Does this mean you can’t have a gear reduction resulting in a greater than 360 degree rotation of th
Does this mean you can’t have a gear reduction resulting in a greater than 360 degree rotation of the motor? Is there any way around this?
SDoing some quick math, this probabaly wont be an issue. A 10x gear reduction would still give me 36 degrees of play which is perfectly fine
AI'm not an expert but afaik doing several rotations is not a showstopper, you just need some way of telling which rotation you're on at any given time
Si believe you can go past 360 without issue, its just that you have to be in the center when you power it up. the encoder goes from 0 to 4096, but will happily read values like -1000 to 5000 if you go beyond. If you power it up with the stick at -1000, it will think its at 3096.
Bthe way non-direct drive wheels solve this is they do a "motion range" spin on power up to recenter itself. Doing this with a stick sounds like playing wackfuck every time you power it up
PDon't know if it's even possible & I'm sure if it is it'd be a lot of extra work, but what about a clutch system so the motors could do the start up calibration without moving the stick?
Bseems more simple to have it do the motion range thing, but at a slow pace
RAnother alternative is to do like a 3d Printer and have it home to a set of end stops. Presumably in a direction away from your crotch.
SIs their spec sheet somewhere for the "joystick" ? 
Amaybe soon
KHey @walmis I was wondering about third party grips. Do you think it would be possible to add grips like Komodo EC145 or OE-XAM grips to this base?
Or would it require additional soldering perhaps?
I can't seem to find any helicopter grips that would fit the Rhino
Or would it require additional soldering perhaps?
I can't seem to find any helicopter grips that would fit the Rhino
WYeah an adapter would be needed. Either using a shift register to wire the buttons or using a microcontroller to translate the signals.
RSpeaking of grips, how does the rhino handle the thrust master warthog versus the virpil alpha their weight is substantially different
WYouTubeMike Richardson
I really like the fact that I can get a much more accurate feel of cable, push-rod or hydraulic control systems, on top of that rotary, no having to swap cam's just one of the things that make the Rhino so good. On this profile I have around 3kg damping force dialed in.
For more info on the FFB Rhino join the discord group
Web: https://vpforc...
For more info on the FFB Rhino join the discord group
Web: https://vpforc...
KAmazing I like that leather protector. I guess that's something homemade?
KThis is for advanced soldering people?
KIt seems very advanced
KMy dream is to be able to transform my Komodo EC145 grip in to Rhino compatible
LI got mine from amazon for cheap
L@keem85 https://amzn.eu/d/1qWVW2G
AERZETIX: Schaltsack schaltmanschette kunstleder dunkelgrau
KAnd you 3dprinted a cover to screw it on to?
LYes
Lhere it is
Korper4.stl84.07KB
L
KNice! Would love to know how to make custom grips for the Rhino though. A gamechanger if possible without the need for soldering skills etc.
Is there a guide for doing custom grips for the Rhino?
Is there a guide for doing custom grips for the Rhino?
AIt would be suprising to me if you could make a custom grip completely without soldering
ABut maybe there are suitable electronics available that don't requier too much tinkering
KWould be nice to have a wiring scheme for the shift register.
LHey I am here only for a game of whack-f*ck 
RSearch debolestis shift register.
R@Kalixto Hate to break it to you, but you will have to learn a basic and valuable skill soldering. Good news is it’s quite easy and not expensive.
Dreddit
3 votes and 14 comments so far on Reddit
DSadly, the project didnt get enough community interest and the developer is focusing on making it only for himself, the issue was the price for something like this was gonna be €202, which is a bit much for what it is
DKeep in mind when developing and building a joystick
R3D print or 3D print mold to resin is much cheaper. To say nothing of re tasking injection moulded commercial plastic housings. Like I did with my Thrustmaster X-Fighter B8 grip or the Suncom F-15/hornet stick I’ll eventually get around to finishing now that I have a trigger solution.
Most actual sticks are slush cast resin, not metal. You can slush cast resin in a lot of mold materials.
Most actual sticks are slush cast resin, not metal. You can slush cast resin in a lot of mold materials.
RHeck you can carve the stick out of clay, and build a mold off that.
T@keem85 @Kalixto I’ve done two custom 3D printed sticks from scratch, both using freejoy as the way to interface with my PC. Version 3 will be modified from V2 for a VPForce DIY kit. Custom design for someone who hasn’t done modeling before will be tough. But wiring has been made very simple by Walmis with the shift register board. It will require basic soldering skills but as @.rustbelt said this is a simple skill to learn. Pair it with the 3D printed F-4 Phantom grip listed above and you would have a great place to start to learn wiring. From there you could move on to learning to model your own grip keeping in mind the things you learned from wiring the previous.
TAlso my best modeling tip: If I was going to start from scratch again, I would first start with the electronics I wanted and build a grip around them rather than what I did which was build a grip shape and then try to fit buttons and functions in after the fact.
TOther modeling tips:
Start with a reference. Virpil as profile views of all their grips with some dimensions, you can use these to help guide how to shape and size your grips.
If you are just starting with modeling, YouTube is your friend. Also practice modeling things you have laying around to learn the different functions and different possibilities to get to the final result.
Start with a reference. Virpil as profile views of all their grips with some dimensions, you can use these to help guide how to shape and size your grips.
If you are just starting with modeling, YouTube is your friend. Also practice modeling things you have laying around to learn the different functions and different possibilities to get to the final result.
TPCB prototype board kits are a great place to start for through-hole soldering practice. You also might want to buy some bulk buttons/switches to practice soldering wires to the terminals. Making a button box with a freejoy or a bodnar board is a great place to learn soldering and build something practical to use. If you go the freejoy route, you can do a button matrix for a challenge problem, but I would say if you are confident enough to do a button matrix you could manage the shift register wiring and it would be much easier.
KI've got the grip ready, and I moded a thrustmaster with a teensy PCB, my question is about analog microcontroller, like the joysticks from the Xbox 360 first gen, those have a hall sensor in it. I think you can't use shift register with analog.
KGreat info, thank you! I think I will be able to solder. but I must know that I am soldering correctly.
I really really want to use a H145 grip (only seen by Komodo and Max Flight Stick so far), but these grips are so incredibly rare, so naturally I'm scared to destroy it.
But let's say I decide to solder my H145 grip. Would I just unscrew it from my Komodo cyclic and cut all the wires about 10-20cm sticking out from underneath the grip? And then solder this "freejoy" on to those sticking-out-cables?
I really really want to use a H145 grip (only seen by Komodo and Max Flight Stick so far), but these grips are so incredibly rare, so naturally I'm scared to destroy it.
But let's say I decide to solder my H145 grip. Would I just unscrew it from my Komodo cyclic and cut all the wires about 10-20cm sticking out from underneath the grip? And then solder this "freejoy" on to those sticking-out-cables?
KAnd, are there any guides on this on this Discord channel? Would love to watch some videos of people retrofitting older grips.
WIt says that it has USB2.0 protocol, so I assume it connects to PC directly (kinda like VKB adapter going with the cable)
WWoh, it's a collective here
K(That is a collective grip by the way) 
Hmm, but the end-plug on this cyclic grip I have has this weird shaped huge "din-like" plug
Hmm, but the end-plug on this cyclic grip I have has this weird shaped huge "din-like" plug
KI'm not home to check it now, but the plug is big, and has like 8 or 10 pins I think
Ware the pins documented?
KNo, I'm fairly certain they aren't
Khey I have a pic two sec