I am also pretty certain that you won't get a mail about your position. just confirmation that you are on the list and then when you are able to order.
There are some others but mainly Iβve seen those two (NLR one is apparently not very comfy while the MT sims is highly rated but also more expensive)
With it being narrow and flat, its not an issue at all. Compared to the usual more racing inspired gaming chairs that tend to trap you in. These encourage more manoeuvrability. ( I have the boeing one) I honestly prefer the thin, flat, high back to the low back chair I could otherwise use.
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This video includes mini-reviews of several office chairs tha...
I have a SecretLab Titan XL, and would never buy one again. The first thing that happened is that the armrests' covering started to "bubble". I had to whine loudly b4 they decided to ship me new ones, initially saying no until I threatened to post about it on Facebook. For the last year or so, they've been getting some very noticeable wear as shown. Now, I sit in this chair a LOT but I had a $250 Costco office chair that I used for probably 15 years and it never did anything like that.
Iβm probably at 31-33 years with my Aeron. It was expensive at first but amortized over the years itβs been cheap. Itβs still in excellent condition and will probably last 30 more without breaking a sweat. Iβve had a happy back all these years.
Hey guys, I have a general question about an emergency stop configuration. My goal is to have a single button to shut down my motion platform, ffb hardware and seat belt all at once.... My proposed setup: 1. Master stop button runs off 5v USB power and powers a 4x optocoupler module. Should only be a few milliamps to drive the optocouplers. 2. Devices have a 24V built in relay in the power circuit, with a low load line that closes the relay via the optocoupler. My reasoning is that this way, I have one central button, and no high amperage lines all over. Does this work and is it safe?
That's certainly effective but I would prefer to keep all the electronics running, and just cut power to anything that moves. Currently I have no mains voltage on the rig itself. It is mainly about physical safety, electrical/fire safety is ok without need for this button. And the haptics should be a single red, intuitive STOP button which the occupant or any bystander can smack intuitively when something seems dangerous.
Any F-14 drivers here. I am having two issues since getting Rhino. One of them is, altitude autopilot does not work as expected once I press Autopilot Reference button on stick. Second is, joy travels quite far forward from me. I need to redo take off trim to 2 degrees.
just started using the various UH60 mods for DCS - what's the best way to get them up and running the rhino? (from what I can see some form of force trim seems to have been implememted although not sure)
That seems reasonable to me. I would just make sure all of the critical bits fail in the open state. I think some solid state relays can fail in the closed state, so thatβs bad. Belt and suspenders version would have a secondary pass through another relay. The idea being if one of the relays fails in the closed state, the secondary one will be the fail-safe. Have a look at multi pole contactor relays used in CNC machines.
You can set up a momentary button for enable and then it will stay enabled until either a momentary stop or E-stop button breaks the enable circuit. Kinda like logic but done with a relay. Iβll try to find a link to an example circuit.
I canβt help but I have seen it posted by more than one person about the F14 specifically losing AOA when trying to use Altitude auto pilot?
Again I donβt own F14 so Iβm only relaying what I remember but youβre not the first person Iβve seen post this so search for it and maybe you and the other two Tomcats can work together on a solution until some sort of telem patch is sorted out