原yeah not a deal breaker but since they went this far to make a replica I'd hope they take this small step forward and make it even more perfect. It's just an oversight from they. That angle is definitely there in the real one for apparent ergonomics reason..
Kcan u post the link / file?
BI had an Alpha, and now have a Prime. To me it has a lot more heft than the original, so I'm surprised to see such a small delta between their weights.
EDIT: There has been some discussion about the various brands of grips. Right now I have an Alpha Prime and the original TMW grip, and in the past I've had the TM F/A-18 and Alpha ones. I upgraded from the Alpha to the Alpha Prime primarily because they brag about the Prime having better switches. I can't really detect a difference, and I am somewhat disappointed in it. TM has the best switches I've used -- I almost never mistakenly push "up" on a hat when I want to push "left" -- this happens a lot with the trim hat I've assigned on the Prime. I have a real grip from some 1960s US fighter, and its switchlogy feels very similar to the TM grips'.
I also upgraded from the Virpil CM2 to the CM3 stick base, because of the clutches in the CM3. I'm not sure either upgrade was worth it (primarily b/c the clutches don't play well with the HPG H145 that I fly almost exclusively in MSFS), but then it "only" cost me about $150 to upgrade the Alpha grip and CM2 to the newer models (after selling my old setup). The Prime grip does light up real purty
, but I'm considering going back to my TMW grip.
EDIT: There has been some discussion about the various brands of grips. Right now I have an Alpha Prime and the original TMW grip, and in the past I've had the TM F/A-18 and Alpha ones. I upgraded from the Alpha to the Alpha Prime primarily because they brag about the Prime having better switches. I can't really detect a difference, and I am somewhat disappointed in it. TM has the best switches I've used -- I almost never mistakenly push "up" on a hat when I want to push "left" -- this happens a lot with the trim hat I've assigned on the Prime. I have a real grip from some 1960s US fighter, and its switchlogy feels very similar to the TM grips'.
I also upgraded from the Virpil CM2 to the CM3 stick base, because of the clutches in the CM3. I'm not sure either upgrade was worth it (primarily b/c the clutches don't play well with the HPG H145 that I fly almost exclusively in MSFS), but then it "only" cost me about $150 to upgrade the Alpha grip and CM2 to the newer models (after selling my old setup). The Prime grip does light up real purty
, but I'm considering going back to my TMW grip.
ASimucube 2 Pro is also like 11 kg (24 pounds), the box when it arrived weighed like 18kg (40 pounds) 
Pthis is fixed in a coming VPForce update
SAnd I think that one is bigger than the vrs
SOk good to know. Thanks.
ANot really, the motor itself is 131x131x191 and with the shaft + QR 131x131x270
The VRS is smal mige w/o shaft 131x131x213 and with shaft but no QR is 131x131x270
So they are basically the same size, only difference being, simucube uses the back of the motor to house the electronics and their own encoder, while the VRS still uses the industrial grade encoder and encoder enclosure and uses external connection.
The VRS is smal mige w/o shaft 131x131x213 and with shaft but no QR is 131x131x270
So they are basically the same size, only difference being, simucube uses the back of the motor to house the electronics and their own encoder, while the VRS still uses the industrial grade encoder and encoder enclosure and uses external connection.
WHey guys, I will be out of action for a couple of days, got a nasty case of flu 
FTake care and get well soon @walmis
SYou know your stuff, what you think about those new simucube pedals?
AThey are a really interesting concept, for sure out of my price range (I currently have SC2 Pro and BJ Steel GT Pro pedals, was considering the full VRS combo though), but from a technical standpoint a really nice advancement in the sim gear. But I would wait for the DIY versions to come out. Because the pedal is basically a linear actuator with a leverage and an S-type LC element that measures the forces in both directions (Pressure (+) and extension (-)). And the rest of the effects (brakes overheating --> softer pedal feel etc) is then all gathered from the telemetry data, even ABS information from telemetry is only ON or OFF, so you have to set your own ABS frequency in the software. And based on the development I see in this Discord channel (for example Propeller3D writing his own telemetry based FFB solution for the flight sim gear) I am quite confident that in a year or so, there will be DIY projects and clones of the Simucube pedals. And based on the price of the RS MEGA + motion kit, I would expect the price of the full kit (3 pedals) to be about half the price of the Simucube pedals.
JAt a glance from a newcomer's perspective the best thing to do for starting off is get some heusinkveld sprint pedals and a sim3d rumble kit
JI wish more racing sim tech advancements trickled down and translated into flight sim hardware products
Jfor example why isn't there a ffb yoke from thrustmaster or logitech
AYes, that is for sure the best price-performance option especially in the long run. I got the BJs which are kinda clones of the HE Sprints from Spain (for about 300€ less) and quite a few friends from the Slovene sim racing Discord community had them, so I had a tried and trusted reviews, that they are a safe choice, but they are not as refined out of the box as the Sprints (not all edges are completely sanded down to a dull edge). And I must say, they are a huge improvement over the Fanatec V3s I had before. And the sim3D kit is also relatively easy to make at home, if you have the 3D printer, so that will probably be my next upgrade to the rig. But have to find strong enough motors, since the ones on the V3s were too weak to be of any use (at least to me).
JYeah for people that can make their own stuff, the designs available to take inspiration from are quite useful
AOn MSFF2 the stick definitely (!) flops forward with engine off in all positions
A
AI have to accept that the implementation feels quite natural compared to glider aerobatics/loops, not sure what C172 does at the top of the loop with yoke forces and don't want to know ;))
SMy msffb2 flops back forwards when engine is off
SAnd even left and right
Kthanks mate
MWhoa, another sailplane acro pilot? My other car is a SZD-59 
I've looped in many types and done wingovers in many more but the 59 is rated for all but tailslides (rudder the size of a barn door). Even with its 15m tips it's quite spritely compared to the SZD48 it's derived from, mostly owing to the enlarged ailerons, which have the highest aerodynamic load up of any (pointy) glider I've flown but it has the roll rate to show for it. In 13m mode it's only outperformed by Swift or Fox, both of which are fantastic acro ships but poor xc gliders but with 15m tips the 59 has the same polar and characteristics of the 48, a worthy tradeoff imo
I've looped in many types and done wingovers in many more but the 59 is rated for all but tailslides (rudder the size of a barn door). Even with its 15m tips it's quite spritely compared to the SZD48 it's derived from, mostly owing to the enlarged ailerons, which have the highest aerodynamic load up of any (pointy) glider I've flown but it has the roll rate to show for it. In 13m mode it's only outperformed by Swift or Fox, both of which are fantastic acro ships but poor xc gliders but with 15m tips the 59 has the same polar and characteristics of the 48, a worthy tradeoff imo
SI have the VRS pedals. They are great. I upgraded from t3pa so I don’t really have much to compare to though
SUmmmmm what?
MDid I mistake you as a glider pilot? I thought you were referencing you know what the stick feels like at the top of a loop in one. I was talking about glider types and characteristics on that premise..
SYea you did but I’m actually really interested in gliders though which is funny. I know nothing about them though
MI can see how my message would be gibberish then :p
SZD-59 Acro is a Polish sailplane which is an aerobatic capable variant of another standard class (15m wing, no flaps) sailplane made for cross-country (xc) soaring called the SZD-48. Shares the same fuse/cockpit/wings but a different tail and has enlarged ailerons and the wingtips removable so can be flown as 15m (standard class) with good efficiency (40:1 glide ratio, +5.5/-3.5g's, 155kt VNE, looping and limited acro ok) or 13m for full acro flying (28:1 glide ratio +7/-5 g's, 177kt VNE, full acro aside from tailslide maneuvers because it will break the giant rudder) https://szdallstar.com/en/products/szd-59-1-acro/
SZD-59 Acro is a Polish sailplane which is an aerobatic capable variant of another standard class (15m wing, no flaps) sailplane made for cross-country (xc) soaring called the SZD-48. Shares the same fuse/cockpit/wings but a different tail and has enlarged ailerons and the wingtips removable so can be flown as 15m (standard class) with good efficiency (40:1 glide ratio, +5.5/-3.5g's, 155kt VNE, looping and limited acro ok) or 13m for full acro flying (28:1 glide ratio +7/-5 g's, 177kt VNE, full acro aside from tailslide maneuvers because it will break the giant rudder) https://szdallstar.com/en/products/szd-59-1-acro/
SZD
ACRO – The versatile three-in-one single-seater-glider – 3 wing spans for gliding: • aerobatics • cross-country • competition. Find out more »»»
MApparently there are also 16.5m tips for it as well, stretching its glide ratio higher than 40:1
SYea I would love to go up in one. Maybe even get one. It seems so peaceful from the videos I’ve watched
MGliding/soaring rules and useful skills to have for all pilots since they're all gliders when the motor dies but yes super fun and can be very peaceful as well, though it's not without its own set of worries :p
RFeel better, my wife was out for over 2 weeks with it. Influenza is back with a vengence.
BI'm late to this discussion. Is this something that MT would make, or are you going to do it? It needs to be 4mm thick in my opinion... I just measured the MT-manufactured plate for my Virpil CM3 base and it appears to be 5mm. Even better.
Kthanks mate
APuchacz, Jantar Std 2, ASK21, Blanik, DG300 and DG505 are the planes I flew. Learnt all of my flying on Polish gliders and if anyone has Sebastian Kawa in their friendship circle - please let me know if he ever does any training/mentoring/etc.
原these two are even reluctant to build quality "traditional" flight sim gears lol they are more than happy to just make their same old garbage plastic toys for another couple of decades while still can rob moneys out of noobs easily...
Sadly flight sim is even more nichey than racing sim...and lots of ppl have experienced driving themselves so garbage zerging tactic doesn't work that well. But for flight sim, most ppl can't even tell wht is wrong with those toys bcz they have never flown themselves...
And since nobody cares, dev of the platform doesn't care about implementing (advanced) FFB support much, either...or it's a egg and chicken problem...but anyway we end up with this death spiral of FFB in flight sim lol
Sadly flight sim is even more nichey than racing sim...and lots of ppl have experienced driving themselves so garbage zerging tactic doesn't work that well. But for flight sim, most ppl can't even tell wht is wrong with those toys bcz they have never flown themselves...
And since nobody cares, dev of the platform doesn't care about implementing (advanced) FFB support much, either...or it's a egg and chicken problem...but anyway we end up with this death spiral of FFB in flight sim lol
SAnd thats why we need to make our own flight sim gear
NIs there a storefront to buy the Rhino?
RHey Naabin, welcome. Check out the #
faq for ordering and other info.
faq for ordering and other info.S
STaking this apart for thr motor
SIm gona use it for a diy racing wheel or joystick hehe
S
SBig boi
S
S3.9 ft/lb torque
SSo the time has finally come to sort out my flight sim gear
SI'm ordering the Virpil throttle, Virpil WarBRD base and T50 stick
