Suit and Tailoring Advice
Hey guys I bought a Hugo Boss 98% Virgin wool 2% Elastane suit and it needs some tailoring, from my unprofessional opinion, I think it needs an inch off the jacket length, (sleeves are pinned) a little off sleeve length, Jacket needs to be taken in and the shoulders are a bit wide so hopefully that helps, pants need a hem and to be tapered a little since they are a little wide for my liking at the bottom
65 Replies
I know it fits me big, but I got a stupid good deal on it and even spending a couple hundred to tailor it I am well below the cost of a decent off the rack suit
I tried like overlapping the coat like a double breasted suit to simulate taking in the jacket and it looks much much better especially from the back
length looks fine, it’s just not the most flattering cut of a jacket imo, but that’s not about the size. from what i understand taking the shoulders is not something that’s normally done with jackets fwiw
with no way to see the hem i can’t tell you if it’s good or bad
the width of the trousers looks fine tbh
looks like the armholes are a little strange
pretty sure the sleeve length and pants width are both fine
armhole is a little too low i think; correcting that and the shoulder probably means redoing the sleeve and shoulder cap which are fairly expensive and may not achieve the intended result
also imo the lapel is too narrow but that's personal preference.
honestly i'd try to return or sell it. regardless of how good the deal is, the cost of the amount of work needed/desired is probably equivalent to finding a suit discounted or secondhand that's easier to deal with
Just dropped it off at the tailor
213$ for jacket hem, tapered sleeves, tapered pants, hem on pants, she took in the back and made it fit my curves a lot better
if it works out, it works out
Hope so
First suit
oh wow
I agree the lapel is a little skinny but its not terrible for a young guy
for future suits i would a) make sure you know your measurements (whether you get someone to do this at a store or self-measure) and b) try to find a suit as close to them as possible. tailors can often fix things but it's easier to find something that fits well
I have a weird body shape ngl so finding suits that fit me very well is hard
Heres a suit jacket I found a couple months ago that I thought fit me well
i do not intend to flex when i say this but most of my tailoring is sub-$100 with alterations
Unnatural body position bc i was mid moving
but generally fits me i think pretty good
arm holes are weird though, or maybe thats just a suit thing
It feels like they are too pointed downwards, so lifting my arms out even just a little bunches up the sleeves
armholes are a common issue due to how the suit was made - if they're too long or too round or too high or low it can lead to the creasing and divots in the picture
fixing that requires recurring or reshaping the armhole which may or may not require extra fabric
its a hard fix which is why it's generally best to find a suit that fits well in the armhole (nice slope from shoulder seam all the way down the arm).
if you are looking for more suits/blazers/sportcoats, find out your actual measurements if not already, find how you want your suit to fit and take the time to find suits that align with them (especially the length of the jacket and width of the shoulder). it's worth the effort and maybe cost to get your desired fit
I got this full suit for 150$ so that’s why I let it slide
150 imo is quite high for that suit, even if it did fit well out of the box
150 for a full virgin wool somewhat designer suit?
If it was Rayon or some other cheap alternative I would agree
But the cheapest wool suits, even cheap wool are around 600$
This specific suit is around 1600$ retail if I am not mistaken
pre tariffs, the cheapest recommendable new wool suit would have been a s&m red label at $250ish
Whats the composition on those?
there's different tiers of "designer"; hugo boss is a brand that licensed its name out to department stores to sell lower quality suits for lower prices
relevant thread https://discord.com/channels/1116793467654381685/1367893406411657368
wool
yea thats why I said "somewhat designer" but I am a little confused on this suit, generally the macy's and nordstrom hugo boss suits are the like 47% recycled wool and whatever cheap blend
I looked everywhere and seems like the only full wool hugo boss suits are the suits they sell themselves
lots of entry level suits are wool (as opposed to silk or something similar)
which is where I found a suit with the same composition and same cut for 1600$
I was under the impression that entry level suits were either rayon or some other cheap fabric, or a low blend of recycled wool
And the only full wool suits you can get that are worth it are like 700-800 from suit supply
this is not to suggest that ut's not to suggest that this is a bad suit or bad deal, just that "good deal" shouldn't be an bigger factor than fit
do you know your suit size and/or measurements
and how are you defining "worth it"
I underestimated the cost and effort it takes to modify a suits shoulder width, next time I will shop based on that
Something good quality I can wear for the next couple years and a good enough fabric that i wont sweat my ass off in it
shoulder 42
so i bought a 42R suit
but shoulders were too wide
the 42 is the chest measurement
Depends heavily on the fit I want
do you mean chest measurement of my body or chest measurement of the jacket
the chest measurement of the jacket
I buy jackets with a bust of anywhere from 53cm to 58cm depending on the fit i want
a 42R is constructed in such a way that someone with a 42" chest will have enough room for a dress shirt and such underneath
53 cm is like a snug shirt fit
58 is like a hoodie
so I would say maybe 56 for a suit jacket
even if you want a slim fit (it's dated but w/e) the 42R is still based on the garment chest measurement
suit measurements
So if I am a 42 shoulder im forcibly less in chest
a 42R is designed so someone with a 42" chest (at the line) will have mobility
most likely yes
there is no set formula because people make suits differently
should i just take a tailors measuring tape to my chest and breathe in to get a chest measurement
so if i want to shop based on shoulder width, i cant?
I just have to try try try till i find something i like?
alr
ideally get someone to measure your body based on this. don't worry about how clothes should fit, you just want raw numbers
your chest measurement will dictate the number (40, 42, etc) and your height more or less will dictate the length (S/R/L; usually people under 5'8" fit in S, people over 6' fit in L, and everyone else is R but this is not exact)
this is a good video to self-measure https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=nwBniB9amJY&list=LL&index=37&t=5s&pp=gAQBiAQB
The Suit Depot
YouTube
How to measure yourself to determine your suit jacket & pants size
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Buying a suit online can be a stressful experience, but it doesn't have to be. In this tutorial we lay out a few simple steps showing you how to measure yourself to determine your ideal suit size.
Feel free to comment below with any questions or comments related to menswear and we will try and respond.
but once you have that, try on suits in your size - at department stores, malls, thrift, wherever. bring a tape measure. see how they fit, how they feel when moving, etc.
oh is it brand new? nvm then sorry
if you find a good fitting suit then either buy it or get the horizontal measurements off of it, again like this
if you have horizontal measurements of a suit that fits well, you can go on ebay or thrift shops or fb marketplace and get suits for far less that fit bitter, with less need for a tailor
i am 6'0 but have a relatively short torso
that is something to factor in when trying suits on
depending on the brand, depending on the cut of suit, depending on how high the rise is, you may be R or L (i have disproportionately long arms so I bounce between 40R and 40L depending on the brand)
anyway
you have to try try try until you find a suit that fits how you want it to next time but for now
- you have a suit that hopefully fits your needs at a price you were willing to pay 👍
- if something doesn't look/feel right when they're done, try to get it fixed. feel free to make another thread beforehand with pics to get a second opinion
- for the future it's worth getting measured/measuring yourself; you'll probably find a better fit and for less money
- some designer suits are good but so are non designer suits
I found this article helpful https://putthison.com/does-it-fit-checklist-a-friend-of-mine-recently/ when trying on suits
Put This On
“Does It Fit?” Checklist
A friend of mine recently had to get a new suit for a wedding (not his), and asked for my...
To me this suit looks much too short, but it might be the angle.
I will be studying finance in university
So I need a businessy suit
so I am thinking navy blue for my next suit
I bought some second hand allen edmonds since I was told they were the gold standard in the finance space
I also have contact with a suit maker in china who makes fully bespoke suits for around 500$ for high quality european wool suits
I am thinking of getting my measurements done here at my tailor, and sending the measurements over there for a suit to be made
I’m going to be honest. I think this is a very bad idea. I would not commission a bespoke suit at any cost until you know what you are doing.
i'd probably see how this suit fits and feels first before going bespoke or MTM
most people have measurements conducive to OTR tailoring plus minor adjustments
$500 is a low price which makes one wonder just how high quality the wool is or what kind of labor practices are involved
it could be worth it but there's lots of factors involved (measurement process, time spent in shipment, tariffs, potential revisions). it may be worth it but i would be cautious
So based on this suit, i should make adjustments to my measurements
you should see if you like the job the tailor did to the suit first
if i dont like how chest fits, add or remove from my measurements, same with sleeve, same with pants
As in the quality of her work, or the choice of work
yes
so both
with respect to the physical suit being altered for you, you want to get the fit right before thinking about measuring it for some theoretical MTM or bespoke option
which, again, i would not recommend for you at this time
I agree, I mean once I understand what I want in a suit and what measurements
So in the suit world, measurements of the actual suit are more important than body measurements
yes
Sounds good
When I get the suit I will come back and we can discuss whats right and whats wrong and what I like and don't like
make a new thread when you do
One thing to keep in mind is bespoke is not necessarily going to fit better or be a better deal for most people. It doesn’t mean it’s necessarily a bad idea but it’s not some short cut to a perfect suit