Self printed? Material, Settings, Orientation? Because, so far, even with 20cm extensions my printed connector holds strong. I don’t think it will fail anytime soon (knock on wood)
Not self printed. The first one that came with the Rhino broke, kind of freakish, it snapped forward with force and hit my "cockpit dash". It broke. Second one I had printed, it broke from stress. I understand this is not normal, but I would advise getting an aluminum one... preferably with an offset.
Have ordered the aluminum grip mount, but in the meantime (or even once the aluminum version is mounted) any suggestions for keeping the 3D printed VKB adapter solidly attached to the base grip adapter? Loctite blue? Something else?
Could maybe make the joint tight as desired, then drill it for a metal side-screw. Similar to how the metal pulleys have a set screw, but drilled right into the inner piece too. Or kinda like a castle nut / cotter pin joint. Never tried this personally in printed parts, so it might be better to use sacrificial test parts first. Just an idea.
I think I’d worry about a thin metal screw/pin working like a lever, but a larger diameter one would need correspondingly sized holes which might weaken the mounts. I’ll try doing some research on what works for all the plastic plumbing connectors.
Maybe Vibra-Tite VC-3 Tape for locking the 3D printed grip mount threads? Says it's an anti-vibration tape (no curing) that's supposed to work with plastics and metals and be reversible. But looks like it doesn't work very well on fine or small threads. https://www.amazon.com/Vibra-TITE-VC-3-Tape-Instant-Threadlocker/dp/B09FTP34MR/
VC-3 Tape is a unique patent pending anti-vibration compound designed to prevent fastener loosening. Stretch and wrap VC-3 Tape around the threads of a fastener. VC-3 Tape is ready for immediate use with no drying or curing time required. After installation, a fastener wrapped with VC-3 Tape can ...
Honestly, im not too worried about the adapter becoming loose. Ive had mine solidly clamped against a custom 3d printed thread adapter for my custom extension. Its been going strong for a year now
I don’t think I’m bottoming out the threads. It’s the pre-built Rhino and everything looked flat but I can disassemble and check. A rubber spacer sounds like a good idea - I’ll try that tomorrow.
A relatively small update, but I wanted to get some fixes out that have been pending for a while. As per usual, if I tagged you below, you reported the issue or I worked with you on the new functionality. Also, speical thanks to @exil35 for his collaboration on the new SASHelicopter type.
General
- Updated many effects to work properly with pedals axis. "Direction" was hard coded for y axis which does not exist for pedals. @kaltokri
DCS
- Remove bad damage telemetry from Mi-24 causing random activation of the damage effect @TheAmazinGreat
MSFS
- Fix issue that would cause trouble with cyclic spring initialization when the sim freezes or pauses while the trim release button is being held. @Blodwyn76 @westereq - Improve AFCS following logic for HPGHelicopter class @exil35 - New 'SASHelicopter' class to support 2-axis SAS that will be supported on upcoming 'heliSAS' mods from SimFocus. @exil35
Would it be possible to use the potentiometer inputs on the board for homemade peripherals like a throttle, rpm lever, etc or are they strictly for controlling ffb perimeters such as gain?
@walmis I just want you to know how thrilled I am to fly with your Joystick base. I have MANY thousands of hours flying with other equipment and yours is the best I have ever used by far.
Hi Guys how do i find my position in the que ..i found the bot to use ..i think ..not to sure what to type in said didnt understand ? new to the discords any help much appreciated .thx