How to know if I can trust a custom tailor?

I got a custom blazer recently and had a bad experience. The tailor promised me it'd be handmade but it doesn't seem to be (although sleeve buttons are removable). It also doesn't fit me very well; too large in the chest but too narrow in the waist. In the future, what are some ways to figure out if a tailor is trustworthy to avoid repeating this experience.
29 Replies
jfarrell468
jfarrell4687mo ago
What do you mean by "custom tailor"? Was it internet or in person?
awburkey
awburkey7mo ago
What were you expecting with “handmade”?
HaveanA1day
HaveanA1day7mo ago
As opposed to machine-made. This was in-person. Made to measure, to be more precise.
tun🌻
tun🌻7mo ago
Pretty much all clothing is hand-made, very little can be effectively automated. How can you tell / what signs are you looking for to tell if it's handmade? I assume you're not expecting them to have done all the stitching by hand as opposed to using a sewing machine?
Wonkymythology
Wonkymythology7mo ago
Most tailoring at most levels involves at least some machine stitching. You could post a photo here, tell us more about the cost and process, and some of the suit guys will be able to give their two cents on whether it's fixable and whether you got your money's worth
tun🌻
tun🌻7mo ago
In terms of ways to tell if someone is trustworthy/ of reputable quality, the main ways to tell are: reviews(!), is their pricing undercutting the market rate (usually a bad sign), and do they have examples of their work you can see It might also just be worth going back to them for a 2nd sitting as it were, to work out any adjustments needed
awburkey
awburkey7mo ago
Right. Do you want the fabric hand-woven? All of the stitching done by hand? “Handmade” doesn’t mean anything specific but you seem unsatisfied with what you received so I’m trying to figure out what exactly you expected vs what you got. I have a feeling your expectations need to be adjusted and it’s possible the product delivered was also sub-par tho
Benji
Benji7mo ago
MTM is also quite different from bespoke
HaveanA1day
HaveanA1day7mo ago
He told me it'd be handmade, so if one says "all clothing is hand-made," then he is disingenuous at best. By hand-made, I meant the finishes and pick stitches. In any case, the jacket just doesn't fit me very well, and the construction is not great. I likely could've gotten a better-fitting jacket off the rack for much cheaper. I think it'd be pretty difficult to find proper bespoke this side of the pond.
Benji
Benji7mo ago
Well isn't bespoke far more likely to have handiwork than MTM? It sounds like the person who sold it to you used somewhat misleading marketing but it also helps to be specific asking questions to avoid unmatched expectations Fit wise it'd help to post a pic, and people here can assess and tell you whether it can be salvaged
HaveanA1day
HaveanA1day7mo ago
I would assume bespoke would have more handiwork than MTM.
Benji
Benji7mo ago
Also, style and fit wise, MTM uses a block pattern which may not work for you so it's important to learn more about the pattern and try on/take a look at already made garments in that pattern
HaveanA1day
HaveanA1day7mo ago
Will do. I will post pictures of the interior as well.
Benji
Benji7mo ago
it is confusing and it's unfortunate your experience didn't work out
awburkey
awburkey7mo ago
Handmade isn’t a prerequisite for high quality. I could make a suit by hand and it’d be total garbage. You haven’t given nearly enough information for anyone to help you. If you want to complain I guess that’s fine but with no pictures or information about the process, what you asked for vs what you received no one can help you
Nacho
Nacho7mo ago
what do you mean by that? Britain, USA? both have plenty of bespoke tailors what confuses me tho in addition to the lack of context is why you weren't able to get the blazer altered? did you not tell the tailor it was ill-fitting? did you tell him and he refused to fix it?
HaveanA1day
HaveanA1day7mo ago
USA. I can't think of many major bespoke houses here. There are many in the UK.
awburkey
awburkey7mo ago
There’s tons of trunk shows
gimp
gimp7mo ago
There's a number of bespoke makers in the US but setting that aside, did you bring these complaints to the tailor/fitter and what have they done to make it right? Post photos.
jfarrell468
jfarrell4687mo ago
Yeah...I think it's not reasonable to expect "handstitched", but it IS reasonable to expect a suit that fits.
HaveanA1day
HaveanA1day7mo ago
Well, he did say "handmade". So he was either ignorant or taking advantage of my ignorance.
jfarrell468
jfarrell4687mo ago
I don't think they were taking advantage of you. I think you both had different interpretations of what "handmade" means. If I had a sewing machine and used it to make a shirt, I would call that "handmade". And if a tailor measured you and made a suit for you, I would call that "handmade", regardless of how much of it was done with a sewing machine.
awburkey
awburkey7mo ago
Gonna keep it 💯 I'm not sure you know what "handmade" means
TemporaryUsername-
The important, unanswered question is still did you tell him it didn't fit well? Even someone doing a hem at the dry cleaners will normally work with you if you're not happy with the result.
awburkey
awburkey7mo ago
We also still haven't seen pics and idk what you're unhappy about it being "handmade"
HaveanA1day
HaveanA1day7mo ago
So what isn't handmade?
gimp
gimp7mo ago
Look, do we want to dither over handmade or solve problems? I wanna help solve problems, we can debate definitions after the problem is solved
Nacho
Nacho7mo ago
mass-produced, ready-to-wear garments but also what gimp said
awburkey
awburkey7mo ago
I'd still love to see a picture of the jacket istg Honestly not very much. Especially in tailoring. It depends on what you're expecting. Like button holes being hand sewn is a common upsell/"handmade" thing similar with the pick stitching. But the sleeves were probably attached "by hand" meaning that a real human was involved, even if they used a sewing machine. When people think of "handmade" they often have an incorrect view that it's someone sitting there with needles and thread when really "handmade" is much more often a person operating a machine. This is handmade and the reality of garment making almost always