Hello, is it normal that the stick is dead in the ov10? No spring, like if I was in the menu and onl
Hello, is it normal that the stick is dead in the ov10? No spring, like if I was in the menu and only read position
WIt probably doesn't have FFB implementation. You'd have to make a sticky spring or use telemFFB spring override
DWouldn't it be possible to add a file in the mod folder or change one just so that it has basic implementation from the game ?
Dlike copying another plane ffb implementation?
WNot sure how open-source the ov-10 is, but FFB stuff requires dealing with FM code in C++
WFound some references in community A-4 mod: https://github.com/heclak/community-a4e-c/blob/a83948d86ea234b9143a97d2cbd2f8f3a099987c/A-4E-C/ExternalFM/FM/Scooter.cpp#L1038
GitHub
The Community Repo for A-4E-C and its Official Submods - heclak/community-a4e-c
R@walmis Is it still possible to add something to my order?
WHi, DM me your order number
T@Hiob Too much or too little per Stick movement? Which Aircraft? F 18 Too little
DOkay that's beyond my competence but thanks
HYou could manually reduce the (raise the lower and reduce the higher values) values of your calibration and save that profile specifically for the Hornet. That would give you more reaction per movement. Also for FBW-Aircraft, you might try to make the spring sticky and
Hrely on the effects by TelemFFB
Tsorry, where do i find the calibration values
HIn the VP config where you made the main settings and the calibration. In the lower part of the screen you see the min and max axis values. You can manually change them, for example bring every value 200-500 points closer to the middle. That way you need less real stick movement for more virtual stick.
TGreat Thank you
HDon’t forget to apply and save and I would suggest that you export your config before experimenting and then save a dedicated version for the Hornet.
ODo people turn off / unplug / estop their stick between uses?
KYes.
Owhich one?
Oor other thing
Odo you tend to estop it or fully unplug or something else
Ojust wondering what people tend to do
KI use a switchable power socket with Rhino joystick and Rhino pedals connected to it.
Ogot it, thanks
BMost consumer electronics stores sell these $25 kits with about three remote sockets and a small remote.
Use them between my hub and power supplies etc and stick the remote to my pit with velcro tape. Or whatever works for you.
Use them between my hub and power supplies etc and stick the remote to my pit with velcro tape. Or whatever works for you.
Owas just about to buy one of these lol
Owell not exactly but the same idea
HI use a switched outlet to turn everything off.
BWhish I had them, but those are just not a thing around here.
If I asked an electrician for it they would likely just look at me funny.
If I asked an electrician for it they would likely just look at me funny.
Oseems like they're all 15A, alright
BAlso note I wouldn't run more than a few hundred Watt through these.
Even if the packaging suggest things like 3000w space heaters...
Even if the packaging suggest things like 3000w space heaters...
Omine will be rhino alone
Ois it bad to just estop it? that seems easiest
Ooh it doesn't stay, right
BI mostly just mention that by habit, you never know with some people. I suspect most here are quite competent around these things though 
BIt doesn't stay pressed, but you will have to twist it to disengage.
So it is a latching button.
So it is a latching button.
WSettings: is there someone who owns a VPforce that does or did fly an F18 and be willing to share their settings?
Owhat should my idle temps be
Othey seem kinda high
FIt depends on your room temperature. Mine is usually around 30c without usage and 40c when in use and then in idle (Y axis). Also if your stick is using a long offset extension the Y motor will be continuously working to keep it centered raising it's temperature.
Swhen i move stick left to right i hear like a spring tension sound and feel through my hand something banged, what could it be?
SUpdate Problem: After update to the latest beta my collective base does not work any more for the HPG helis. Is there the possibility to go back to the latest firmware version? Was totaly OK for me.
Thank´s for any ideas
Thank´s for any ideas
Nits not the firmware. Something changed in MSFS recently where there is a significant delay getting the telemetry data related to the trim release lvars. I've tried correcting for this in TelemFFB. It works but it still isn't quite right.
Make sure you have the collective trim release button bound in TelemFFB. That was not strictly required with previous versions.
Make sure you have the collective trim release button bound in TelemFFB. That was not strictly required with previous versions.
SThe collective trim release button is mapped in TelemFFB. And it totaly does not work in my case. I can not move the collective. Feels like trim release does not work.
NTry a previous build like https://github.com/walmis/VPforce-TelemFFB/releases/tag/20240908 and see if it works as before (just unzip anywhere and run... ignore the update message). You might notice a delay when engaging/releasing collective TR. In fact, I would be very interested if you don't. I still can't determine if the issue I am seeing is only me or something that changed in the sim.
SThank you very much for your efforts. The function is back. It ist the same feeling as befor - with the delay. I finished my collective base only 10 of 15 days ago and I am quite shure I have this delay from the beginning. So I am afraid I cant help with the question if it came up with a change in the sim.
(@walmis Did you do the diode test? It's a bit different as it shows whether the signal reaches the grip electronics. That will confirm whether there's no issues in the connector itself.
Now have done diode check and can confirm that the jst - grip is ok I get a reading of between 599 -660 on GND to each other pin
Im tearing my hair out at this, managed to also break a pi. On my warthog grip during all this diagnostics but my f-18 grip is showing the diode check is good
Where do I go from here
Following this pinout
Now have done diode check and can confirm that the jst - grip is ok I get a reading of between 599 -660 on GND to each other pin
Im tearing my hair out at this, managed to also break a pi. On my warthog grip during all this diagnostics but my f-18 grip is showing the diode check is good
Where do I go from here
Following this pinout
(Do you sell a complete cable and conector
WCan you do a same diode test on the FFB board? (make sure it's unpwered)
(Oh ok later tonight I hope
(@walmis Ok
GND to
CK 512
CS 058
+5v 440
Does CS look correct?
GND to
CK 512
CS 058
+5v 440
Does CS look correct?