How do people get jeans hemmed w/original hem, but also cuff them (w/out the stitch showing inside?)

This is more me being curious and trying to understand probably a basic situation, than solving an issue I have. I have a pair of Levi 501's I'm wanting to get hemmed with original hem. It's very unlikely that I will want to cuff them, but if I do, how do Tailors attach original hem, without that stitch on the inside showing (once cuffed)? Is it just not possible? Do I have 2 options here when asking the Tailor??: A) Hem w/original hem and dont cuff them ever (which I will probably do anyway). or B) Hem w/out original hem, meaning I can cuff (thus no stitch showing) ?But will lose the original/distressed hem. Surely there are people who like to cuff, but need to hem their jeans because they are too long? What if one buys selvedge denim? I hear people really like to cuff these jeans. What then? I've also read about Euro/(European) Hem vs American Hem. Levi's I believe does Euro. My local Tailor hasnt a clue of the above 2 terminologies lol. Image examples below to show you what I mean.
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32 Replies
rej
rej3mo ago
how do Tailors attach original hem, without that stitch on the inside showing (once cuffed)
they dont I don't personally think it's worthwhile to try to reattach the original hem. I'd either not hem them and if they're a bit long, maybe cuff them, or just take them in to be hemmed, and eventually that new hem will fade as well
StotheG7
StotheG73mo ago
What is the purpose of having the original hem? I guess I’m a bit confused as to why that’s even really an option, there’s no real substantial difference between the fabric higher vs lower on the pant leg - some companies only produce pants in a single length so almost all consumers need to have them hemmed and that’s not really an issue.
rej
rej3mo ago
i think in this case cozzie wants to maintain any roping and fading the is original to the pants
Cozzie
Cozzie3mo ago
Ye keeping original hem keeps the nice faded edge at the bottom. I only recently discovered it last year lol.
StotheG7
StotheG73mo ago
Fair enough, I’d agree with rej then that (at least for myself) reattaching the original hem probably isn’t worth the cost and you’d be able to recreate the fading with wear. But they’re your jeans and your choice so don’t let me talk you out of it
CrispySmokyFrazzles
Are you looking to preserve an existing fade or are you worried that it won’t fade in the same way if you hem it without the original? Ah, sorry - just re-read. But yeah, tend to agree that it probably wouldn’t be worth the effort, but ultimately it’s your choice if you really like how it looks right now 🙂
Cozzie
Cozzie3mo ago
Ye I'm defo keeping original hem. Was curious if I wanted to cuff it, wouldnt stitchnig show from inside. And so, how do people go about this lol. But from these comments, it seems as if no one cares about keeping original hem w/jean hemming? Seems such a shock to hear on d/mfa. Unless I'm misunderstanding lol
rej
rej3mo ago
I've gotten plenty of pairs of jeans hemmed, never thought to keep the original hem. they'll fade again with enough wear
carrion
carrion3mo ago
if that's shocking, wait till u see ppl raw hemming their jeans themselves
s0up
s0up3mo ago
I don't fully understand the wording of your question if I'm honest. Are these vintage jeans that already show roping and fading at the hem that you want to keep? If you mean you want to keep the chain stitched hem that the jeans already have there are certain shops that can do a chain stitch (Rivet & Hide being one) But you can get roping and fading on the hem without a chain stitch
Cozzie
Cozzie3mo ago
what's raw hemming jeans? Is that fading it w/sandpaper themselves?
epistrophy
epistrophy3mo ago
When I hem my jeans I sometimes use the original hem. It's no real extra work to keep it and I like the roping, but yeah the tradeoff is that you can't cuff without the stitching being visible. I suppose if you used a closely matching thread and left a massive seam allowance you could cuff without anyone seeing the work It's just chopping the hem off completely.
carrion
carrion3mo ago
measure, cut, done
Cozzie
Cozzie3mo ago
Jesus. And leaving like strands of the cotton (denim?) strands? Not sure what the word is lol
carrion
carrion3mo ago
lmao "jesus" yes you can trim it up if you want but🤷‍♂️
Cozzie
Cozzie3mo ago
Like this?:
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Cozzie
Cozzie3mo ago
(forget the knees) Original hem is this. If I want to hem my pants, keep original hem, I wont be able to cuff due to the stitching will show on the inside. Again, It's unlikely I will cuff them, but was curious and so asked lol.
Cozzie
Cozzie3mo ago
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bishopcorrigan
bishopcorrigan3mo ago
Yeah this isn’t enough fading that it’s worth worrying about imo If it was like seriously cooked, and you wanted to maintain that I could see it But this is very little time to fade back to this if you walk a decent amount Most people here will not reattach the original hem, I would guess that almost no one here would There’s nothing inherent about being a fashion server that makes us want to reattach original hems that’s just a particular enthusiast thing And it’s really only relevant for vintage denim enthusiasts The way to reattach the hem without it being as noticeable would be to painstakingly darn the entire cuff Which would be a psychotic thing to ask for And would make it hard to cuff them anyway
Cozzie
Cozzie3mo ago
hmm interesting. Could be a future #questions-and-advice I might just ask. Just to get a general sense of what people do. Would be super interesting to find out!
Carney
Carney3mo ago
i get most of my jeans hemmed with original hem and my tailor does it without that unsightly stiching. i think thats a skill issue with the tailor if they can't do it cleanly. also it only costs like $15
Carney
Carney3mo ago
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Cozzie
Cozzie3mo ago
oooo this is nice! This answers part of my question of "Surely there are people who like to cuff, but need to hem their jeans because they are too long?" lol Is this selvidge out of interest? Or where are the pair from?
Carney
Carney3mo ago
haha yeah i'm on the shorter side so most of my jeans/pants need hemming and i'm not a fan of the huge or super chunky cuffs. these are momotaros and yes they are selvedge
Cozzie
Cozzie3mo ago
I've ventured into rawdenim, and I guess they have no 'distressed/discolouration' anywhere, so the hemming is easier. Theres no real 'original hem' to lose lol.
Carney
Carney3mo ago
yep, i never ask for original hems with my raws, since it doesnt make a whole lot of sense plus its cheaper to get a plain hem so i get to save a few dollars
awburkey
awburkey3mo ago
lol yes, it looks great
Carney
Carney3mo ago
like 15-20 years ago all my jeans looked like this. when i decided to make them a more 'proper' (whatever that means) length, i cut them myself so they all had raw hems and i didnt like how they looked so i started getting them professionally done and never looked back
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Carney
Carney3mo ago
raw hems do look cool, just not a fan of how they look on me
Carney
Carney3mo ago
i don't disagree, i just don't seem to be able to pull it off for myself
awburkey
awburkey3mo ago
:post: :fit: