I doubled the amps on mine just by adding some 1ohm resistors to the board and it holds up very well
I doubled the amps on mine just by adding some 1ohm resistors to the board and it holds up very well as if it was designed for this
BYes that’s the standard mod. Then there’s a guy that made a guide to quadruple power
BAnd I went farther
BCould go MUCH farther by using a break out board with discrete p and n mosfets
DNext thing we need is a commercial FFB yoke and rudder without having the name "Brunner" and costing a fortune
SYeah but your still limited by the resolution 
BI think you can get around that by outputting to a second board
BJust let haven’t tried it yet
SWhat if you reduce the travel and use a lower turn pots
BI need to try wiring them in parallel to the virpil board that’s already in the box
SSince its on a extension it doesnt need to move that much
SOr is the max deflection already small?
SAnd its using the full range of the pots?
BIt’s not quite using full range. Or at least not quite the range it would have used stock
BTrouble would be a smaller turn pot might not work
BBecause I suspect that at firmware level the ffb2 probably disregards part of the pots range
BI think there’s a certain level of firmware pre calibration
SI mean if you have a pot that only turns as far as the stick deflection then you would be using its full range for example 0v - 5v vs using 1v -4v
SAnd it can be calibrated in windows joystick page
SOr it can be adjusted with an adc
BI understand but I think that there is a firmware level calibration as well
SI see
BThat can’t be modified (unless you’re Microsoft lol)
BIn other words these pots turn farther than the stock stick deflects
SWe can figure out what voltage range it accepts
BAnd I believe firmware disregards the extra range
SAnd then use a solution that maximizes that
BOnly reason I would have to try that would be to ensure stick is outputting maximum force. As far as I can tell the stick ignores windows calibration when calculating force. So right now, the part of the board that handles force probably thinks I’m only at 80% deflection when I’m actually at 100%
BSince my gimbal has less deflection than factory slightly
BThe reason I know it ignores windows calibration is I had to manually fine-tune position of pots to make sure force was centered correctly
SYeah it does
BWhen I first built it one of the pots was slightly off center and windows calibration wouldn’t fix
BRotating pot fixed
SBut it only sees the voltage
SDoesnt see how much the pot is actually turning
SAnd you can even use adcs to adjust the voltage up and down or zoom it in and out
BSo I suppose if I could find pots that had just a slightly smaller angle stick might work better. Maybe i could even really overhaul it and use hall sensors
SHall sensors are a pain in the but
SIdk about all of them but the ones I have a voltage drop
SAnd they are super noisy
SMaybe I have some shitty ones
BI do have some experience with them, I have a Cessna TPM quadrant that I’m producing that uses them and I’ve had good results. But those are fancy ones with internal adc and I’d have to use different ones for stick
SYou can also use any encoder that gets read by an arduino and then converted to progamable resistor that the ffb board sees
SOh thats why
SThese are the little shits I baught
SJust stick with your pots
PThere are programable angle sensors with analog output. For example KMA210 is integrated and you do not need external components for it. or KMZ 60 but you need additional schematic for it to change angle range.
PI was using KMA210 for their easy reprogramming and integrated form.
PAS5600 is programable as well
VYep - Stuff goes past pretty quick here…. Interesting that people seem to be building their own. I do not really want to do that although I have built stuff using Hall Effect Transistors (like above) before. Just would like to see what the cost of the kit is etc. There does not seem to be a website.
MRegular DC motors tend to have nasty cogging between the poles unless the armature is skewed (Pittman Lo-Cog, Glentec...), but these types of motors are much more expensive than brushless when bought new and good luck finding them used in the voltage/wattage you want and even then you generally end up in the same (or greater!) costs than going with a fully developed BLDC solution that outperforms it in every quantifiable category