where are you all buying custom length cable for connecting rhino to virpil/tm grips? I need a solut
where are you all buying custom length cable for connecting rhino to virpil/tm grips? I need a solution, vs diy if available.
SThis isn't a bad option if you don't want to fool with DIY. The price is cheap enough that you can pretend you aren't also getting an aluminum tube 
https://mfg-sim.com/warthog-extensions/mfg-warthog-extension.html
https://mfg-sim.com/warthog-extensions/mfg-warthog-extension.htmlMFG
Compatible with Warthog, Cougar and Moongos T-50 joystick In aluminum or anodised black color Improve aiming accuracy and ergonomics of your joystick
Twhere is the best place to download sofeware for the rhino
Sif "best" means "only", then the best sites are:
https://vpforcecontrols.com/usb/rhino/ for configurator
https://github.com/walmis/VPforce-TelemFFB for telemffb
https://vpforcecontrols.com/usb/rhino/ for configurator
https://github.com/walmis/VPforce-TelemFFB for telemffb
GitHub
DCS FFB Telemetry Effects (for VPforce FFB). Contribute to walmis/VPforce-TelemFFB development by creating an account on GitHub.
Ti did an update and now it say wrong version what should i do
Supdate of what? screenshot
T
T
STi did not sure why this is happening
Syour configurator screenshot shows 1.0.16. run the 1.0.17 version
RI found several that are 12cm or less. I need a length of 30cm, lol
Tyes
TTried several times to update not working
CHey guys. I have a early rhino and im starting to get a bit of play only in the pitch axis. Its about 1/8inch only in one axis about the neutral position. Is there any way i can tighten this back up?
CC@walmis
CIt looks like your printed mount for the aluminum is broken. There is a split which opens when you press the stick forward. Look closely to the corner nearest to the camera and you will see it.
CI think thats just a reflection of the light. The piece in person is solid as a rock
FTry grabbing the printed part and see if the play is in the metal shaft. If so try tightening the 4 screws that keep it in place and see if that helps. Also the screws that keep the big pulley in place may be loose.
![Prometheus [Prom]](https://cdn.discordapp.com/avatars/777496628579401739/90d1e9e0a05c7bafd59a74ba942bd870.webp?size=40)
Pusually blow, you want positive pressure in the case…much as with PC cooling design….opinions can vary however
CThe movement is between the printed shaft and the top pitch gimbal.
CWhen you move it fwd and back the pitch wheel doesnt move at all.
EHello ! I am new on the project and i am doing my research to make a rhino on my own, but i can't really find anyone talking about making the base with 86BLF04 motors instead of the 57BLF03.
Is there any reason why ?
Is there any reason why ?
FI'd try tightening the screws in the middle of the big pulley. I think there's 5 or 6 of them and see if that makes a difference
FThe 86 motors would require a stronger gimbal and bigger housing. They have more torque and handle overheating better but the build will be significantly more expensive.
EOkay ! I've seen some things like monster rhino and stuff, but do you know if anyone shared some files to make a base with the 86 ? or i'll have to modify it
FYes the files are available for the housing and a couple of gimbal options. Hope someone can link them to you. I just had my parts made by @SR-FWinger[73]_David since I didn't want to go through the hassle of it 
.
.FAlso if tightening the screws that connect the pulley to the ball bearings doesn't fix it you will have to take the bottom wall out and maybe even remove the motors to see if you can tighten the screws that put the gimbal together.
EOkay thanks ! I will search for it then, thanks for your help :)
FIt you decide to do it yourself make sure the front 80mm fan is 5v and not 12V or it won't be able to cool those big motors well. Big difference in cooling them.
E5v instead of 12v ? Wouldn't the 5v be less powerful ?
FThe board provides 12v so the 5v would spin way faster. Just have a spare in case it dies faster lol. I have no issues at all.
FIn the configuration it's set to only send 70% max so it works great.
EOoooh, that's useful to know, thanks for telling it to me !
CSolved. I had to remove the top plate and really get at the main screws that run through the main roll bearing
CYou cant get to them unless you remove the top plate and get that extra angle out of the stick.
![SR-F_Winger_[73]_David](https://cdn.discordapp.com/avatars/98037306870472704/f924b51d2e4486c1eb873c2f4fb7f6a3.webp?size=40)
SMy Reproduction IS based on the original Project by@TheAmazinGreat
KGitHub
FFB Joystick designed around VPForceControl kits forked from Gadroc's Design, modified for 86 series motors - TheAmazinGreat/86-Motor-VPF-FFB-Base
SThanks Kaltokri!
SHey, bumping this after holiday/weekend. Anyone have any ideas? https://discordapp.com/channels/965234441511383080/968208779084701716/1324801644399165590 @walmis maybe this is more of a you question since at this point it looks like the problem might be in the Rhino itself and mine was a bit of a one-off?
WHey, the Rhino only supplies 5V to the grip connector other wires are pass-through. A few things to check:
1. Is your Grip set to Disabled or Loopback?
2. Is the USB voltage more than ~4.8V?
IIRC last time there was the issue with a bad USB voltage
1. Is your Grip set to Disabled or Loopback?
2. Is the USB voltage more than ~4.8V?
IIRC last time there was the issue with a bad USB voltage
SYes, this was awhile ago and it was an issue with an unpowered USB hub. Nothing has changed in terms of the connectivity chain, so it's still hooked up with a powered USB hub that previously worked. The grip is set to disabled, which iirc was the only option that worked with the passthrough you put in.
for the terminals on the GX connector, this is the correct order - 1. Ground 2. Data 3. Clock 4. Latch? I did make a new cable, I could have gotten something mixed up there, but the connections are all solid. I wasn't sure if it was at the point I should start testing through the device via multimeter like you had me do previouly or if there was another type of test I could do that is more helpful.
for the terminals on the GX connector, this is the correct order - 1. Ground 2. Data 3. Clock 4. Latch? I did make a new cable, I could have gotten something mixed up there, but the connections are all solid. I wasn't sure if it was at the point I should start testing through the device via multimeter like you had me do previouly or if there was another type of test I could do that is more helpful.
WYeah probably something is mixed up, if all buttons are solid it most likely could be Data is swapped with GND
LGuys, apologies for the NOOB question. I am finally setting up my Rhino FFB for first tries with IL2. Whilst configuring the keys I noticed that my axis are being recognised as buttons. Do you know of which way to fix this/what setting this may be?
WWhich axis?
SCan you verify that terminal numbers I posted above is correct from the Rhino side (1. Ground 2. Data 3. Clock 4. Latch)?
Lthanks - both - please take into account I'm a complete NOOB as to the Rhino, ie have connected it via USB, updated firwmare, opened the configuration software to calibrate axis but literally nothing else so I'm probably missing some basic step (for which apologies)
SI suppose I could just test it through the device, but where I have it mounted now it's not super easy to get into the back of it without undoing a lot of fasteners lol. I hope it's just a switched wire.
L(may be something IL2 related - don't spend too much time on this, will just restart / mess around a bit and then come back here if I don't solve this - thought this may be an obvious setting/issue so wanted to ask)
WYou'll need to provide a little bit more context, as it's hard to understand what's actually wrong here. X and Y axis have no axis-to-button functionality, so it may be something not done correctly in IL2 ( I don't have much IL2 experience myself, someone might be more helpful)
