Help with sizing on this Yohji coat

Found this coat I’m kind of mesmerized by, but I don’t really get Yohji sizing and the proportions are confusing: Size is listed as M-L Shoulder width: 52cm Sleeve length: 55cm Chest width: 70cm Length: 123cm Now, I’m 1.78, and skinny: My shoulder width is 45cm Arms 63cm My full chest size is 81cm So would this be massive on me or just oversized? I don’t get it. Any help would be appreciated.
15 Replies
hecklebuckle
hecklebuckle6mo ago
Do you currently own any Yohji? This coat is definitely designed to fit oversized with a dropped shoulder.
Toma
Toma6mo ago
No don’t have any Yohji Half my clothes are oversized so I like the look I’m just afraid that the sleeves will be longer than my palms Or rather fingers
hecklebuckle
hecklebuckle6mo ago
You can do dirty math by adding half the shoulder measurement to the sleeve measurement and comparing with something you own But it will be hard to guess with any great accuracy ime There does look to be a wrist strap to help tighten the cuff
Toma
Toma6mo ago
Alright thanks I think I’ll just take the chance and buy it, worse case I can resell It seems like you know some Yohji, is the Y’s line much worse in quality compared to pour homme? Tried looking online and didn’t find anything
hecklebuckle
hecklebuckle6mo ago
Y’s quality is great, it just tends to have more “conventional” designs than mainline And FWIW historically Y’s is the women’s line, Y’s for men is the men’s line Not sure if that’s changed more recently since SSENSE lists the men’s line as Y’s now With something sized like that coat I wouldn’t care either way though Also @De La Joel is our resident Yohji expert and may have valuable info to add
Toma
Toma6mo ago
Yeah I don’t mind that it’s women’s Ah, will wait on the expert then, I’ve been looking at Yohji ever since I found about designer fashion, but got caught up in different styles until now. Want my first addition to be memorable Thanks for the answers
De La Joel
De La Joel6mo ago
Someone correct me if I’m wrong but I think this would be quite short in the sleeves especially once you layer up under it? It would definitely be huge in the body but that is the intention, with Yohji you sort of just subject yourself to the silhouette. Yohji womenswear can be tricky because it tends to be sized exclusively for petite women (even if the item is oversized in the body) so shoulders and sleeves tend to be the limiting factor. In my experience the difference in quality between Pour Homme and Y’s is negligible especially if this is your first Yy piece With Pour Homme you’ll expect to find slightly better fabric compositions, slightly more robust construction, but it’s not worth fussing over most of the time.
Toma
Toma6mo ago
So you’re saying it’s going to be wide body-wise but the sleeves will run up my arms when I move? It kind of is haha but I’ve been searching and I can’t find an actual long coat that has a fluidity and movement to it from pour homme under like 1000$ used So far this has been the only one with an affordable price point that caught my eye, but if it’s going to be as you said that is disappointing
De La Joel
De La Joel6mo ago
That’s what I mean “it’s not worth fussing over” because the gulf in price between Y’s and Pour Homme on the used market is huge so I don’t think it’s fair to compare lines that are in completely different price brackets. What are the shoulder and sleeve measurements on a coat/jacket you already own?
Toma
Toma6mo ago
I can’t check right now because I’m at work But Iirc an oversized jacket of mine has sleeves that are 67cm long and shoulder width is 50 But it’s also pretty firm Most of the shirts I like have sleeves that are 60cm+ actually which doesn’t bode well for the coat huh
De La Joel
De La Joel6mo ago
Yeah I’d probably rule this one out. Also need to take into account how slim the sleeves could be
Toma
Toma6mo ago
Damnit, really special too and I think it’s from the 90s Thanks for the advice saved me from an embarrassing purchase I’ll just lurk in eBay and yahoo.jp for a bit longer
De La Joel
De La Joel6mo ago
You’re welcome. Have you tried searching for ground y coats?
Toma
Toma6mo ago
I simply search Yohji or Yohji Yamamoto to cover all the lines when searching Pour homme doesn’t even give pour homme pieces and Y’s is too short to register in search hah
hecklebuckle
hecklebuckle6mo ago
ワイズフォーメン = Y’s for men