Getting overheated with a shetland sweater over an oxford button-down

I like Derek Guy. I like his whole hardy, textured, lived-in fabric thing.

Over the years, I have amassed quite a few nice sweaters, including shetland sweaters. And I would love to wear them over an oxford shirt.

I have a problem, though — I get too hot! I live in NY, and wearing the getup over a big coat (in a tweedy wool, of course) works fine when I'm outdoors. When I'm indoors, though, it's just too warm in my underarm area.

I've tried a few things, but nothing quite works. I've tried roomier button-downs underneath the sweaters for airflow + an Uniqlo airism undershirt. That helps — to a point. I've tried cardigans over button-downs, which looks great but doesn't help with the armpit sweat. I've tried non-oxford button-down shirts in lighter fabrics. But those tend to look odd and disproportionate in heft to the sweater. (One Spier & MacKay linen-cotton blend shirt I got works pretty well, because it has some texture to it and has a big collar. More recs are welcome!)

And putting a sportcoat over a sweater and button-down? Forget about it.

Any other advice? Is there something I'm doing wrong?
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