You need a separate controller for the buttons on the joystick though don't you?
You need a separate controller for the buttons on the joystick though don't you?
WYeah, a shift register board. I have those in stock too 
MWalmis has managed to turn a rather complicated affair into astonishing simplicity with hardware centered on practical choices. Nothing short of amazing.. making gimbals are the easy/fun part.
AI did some experimenting and wrote sort of an introductionish thing to the manual
AI noticed that currently everything is under 1) Introduction
AI suggest moving all the major sections away from there and make them their own thing
AAlso if it's up to me I'd keep both the intro and the "getting started" -thing very simple and to the point, basically a short intro + spec sheet in the introduction and whatever you need to do to get the thing connected and powered up and the software running in the getting started part
DI setup endstops for F18c and it functions pretty well, tho I might setup some dampening at the ends also to reduce oscillation / bounce from endstops. Anyone have experience with setting them both up? Also whats the best way to calibrate with end stops
VI set my end stops at 50% and I get pretty bad oscillation. I always have to remember to hit the estop button when I leave the pit because it's possible for the stick, if it gets bumped slightly, to start an uncontrolled self destruct sequence
VTried messing with the dampening setting but couldn't tell if it was helping or if it was just placebo
VIt certainly did not reduce them to the point where I felt safe leaving the pit with it on!
VI thought it was weird that the oscillating occurred even with endstop power set to 0. I thought it was the endstop power pushing the stick back to center that was the cause of the feedback loop but I guess not
AIf nobody objects I will soonish mangle the manual into horrible shape and fill it with weird stuffs
Asilence is complicity
DI have endstop for X at 50% with 100% force and Y (+) at 50% with 100% force and Y (-) at 100% with 100% force
DI always turn on the RHINO when I am seated and ready to play and turn it off when I am finished
SDoes this mean you can’t have a gear reduction resulting in a greater than 360 degree rotation of the motor? Is there any way around this?
SDoing some quick math, this probabaly wont be an issue. A 10x gear reduction would still give me 36 degrees of play which is perfectly fine
AI'm not an expert but afaik doing several rotations is not a showstopper, you just need some way of telling which rotation you're on at any given time
Si believe you can go past 360 without issue, its just that you have to be in the center when you power it up. the encoder goes from 0 to 4096, but will happily read values like -1000 to 5000 if you go beyond. If you power it up with the stick at -1000, it will think its at 3096.
Bthe way non-direct drive wheels solve this is they do a "motion range" spin on power up to recenter itself. Doing this with a stick sounds like playing wackfuck every time you power it up
PDon't know if it's even possible & I'm sure if it is it'd be a lot of extra work, but what about a clutch system so the motors could do the start up calibration without moving the stick?
Bseems more simple to have it do the motion range thing, but at a slow pace
RAnother alternative is to do like a 3d Printer and have it home to a set of end stops. Presumably in a direction away from your crotch.
SIs their spec sheet somewhere for the "joystick" ?
Amaybe soon
KHey @walmis I was wondering about third party grips. Do you think it would be possible to add grips like Komodo EC145 or OE-XAM grips to this base?
Or would it require additional soldering perhaps?
I can't seem to find any helicopter grips that would fit the Rhino
Or would it require additional soldering perhaps?
I can't seem to find any helicopter grips that would fit the Rhino
WYeah an adapter would be needed. Either using a shift register to wire the buttons or using a microcontroller to translate the signals.
RSpeaking of grips, how does the rhino handle the thrust master warthog versus the virpil alpha their weight is substantially different
WYouTubeMike Richardson
I really like the fact that I can get a much more accurate feel of cable, push-rod or hydraulic control systems, on top of that rotary, no having to swap cam's just one of the things that make the Rhino so good. On this profile I have around 3kg damping force dialed in.
For more info on the FFB Rhino join the discord group
Web: https://vpforc...
For more info on the FFB Rhino join the discord group
Web: https://vpforc...
KAmazing I like that leather protector. I guess that's something homemade?
KThis is for advanced soldering people?
KIt seems very advanced
KMy dream is to be able to transform my Komodo EC145 grip in to Rhino compatible
LI got mine from amazon for cheap
L@keem85 https://amzn.eu/d/1qWVW2G
AERZETIX: Schaltsack schaltmanschette kunstleder dunkelgrau
KAnd you 3dprinted a cover to screw it on to?
LYes
Lhere it is
Korper4.stl84.07KB
L
KNice! Would love to know how to make custom grips for the Rhino though. A gamechanger if possible without the need for soldering skills etc.
Is there a guide for doing custom grips for the Rhino?
Is there a guide for doing custom grips for the Rhino?
AIt would be suprising to me if you could make a custom grip completely without soldering
ABut maybe there are suitable electronics available that don't requier too much tinkering
KWould be nice to have a wiring scheme for the shift register.
LHey I am here only for a game of whack-f*ck 
RSearch debolestis shift register.
R@Kalixto Hate to break it to you, but you will have to learn a basic and valuable skill soldering. Good news is it’s quite easy and not expensive.
Dreddit
3 votes and 14 comments so far on Reddit
DSadly, the project didnt get enough community interest and the developer is focusing on making it only for himself, the issue was the price for something like this was gonna be €202, which is a bit much for what it is
DKeep in mind when developing and building a joystick
R3D print or 3D print mold to resin is much cheaper. To say nothing of re tasking injection moulded commercial plastic housings. Like I did with my Thrustmaster X-Fighter B8 grip or the Suncom F-15/hornet stick I’ll eventually get around to finishing now that I have a trigger solution.
Most actual sticks are slush cast resin, not metal. You can slush cast resin in a lot of mold materials.
Most actual sticks are slush cast resin, not metal. You can slush cast resin in a lot of mold materials.