Thanks , glad to be green. It was fun to put together
Thanks , glad to be green. It was fun to put together
TYeah that’s the fun part is knowing you played some small part in making it all happen.
For me we have small children so I love when they sit back and watch Daddy turn a huge pile of stuff into something cool..
I want to pass on the DIY spirit and show them you can build anything!
That’s why I really love the DIY. It’s a mindset I get to pass onto my kids while also… hey I get to build some cool ish’
For me we have small children so I love when they sit back and watch Daddy turn a huge pile of stuff into something cool..
I want to pass on the DIY spirit and show them you can build anything!
That’s why I really love the DIY. It’s a mindset I get to pass onto my kids while also… hey I get to build some cool ish’
TPost a link to your pic in the DIY section and I bet they will Green you there.
You earned it my fellow Rhino driver!
You earned it my fellow Rhino driver!
TAlso love your custom stick? Looks great for sure man
BYou can never fail a diy project, its only the previous version caught fire is all, next one wont have faulty wiring.
Its also very common, at least for me, to take "thinking breaks" and they might look like me just watching netflix for two years.
Its also very common, at least for me, to take "thinking breaks" and they might look like me just watching netflix for two years.
TFor trimming, i clicked "Hardware Force Trim" and "Override Trim" and i have the trim assignments in DCS empty. When i trim, the stick goes back but as soon as i release the trim, it goes back to center. Is that supposed to be like this or do i do something wrong?
BMost, if not all of them, dcs modules handle trimming natively so you don't need to use the option for that in the configurator, just bind them as usual in the module controls.
DThanks! I will try these settings out today.
V:package: 
RHINO #0566 Has Shipped!
RHINO #0566 Has Shipped!V:package: 
RHINO #0569 Has Shipped!
RHINO #0569 Has Shipped!V:package: RHINO #0568 Has Shipped!
RHINO #0568 Has Shipped!B
RIt s 38cm curved extension. I need to update that posting. thank for reminder. My build is posted in here somewhere.
(Here is a screenshot of my telemffb not the page with all the nice sliders on it for effects etc
(
NYou are in the offline/sim/class editor. Load into an aircraft with the sim running and you will see what you are looking for in the settings tab of the main UI where you can make real-time adjustments.
The page in your screenshot is for editing aircraft that are not actively loaded in a running sim and/or setting defaults at a sim level or aircraft class level.
The page in your screenshot is for editing aircraft that are not actively loaded in a running sim and/or setting defaults at a sim level or aircraft class level.
N(Ah thanks I knew I was doing something wrong
OThe long wait is over. It’s here and I’ve got to get a QR attachment for it, I know just the guy for the job
V:package: 
RHINO #0572 Has Shipped!
RHINO #0572 Has Shipped!V:package: RHINO #0570 Has Shipped!
RHINO #0570 Has Shipped!V:package: RHINO #0571 Has Shipped!
RHINO #0571 Has Shipped!
BDoes anyone know roughly how much time/effort it would take to put together and setup a rhino if you had all the right pieces and equipment?
.Took me 5hour
BOnly? Cool
BI was expecting 15+ hours
.Isn't hard if you have the right tools.
Get some needle nose, adjustable small ratche , allen ranch , screw drivers and a beer
Get some needle nose, adjustable small ratche , allen ranch , screw drivers and a beer
BYes sir
.I recommend you the kit this guys sell @SR-FWinger[73]_David , unless you are gonna print the parts youself.
.He pre assemble the hardest part for you.
BOk
BI know a guy with a 3d printer otherwise
.You are gonna enjoy putting it together.
.And have a better understanding of how it works too
BI just want one for cheaper but yeah
(I got the kit from @SR-FWinger[73]_David and the motors from @walmis which were both delivered within two weeks and then it took me only around 5 hours to assemble
(Cost wise it’s about the same as a built one but no waiting around for an impatient guy like me
(@walmis can you remove me from the preorder for a pan assembled one so everybody moves up a place
BIt is probably cheaper if you print the plastic yourself
(Definitely cheaper if you print yourself and if you have a half decent printer there are no complicated parts i was just too impatient to have to wait for me to get the time to print as some of the parts were 14-20 hour prints
BI have no idea what printer the guy I know has but it should be fine
(Start sourcing the bearings and screws etc so you are good to go once the prints are done and order the motors
BSorry for late answer but it is the "DIY FFB kit: 57BLF03 x2" right?
Nit just depends how much you want to put into the materials
Nyou can really save a lot of money if you go for the bare minimum on prints, not so much on bearings/fasteners that are pretty much going to be a constant price
NDavid's kit has the advantage of a much more similar upper gimbal to actual vpforce, so based around an extrusion + compatible with vpforce metal grip connector upgrade
NI think he also uses pa12 for the grip connector itself, and completely solid prints for the gimbal parts
BOk
BI think Im gonna cheap out as much as I can without it falling apart like paper
TBetween 5 and 10hours is a great estimate on the amount of work.
Depends on how confident you are with medium scale projects and/or the quality of prints also makes a slightly difference.
If you’re comfortable with a soldering station and have that preset up and you’ve got some random bits of wire or heat shrink you’ll be just fine.
Follow the guide.
Follow the guide.
Follow. The. Guide.
PAY CAREFUL ATTENTION TO PART ORIENTATION.
As example the main stick mount has a slot for the wires. Pay attention to “where it’s at” and “how it’s facing” in the pics and as you move along keep it as a reference point.
If you have ANY issue… back up and start again. Some parts can go on both ways but the screws only fit, or are only recessed, one way.
Remember wire length matters! Short and sweet plus a little slack..
When connecting the motors pay attention to the Labels. They should be facing UP!
I have a pic I share that shows the inside wiring of a Rhino start switch (zoom in!)
The Power (+) comes from the plug to the C side of the Emergency cut off switch.
Power (+) goes from the NC side of the Emergency cut off switch to the Main board.
Negative (-) goes from the Plug to the Main board.
Outside that make sure to use lots of pics from the DIY section as alternate angles and I already know… You got this!
Happy building and Happy flying!
Depends on how confident you are with medium scale projects and/or the quality of prints also makes a slightly difference.
If you’re comfortable with a soldering station and have that preset up and you’ve got some random bits of wire or heat shrink you’ll be just fine.
Follow the guide.
Follow the guide.
Follow. The. Guide.
PAY CAREFUL ATTENTION TO PART ORIENTATION.
As example the main stick mount has a slot for the wires. Pay attention to “where it’s at” and “how it’s facing” in the pics and as you move along keep it as a reference point.
If you have ANY issue… back up and start again. Some parts can go on both ways but the screws only fit, or are only recessed, one way.
Remember wire length matters! Short and sweet plus a little slack..
When connecting the motors pay attention to the Labels. They should be facing UP!
I have a pic I share that shows the inside wiring of a Rhino start switch (zoom in!)
The Power (+) comes from the plug to the C side of the Emergency cut off switch.
Power (+) goes from the NC side of the Emergency cut off switch to the Main board.
Negative (-) goes from the Plug to the Main board.
Outside that make sure to use lots of pics from the DIY section as alternate angles and I already know… You got this!
Happy building and Happy flying!
TFor you above sorry it didn’t tag you