Oversized blazer
Hey everyone, I’m on the hunt for an oversized blazer that gives that classic 1980s look similar to Armani or YSL. So more specifically something with a relaxed fit, peaked lapels, double-breasted front, and strong padded shoulders. Bonus if you know other brands from that era with similar silhouettes. Also, what should I be mindful of when buying second hand online, namely what’s easy for a tailor to fix and what’s not? Like if the shoulder too wide the blazer would look ill fitting and not purposely oversized. I know my measurements, but not super informed about buying oversized with the intent to adjust.
14 Replies
Hi @boneboy4401! For better answers, include:
- Reference pictures
- Budget in numbers
- Specific measurements
- Openness to buying secondhand and/or online
- Location: country/continent is fine
- Timing/urgency
Honestly I would ideally love Soshiotsuki suits like these but price and availability has been a barrier
honestly i would try to find vintage ysl or armani/armani colezioni (particular the former which isn't that horribly expensive)
you've got the markers of the style down; because of how brands shifted to and from department stores in the 70s and 80s there's a lot of no-name brands that have similar properties, if not the same fabric outright (including makers with Italian sounding names trying and rip off armani, if you'll allow some editorialzing)
every tailor is different but it's difficult to increase the jacket length, widen the shoulders or lengthen the sleeve if there's no extra fabric allowance - you'll want to ensure those measurements are as close to ideal as possible, especially since those are generally the oversized components of the blazer
@oman121 kinda the goat here I’m tagging you in
Actual vintage armani pieces, especially if you're looking for only the blazer, can definitely be found for less than you might think
I have two full vintage armani collezione suits purchased within the last year. Both under $150 each in great condition, and i think both are two "good" examples of armani suiting. I have a blazer I picked up too for around $100
Key with vintage armani is really filtering by new in my experience before resellers and boutiques scoop them up to mark up
If you can't wait for the right deal to come up, search for "vestimenta" blazers and suits
They were a manufacturer for armani and a few other brands and you'll find lots of good examples for less than armani prices too
Appreciate it !!
I came across stuff from Gianfranco Ferre (usually under the diffusion line Ferre Studio 0001) while thrifting that had really similar cuts. Another name you can add to the search list.
Canali seems in the same arena too.
I’ve seen a lot of inspo picks from 80s Hong Kong that also match the vibe - wish I knew what brands they were.
I’ve seen a lot of inspo picks from 80s Hong Kong that also match the vibe - wish I knew what brands they were.
Any advice to get that slouchy oversized fit ? Should I be going certain inch above my regular suit chest size, or I just focus on the sleeve length and shoulders and most other things can be adjusted by a tailor
just focus on this; make sure with vintage armani that it says made in italy. thats usually an indication that it was made before slim suiting came in vogue in the late 2000's
I've mentioned before on here as well that not all armani collezioni is made in italy and some of the later stuff is not that great
I'd also look at monsieur givenchy and zegna, a lot of people are scooping up vintage armani rn so prices are also rising a bit and these two brands can fly under the radar
Amazing thanks!
80s/90s Dior can also be worth checking out
old Gianni Versace too but that usually isn't cheaper than Armani
I usually just go by size tags for big 80s jackets, which is easy for Armani since they usually have those still attached
measurements wise though I usually go for a 17-18 inch shoulder on my 'normal' jackets but my Armani jackets are about 18-19.5 inches wide
Agree with this, the jackets are just cut different so my other measurements don't mean as much in comparison
I go by size tag with armani and mostly just make sure they are at least above the minimum measurements I know I need... i.e. if I usually wear a 22" pit to pit jacket, I'll make sure the jacket is at least above that.
Yeah it's really like a whole other system
I wouldn't usually even consider normal tailoring with the measurements of my armani stuff