock, just to see if it helps any? If it does, that’s not too hard for a tailor to do.
Congratulations on the progress and making a change you want to see in yourself, it's not easy! There are alot of men with asymmetrical shoulders and wider hips that don't lose the weight or work out and find ways to fit suit jackets so it's definitely possible, but do understand that if you lose the weight around your midsection and also lift weights, you'll end up appreciably changing your body's proportions and anything that fits well now might not fit so well in a few months. If you live near a good tailor, take some time to go there with your jackets and whatever you'll usually wear them over and talk with the tailor about if they can fix it, how, and how much it will cost.
Yeah the first jacket is completely unstructured; which is probably why it exhibits the problem the worst. I’m not sure if I’ll be able to have a tailor put padding into an unstructured jacket.. at least probably not around where I am
Thanks friend! Yeah it’s been wild I’ve dropped about 45 lbs so far. You think it would be smart to just wait until I’m where I want to be before I spend anymore on jackets/suits?
Any tips on how to know if your tailor is legit or if they just talk a big game? I bought that first grey suit to a tailor that charged quite a bit and man, I was so disappointed with the work. All he did was bring in the sides and taper the sleeves, I was really hoping for someone who would help me analyze what was wrong with the fit and how to solve it
Let’s not give people body advice on a fashion server.
I don't really know how to tell if a tailor is good or not besides bringing in something to get tailored and judging their work against their price. Google reviews might be a good place to start if they're on there. You'll probably want a jacket or two that fit well in the meantime, and some of the tailoring advice in here seems like a good avenue to explore, like seeing if a current jacket if yours can have the shoulder padding adjusted.
I gave advice on how large scale changes in body composition affect how clothing fits and that that should be considered before purchasing something if the plan is to make such a change in the immediate future, which is just as much sound financial advice.
And 45 is alot, that's awesome! I wish you the best in reaching your final goal
Thank you! And yeah I kinda figured comparing their work to price was the way to go. At least in the case of the first jacket I posted, there’s really nothing to lose there because it’s already an awful jacket as others have noted, so it won’t be a bust if the tailor makes it somehow worse
Also, for what it’s worth, considering a lot of my fashion issue has to do with fit and I just lost a substantial amount of weight and intend to lose a considerable amount more weight, and this directly affects the fit of my clothes, I did find the advice helpful and relevant
But idk I’m new to this channel and honestly seems like y’all have a very specific thing going on here so don’t listen to me about that
I appreciated it tho