Oh yes. Took me forever to find ones that could handle the current and they gotta be heat sinked
Oh yes. Took me forever to find ones that could handle the current and they gotta be heat sinked
BI wrecked 2 boards before I got it working
BI forget the numbers but I think it’s something like 12x the stock current
BAt least on the pitch axis
PThis is official reply about what openFFB board supports
BThat’s what I remembered
BSo unless they’ve had significant progress since then…
PWhat torque do you get with which current?
Por may be you've measured force on stick
BI did some rough math based on known current and motor specs but honestly I’ve forgotten it 
BI’d have to measure again
SIm suprised the traces are holding up
BThe actual power delivery traces are pretty thick
SI never looked into it that deep and havent tested it yet with 2 axis. Guess we will have to chnage that soon
BMsffb2 board is actually a very good piece of hardware
SI heard rummors it was Bill Gates pet project
BYa same, it’s too bad they dropped it. What I like about Walmis project is it’s reallly the first affordable way for someone to buy a ready to go stick or kit since the ffb2 days.
SI doubled the amps on mine just by adding some 1ohm resistors to the board and it holds up very well as if it was designed for this
BYes that’s the standard mod. Then there’s a guy that made a guide to quadruple power
BAnd I went farther
BCould go MUCH farther by using a break out board with discrete p and n mosfets
DNext thing we need is a commercial FFB yoke and rudder without having the name "Brunner" and costing a fortune
SYeah but your still limited by the resolution 
BI think you can get around that by outputting to a second board
BJust let haven’t tried it yet
SWhat if you reduce the travel and use a lower turn pots
BI need to try wiring them in parallel to the virpil board that’s already in the box
SSince its on a extension it doesnt need to move that much
SOr is the max deflection already small?
SAnd its using the full range of the pots?
BIt’s not quite using full range. Or at least not quite the range it would have used stock
BTrouble would be a smaller turn pot might not work
BBecause I suspect that at firmware level the ffb2 probably disregards part of the pots range
BI think there’s a certain level of firmware pre calibration
SI mean if you have a pot that only turns as far as the stick deflection then you would be using its full range for example 0v - 5v vs using 1v -4v
SAnd it can be calibrated in windows joystick page
SOr it can be adjusted with an adc
BI understand but I think that there is a firmware level calibration as well
SI see
BThat can’t be modified (unless you’re Microsoft lol)
BIn other words these pots turn farther than the stock stick deflects
SWe can figure out what voltage range it accepts
BAnd I believe firmware disregards the extra range
SAnd then use a solution that maximizes that
BOnly reason I would have to try that would be to ensure stick is outputting maximum force. As far as I can tell the stick ignores windows calibration when calculating force. So right now, the part of the board that handles force probably thinks I’m only at 80% deflection when I’m actually at 100%
BSince my gimbal has less deflection than factory slightly
BThe reason I know it ignores windows calibration is I had to manually fine-tune position of pots to make sure force was centered correctly
SYeah it does
BWhen I first built it one of the pots was slightly off center and windows calibration wouldn’t fix
BRotating pot fixed
SBut it only sees the voltage