Had a p1s for like 2/3 months now and it's been close to flawless, only times it fd up is when I des
Had a p1s for like 2/3 months now and it's been close to flawless, only times it fd up is when I designed/setup something very wrong
MI have the Bambu X1C after owning/modding Creality printers for years. Bambu's are literally up and running in 30 minutes after unboxing, and that includes firmware updates and auto calibrations. On top of that they are blazingly fast compared to bed slingers
You don't have to climb the steep learning curve of printer tuning/tweaking to get good/perfect results with Bambu. As close to a home appliance as you can get. I have weeks/months and several hundred dollars invested in upgrading an Ender 5 Pro and CR-10 to get the print quality I wanted. It was worth it as a hobbyist, and I learned a lot along the way. After getting the X1, they both collect dust unless I need to print something larger than the X1s build volume on the CR-10.
You don't have to climb the steep learning curve of printer tuning/tweaking to get good/perfect results with Bambu. As close to a home appliance as you can get. I have weeks/months and several hundred dollars invested in upgrading an Ender 5 Pro and CR-10 to get the print quality I wanted. It was worth it as a hobbyist, and I learned a lot along the way. After getting the X1, they both collect dust unless I need to print something larger than the X1s build volume on the CR-10.
TYou’re the second person who suggested the X1 so I may have to look into it.. I was told it’s pricey so be ready but yeah I would prefer the buy once cry once over the endless tinkering and upgrading of the low and mid tier models.
FTbh if you dont need to print special materials like carbon fibre reinforced filament you can get by with a p1s which is close to half the cost
Fand if you dont really care about printing specific/very high performance parts the a1 might even be sufficient
Falso from what i found carbon fibre filament is not as strong as many believe as the fibres seem to interfere with the base material
MYou can get a hardened steel nozzle for the P1, and a set of hardened steel extruder gears for @$50 US.
I tried PLA-CF initially for my DIY Rhino, and regular PLA was much stronger with better layer adhesion (I assume because the plastic is not diluted by micro fibers). CF does result in an amazingly smooth surface finish cosmetically
I tried PLA-CF initially for my DIY Rhino, and regular PLA was much stronger with better layer adhesion (I assume because the plastic is not diluted by micro fibers). CF does result in an amazingly smooth surface finish cosmetically
Fyeah, this is why im happy i didnt go for x1c
Fit seems CF is weaker than normal funnily enough
Falso apparently colour matters a ton
MThe X1 has some nice upgrades out of the box you can't get on the P1. Most notably the touch screen and LIDAR (for dynamically adjusting filament flow). To be honest I rarely use the touch screen as you can do everything from the Bambu slicer software. The LIDAR is nice if you use a lot of different filament brands, but if you don't it is easy to setup profiles for the brand you use most. Speed and results are the same P1 to X1
SI believe it's mine 
And tommorow it's expected to arrive 
Just can't wait 
And tommorow it's expected to arrive Just can't wait 
MDid this today with P1 and CF this is the top surface amazingly smooth like brushed steel part is 6mm thick panel
JDo you have a 3d printer?
JThe X1C is a fantastic printer. The P1 series are also amazing.
V:package: 
RHINO #0495 Has Shipped!
RHINO #0495 Has Shipped!
FI still have to tune it or dry my filament but pla and ironing gives an insanely flat surface
V:package: 
RHINO #0496 Has Shipped!
RHINO #0496 Has Shipped!V:package: 
RHINO #0497 Has Shipped!
RHINO #0497 Has Shipped!JYou know I've never actually tried "Ironing". I've seen it and just kept forgetting to research it!
SWhat ur not ironing your clothes? Heresy
J
Digital Combat Simulator | DCS World | Combat Simulator
The Boeing CH-47F Chinook fondly referred to as 'The Hook' by US military personnel, stands today as the premier multi-mission rotary wing aircraft in use with the US Army, US Army Reserve, National Guard and 20 other nations including Canada, the United Kingdom, Netherlands, Japan, Italy, Greece, Spain, South Korea, Australia, Türkiye, India an...
JComes out June 26th
PI want the typhoon
D@Jon (Bounty_V) my God man! The chinook mod in DCS is the most unique helo you will fly ... Now it's a full fidelity module!!!??? I think I just pulled the trigger on the TPR ffb pedal mod.
JAlongside the C-130 the Hook has been my most anticipated module
Yeah I need to get some MFG Crosswinds and that mod myself. I'm just terrible at DIY and want some sort of drill template or something so I literally can't mess up
Yeah I need to get some MFG Crosswinds and that mod myself. I'm just terrible at DIY and want some sort of drill template or something so I literally can't mess up
Fwhat will FFB pedals even do in a helicopter?
I understand them for warbirds but why for helicopters?
I understand them for warbirds but why for helicopters?
Jif u dont wanna take the spring off, will keep pedals in place for you
Jso you arent constantly holding them at a certain point or setting up some sort of trim
Jits also a feel thing
Fah, okay. I have a damper for the MFGs that hold them in place for me.
Jthis would do the same thing and then you're future proofed for any potential ffb effects made for pedals
FI'd have to find a way to fixate the pedals first then
VCan someone break down how telemFFB talks to the VPforce motors? Is it possible to have telemFFB generate FFB effects based on game telemetry and send them to a DirextX FFB device such as the Open FFboard?
VI suppose that information is classified 
is there a chance that telemFFB will support other motor-drivers in the future?
is there a chance that telemFFB will support other motor-drivers in the future?
NIts open source, no secrets. This is the custom driver here: https://github.com/walmis/VPforce-TelemFFB/blob/wip/ffb_rhino.py
From that file...
From that file...
C
CArrived in Brasil! 
Sdumb question will the rhino turn itself off or go into a low power mode if it gets too hot?
Sand 2. question what is a temp thats to hot for it?
Fim sure it has overcurrent protection for certain and i heard it does do one of those things, forgot which
Fi think max temp is somewhere between 60 and 80c but not sure
BThe motors should be able to handle 100 degrees celcius, granted not finding specific winding temperatures for this model, but the magnets hold til about 110-120 degrees. you should have to work the motors pretty hard to get there, and they shouldn't de magnetize at those temps either, just go weak until they cool down so even if it goes there you shouldn't cause permanent damage.
Athe rhino will reduce the forces gradually until it can cope with the heat load
WIf you’re running the Rhino at lower force settings, will it overheat often?
Hjust wanna personally thank @walmis and @Subsonic (Protomaker) for this amazing Project, you made many simmers -including me- happy!
Aif you go low enough it won't overheat pretty much ever
Fmine never went above 35°C yet. lol
SAll the credit goes to @walmis
It is his genius invention, I just put together the instructions for how to built one.
We all love this hobby. Happy to help smooth the process for all the DIY folks.
It is his genius invention, I just put together the instructions for how to built one.
We all love this hobby. Happy to help smooth the process for all the DIY folks.
MI've run mine reasonably high for going on a year now, and I haven't even heard the fan turn on, let alone have any overheat issues