Can't find jackets (suits, blazers) that fit redux
I've been searching for about a year and a half, and still no luck (at thrifts, curated vintage, eBay, new RTW). My problem is mostly that my shoulders are much larger than expected for my small chest size - 19" when my chest is 39" at the largest and 37" in the middle. I'll add some more details and pictures in replies - sorry for the wall of text. Any tips would be hugely appreciated.
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old Brooks Brothers outlet DB blazer that's a bit too big - inch too long, maybe a fraction of an inch big in shoulders (both of which I could put up with), several inches too big in the chest. gonna return this I think. I can add more pics
1. Mens Wearhouse squeezing me into a standard sport coat for my chest size, crushing my shoulders
2. H&M slim fit linen blazer a couple sizes up that was close to fitting, just awkward in the chest
from last year
Details:
What I'm looking for
Right now I mostly want to get a navy blazer or something similar; at this point I don't care too much what the style is for my first few as long as they looks alright and fit. I'd really like one not in wool (I like summer fabrics, eyes are sensitive to some wool) but those seem to be even harder to fit in the shoulders. I can comfortably spend up to ~$300, and more if needed. Obviously I'm not going to spend much if I don't trust it to fit and can't do a full return. Would be hard to go custom for my first tailoring + there aren't many options where I live + can't really afford anything actually good / don't want to spend ~$1k on something mediocre.
I do have a close friend's wedding coming up in just over a month - but I've resigned myself to maybe I won't be able to wear tailoring; I've talked about this struggle with the couple.
Shoulders
- How exactly should the correspondence between actual shoulders and outside shoulder measurements be? I think based off trying jackets that are way too large in the chest, that with my shoulders being right about 19" I need around 19.5" for unpadded, structured jackets to not feel uncomfortably constrained, 19.75" is fine, and 20" maybe is too much. Is this off base?
- Can you really find size ~40 jackets with over 19" shoulders? I was told they're out there even in 38 https://discord.com/channels/1116793467654381685/1211791945610035220/1211793414299983902 but I have yet to find one! Feel pretty let down on that one. They're much more often 17" to 18.5".
- I'm guessing I don't have a very extreme shoulder shape, more squared if anything? So if the shape is an issue, it's in a subtle way.
Chest and waist
- Okay, I was told last year that it's good to have some space in the waist https://discord.com/channels/1116793467654381685/1116800072093532191/1209922883355279411 So, if you're going to do that, how does it look when it's buttoned, when you're raising your arms, when you're moving, etc?
- I still think I'd like something closer to the classic "enough space to fit a fist" when buttoned. About what pit to pit measurements relative to actual chest measurement does this correspond to?
Other fit considerations
Of course, for a jacket to work well for me it needs to be the right length (about 30") and sleeve length (about 24.5"). Small armholes would really help as well.
Wool sensitivity
Quite unfortunately I'm hit with the double whammy of being sensitive to wool - probably lanolin or loose hairs irritate my eyes; I've also been irritated by camel jackets, and I'm also allergic to dogs and cats and ferrets... though seemingly not rodents and maybe not alpaca wool. A lot of people (including the wool industry) talk about how wool allergy is fake, it's just lanolin - but this doesn't help to actually find garments that work. A lot of merino has low levels of lanolin and it gets processed out for superfine used for suits... but I gather some is then coated in lanolin again? Likewise for some alpaca etc. And this information is hard to come by. I'd probably like to focus on linen, cotton, etc. anyway for various reasons, but again they're even harder to fit.
https://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/threads/wool-allergy.91530/
https://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/threads/interesting-article-on-wool-allergies.88685/
Have you taken any of these to a tailor and asked them about adjustments? It’s not that unusual to have to adjust a coat.
For a summer wedding cotton or linen would probably fine depending on the dress code.
Sleeve length is very adjustable. I would not expect to find a perfect sleeve off the rack.
Shoulders can't be adjusted
https://putthison.com/q-and-answer-how-much-can-my-clothes-be-altered/ for example says torsos can be adjusted an inch or two. I think that for example getting that DB blazer to a better width would put the buttons over the pockets so that isn't possible
Put This On
Q and Answer: How Much Can My Clothes Be Altered?
Mario writes us to ask: When you’re hunting for used quality clothing, you’re bound to come across pieces that are...
How much have you seen people able to take in chests and waists? And would that be jackets with darts, what kind of pockets, etc.
I'm still not sure just how oversized I can go in the chest (without the lapels buckling) but 5-6 inches seems well past what works
Probably should stop trying over 40 sized jackets
I’m not the suit expert here. Maybe they’ll chime in.
But the men’s warehouse and HM both look like they are in the right ballpark. If anything they look too small in the chest by the pulling on the button point.
But that’s why it might be worth taking it to a tailor and asking.
The Men's Wearhouse probably looks like that since it was (far) too tight in the shoulders. H&M one yeah it looks like that but I'm pretty sure it was loose.
There's the problem that I don't have a tailor I fully trust, there's only some boutiques, and tailors who aren't fluent in English here 😅
I’ve read most of what you’ve posted and I think that made to measure is going to be your best bet for a number of reasons.
1. You’ll be able to discuss the details of the fabrics with the sales rep to make sure you get something that will avoid your sensitivity/allergy. If they can’t help you find a different sales rep or try a different shop.
2. I’ve admittedly skimmed the measurement issues and most of the pics aren’t super helpful for fit but if you’re struggling off the rack MTM is the way to go.
I think avoiding your sensitivity is the biggest limiting factor as most navy blazers are going to be some wool or wool blend. Buying used is what I mostly recommend. That’s worth a shot but I suspect almost all of it is going to be wool and wool blends.
I’ve had success with Hall Madden. They have a number of locations and can also do home try-ins but I very much recommend going in-person. Suit supply is also an option
Is there anything I can do to get better pics for the fit? (Maybe not.)
I guess I should have said this specifically but I'd also like e.g. linen suits; I'm seeing cotton jackets from PRL etc. I like the shoulder ratio just doesn't work
Suit Supply is all I got (without having to fly/all-day train each time I go in) and I don't think I can afford it after tariffs. But I'm thinking I'll head in there and the local shops just in case
Better pics just stand neutrally with the camera around waist height. Take front, side, and back pics with a timer or Bluetooth trigger
Ok a bit higher right
And hm I'm wondering whether these dimensions are even doable by (the average) MTM but just have to try ig
Your measurements are totally normal and any decent MTM place should be able to set you up well. The main issue I’m seeing in the pics is the buttoning point being too high and various adjustments that the waist and skirt will need. But I’m no tailor, the MTM folks know more than me
This jacket actually looks quite good in the first pic. I’m not seeing the issues you’ve mentioned
Hmm
There's considerable excess space in the chest
I don't like how the lapels buckle with any movement I make (usually hear about this is a problem with jackets that are too small) but I guess I didn't capture that
I'll take pics at a proper height tomorrow, really should have realized the issue there
(and I'll try to go to SuitSupply and the two shops this week)
And Idk about these proportions being normal, there's way too much out there that doesn't even come close to working - most chore coats and so on as well
If your overarm measurement is greater than 6" bigger than your chest you are considered to have broad shoulders.My chest is 39" and overarm is 48" https://www.styleforum.net/threads/is-every-man-lead-to-believe-they-have-broad-shoulders.93995/
Styleforum
Is every man lead to believe they have broad shoulders?
I never worked for any high end clothier, just sold clothes part time briefly many years ago in college, but I noticed then that pretty much every man described themselves as broad shouldered when asking about fit. Put somebody in a suit and sometimes they would insist on going a size up to...
The first jacket is wildly too small. Ig you’re saying the shoulders don’t fit but idt the chest fits.
2 is impossible to say anything bc you aren’t standing neutrally
Also the shoulders seem okay lol maybe a little bit small
Yeah Mens Wearhouse just said looks great like that, so I left. Those are old pics from last time I asked about this but I haven't found a lot that fit just in shoulders since then (and hard to take pics in thrifts, guess I could just buy lol)
2. is a 44 or 46
In my experience a shoulder that's a half inch too small is incredibly unbearably uncomfortable - a shape issue?
I'm not able to get into finer points of fit since I don't have anything that's close enough
Yeah my advice is to either get better pics or just go for MTM. You might have broad shoulders (ngl im not convinced but that’s the pic quality) and if so any MTM place worth their salt will be able to get you jackets that fit
I'll do both; thanks for the help
This is quite overwhelming and bugging me persistently
I'm fairly confident in the measurements though, they've worked for buying shirts etc.
here we go
last two showing the buckling that happens with every single jacket I try on (often worse than this)
Yeah I think this fits pretty fabulously. When you move stuff is going to happen. The armholes might be a little low which is causing some of the issues but I don't think this is super out of bounds. Getting the back perfectly smooth in pic 3 you might be able to take the back in a little but I tend to prefer a touch more room
Your options are kinda
1. Tailor it extensively and do with with every jacket you find
2. go MTM
Both are about equivalent but again I suggest MTM to make it easier to avoid wool/lanolin
Problem with this blazer (other than the type of wool, and not an amazing fit elsewhere, requiring several alterations) is that it's a generous size 42 and I'm 40 at most, I'm not sold on having that kind of gap around my chest.
I think if I ever keep a jacket this big I would have it taken in as much as reasonable and still have room
But yeah that makes sense.
MTM also maybe I can get a (somewhat) smaller armhole though I'll have tempered expectations about the whole thing
I've got an appointment at SuitSupply now