EZ-Solder pin snapped off

After the 3x6 columns of the left half of my Corne stopped working (but the thumb keys still work), I figured I would have to reseat the pins for the rows P0.22, P0.24, and P1.00. However, when removing the nice!nano from the EZ-Solder sockets, the pin of P0.24 came loose and snapped clean off. See the image.

Is there a way to salvage the connection somehow, or would I need to replace the entire "pin line" with a replacement?

TyperAI•12/12/25, 3:00 PM

If it’s the header pin that snapped (common when pulling the nice!nano out of EZ‑Solder sockets), you can usually salvage it without replacing the PCB.

Best fix (recommended): replace the header pin(s)

Power off the half + unplug battery.
Pull the nice!nano out.
Check if part of the broken pin is still stuck in the EZ‑Solder socket. If so, carefully pull it out with tweezers/pliers.
Desolder and replace that header pin (or replace the whole header strip on that side of the nice!nano). Replacing the whole strip is often easier than doing a single pin cleanly.
- Keep iron temps reasonable (our guide suggests ~270–300°C): https://docs.typeractive.xyz/build-guides/corne-wireless/nice-nano

### If the pin broke at the nice!nano (pad/hole damaged)
If the P0.24 through-hole/pad is lifted or missing, the reliable options are:

Bodge wire: solder a thin wire from the nice!nano’s P0.24 connection point to the corresponding socket/PCB pad for that column/row.
If there’s no good solderable land left on the nice!nano, you’ll likely need a replacement nice!nano.

Also, since you lost “3x6 columns” on left while thumbs work, it still may be a bad joint/bridge on those pins rather than firmware—worth following: https://docs.typeractive.xyz/troubleshooting/rows-columns-not-working and the Corne pinout page: https://docs.typeractive.xyz/build-guides/corne-wireless/troubleshooting

If you can, reply/tag me with: did the pin snap on the header, or did the nice!nano pad rip up too (and is any metal pin stuck in the socket)?

nice!nano | Typeractive.xyz Documentation

Installing your nice!nano is usually the first step in building your keyboard. In this guide, we'll go over the three different ways to install your nice!nano.

Row(s) or Column(s) Not Working | Typeractive.xyz Documentation

Fix row(s) or column(s) not working on your keyboard.

Troubleshooting & Pinouts | Typeractive.xyz Documentation

If you're running into issues with your keyboard, check out our Troubleshooting page for common issues and solutions. If you're still having trouble, please reach out to use on Discord!

TTyperAI If it’s the *header pin* that snapped (common when pulling the nice!nano out of ...

TrustTheCatsOP•12/12/25, 3:04 PM

The pin snapped on the header, i.e. the pin that is supposed to connect with the socket that is soldered to the PCB itself

TTrustTheCats The pin snapped on the header, i.e. the pin that is supposed to connect with the...

TyperAI•12/12/25, 3:04 PM

Good news: if it snapped on the header pin (not the nice!nano pad), it’s very salvageable.

What to do

Power switch OFF and unplug the battery (safety).
Look inside the EZ‑Solder socket at the P0.24 position:
- If a bit of the pin is stuck in the socket, gently pull it out with fine tweezers/needle-nose pliers.
Replace the header pin:
- Easiest/cleanest is to replace the whole header strip on that side of the nice!nano (rather than a single pin), then reinsert into the sockets.
- If you’re comfortable, you can replace just one pin, but it’s fiddly to align perfectly.
After the new header is in, re-seat the nice!nano and then re-check that your affected rows/cols are soldered well and not bridged (since your original issue sounds like a joint/short too).

Soldering temp guidance for the nice!nano: https://docs.typeractive.xyz/build-guides/corne-wireless/nice-nano
Row/column troubleshooting (very relevant here): https://docs.typeractive.xyz/troubleshooting/rows-columns-not-working

If you post a close-up of the socket + the nice!nano header area (both sides), I can confirm whether anything is still lodged in the socket and whether the header needs full replacement. Reply/tag me so I see it.

nice!nano | Typeractive.xyz Documentation

Installing your nice!nano is usually the first step in building your keyboard. In this guide, we'll go over the three different ways to install your nice!nano.

Row(s) or Column(s) Not Working | Typeractive.xyz Documentation

Fix row(s) or column(s) not working on your keyboard.

TTyperAI Good news: if it snapped on the **header pin** (not the nice!nano pad), it’s ver...

TrustTheCatsOP•12/12/25, 3:07 PM

I would prefer replacing the whole header strip with a new EZ-Solder strip. Does the one sold in the Typeractive store differ from other stores? As I am in Europe, I'd prefer ordering the small replacement part locally.

TTrustTheCats I would prefer replacing the whole header strip with a new EZ-Solder strip. Does...

TyperAI•12/12/25, 3:07 PM

You can source it locally—there’s nothing Corne-specific about the header strip itself. The critical part is matching what your EZ‑Solder sockets expect.

On our builds, the nice!nano side uses standard 2.54mm (0.1") male headers that get soldered to the nice!nano, then plug into the EZ‑Solder sockets on the PCB. A generic 2.54mm straight male header strip is fine.

A couple tips when buying:

Get a strip with square pins (typical breakaway male header).
Make sure it’s straight (not right-angle).
You’ll cut it to length (typically 12 pins per side are used; also remember no pins in B+/B- positions per the guide).

Install notes / orientation reminders: https://docs.typeractive.xyz/build-guides/corne-wireless/nice-nano

If you tell me whether you’re using EZ‑Solder vs no-solder spring headers (sounds like EZ‑Solder), and share a pic of the socket side, I can confirm the exact header style to match. Reply/tag me so I get notified.

nice!nano | Typeractive.xyz Documentation

Installing your nice!nano is usually the first step in building your keyboard. In this guide, we'll go over the three different ways to install your nice!nano.

TTyperAI You can source it locally—there’s nothing Corne-specific about the **header stri...

TrustTheCatsOP•12/12/25, 3:08 PM

I am sing EZ-Solder

TTrustTheCats I am sing EZ-Solder

TyperAI•12/12/25, 3:08 PM

Yep—if you’re using EZ‑Solder, then the part you’re replacing on the nice!nano is just the male header strip/pins, not the EZ‑Solder sockets on the PCB.

Headers: you can buy these locally; a generic 2.54mm (0.1") straight male breakaway header is what you want. No special Typeractive-specific variant required—just cut to length and solder onto the nice!nano.

Sockets: the “EZ‑Solder” sockets that are soldered into the PCB are a specific style. But since your socket is fine and only the header pin snapped, you don’t need to replace sockets.

A couple reminders when reinstalling:

nice!nano goes face down per the guide.
Make sure you do not populate the B+/B- positions (only the bottom 12 per column should have pins).
Keep soldering temps reasonable to avoid damaging the nice!nano (~270–300°C).
Guide: https://docs.typeractive.xyz/build-guides/corne-wireless/nice-nano

If you want, reply/tag me with a photo of the nice!nano after you remove the old header—I'll confirm you’ve got the right type/length before you solder it in.

nice!nano | Typeractive.xyz Documentation

Installing your nice!nano is usually the first step in building your keyboard. In this guide, we'll go over the three different ways to install your nice!nano.

TTyperAI Yep—if you’re using **EZ‑Solder**, then the part you’re replacing on the nice!na...

TrustTheCatsOP•12/12/25, 3:09 PM

Confirm that the issue I explained aligns with the image

TTrustTheCats Confirm that the issue I explained aligns with the image

TyperAI•12/12/25, 3:09 PM

I can’t confirm it against the photo unless the image is actually attached/uploaded here (I’m not seeing it on my end right now). If you re-upload it, I can sanity-check it.

That said, what you described does match a very common failure mode: when pulling a nice!nano out of EZ‑Solder sockets, a male header pin can shear off and either:

leave a stub still soldered in the nice!nano, and/or
leave a broken piece stuck inside the EZ‑Solder socket.

In the pic, the telltales I’d look for are:
1) A pin position on the nice!nano header strip that’s visibly missing/shorter
2) A tiny metal piece still visible inside the corresponding socket hole
3) The socket itself not cracked/lifted off the PCB

If those match, your plan (replace the whole 2.54mm straight male header strip on the nice!nano) is the right fix.

Re-upload the image and tag/reply to me and I’ll confirm exactly which part broke and whether anything is stuck in the socket.

TTyperAI I can’t confirm it against the photo unless the image is actually attached/uploa...

TrustTheCatsOP•12/12/25, 3:12 PM

The original issue was that the keyboard left half was not sending keypresses for the 3x6 keys, the thumb keys worked as expected. Confirm whether a reseated EZ-solder header strip could solve the issue.

TTrustTheCats The original issue was that the keyboard left half was not sending keypresses fo...

TyperAI•12/12/25, 3:12 PM

A reseat/replacing the nice!nano’s header strip could fix the original “3x6 dead but thumbs OK” issue if the failure was simply bad contact at the EZ‑Solder connection (loose/bent/broken pin, header not fully seated, or a pin not actually making contact in the socket).

That symptom pattern strongly points to a hardware connection problem (ZMK/firmware is unlikely to kill exactly a block of keys while leaving others working). The docs call out rows/cols issues as “almost always” solder/short related: https://docs.typeractive.xyz/troubleshooting/rows-columns-not-working

What I’d do after you replace the header strip:
1) Make sure no broken pin fragment is stuck in the EZ‑Solder socket (it can prevent proper contact).
2) Reseat the nice!nano and verify it’s fully down/flush.
3) If the 3x6 is still dead, inspect/reflow the EZ‑Solder socket joints on the PCB for the affected pins and check for solder bridges/shorts (continuity test if you have a multimeter).

So: yes, it’s a plausible fix, but not guaranteed—if the root cause was a cold joint/short on the socket/PCB side, reseating alone won’t resolve it.

If you re-upload the pic (or a close-up of the EZ‑Solder socket holes around P0.24), I can tell you what to look for (stuck fragment vs. socket damage). Reply/tag me so I’m notified.

Row(s) or Column(s) Not Working | Typeractive.xyz Documentation

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