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Z-Tilt, 12v Controller Fan, and More
I am trying to get my RRVC3 500 up and running, but keep running into issues and I'm tired of searching online.
FFirstly, the fan.
FThis is an old 12v fan I had. Not sure if it works properly.
I want to use it for the board fan, but I don't want to risk booting the thing up and shorting something out. I have it hooked up a similar way to my 4028 parts cooler fan.
I want to use it for the board fan, but I don't want to risk booting the thing up and shorting something out. I have it hooked up a similar way to my 4028 parts cooler fan.
FI have not turned it on yet. I figured I'd better ask beforehand, lest I damage something important.
Lmake sure you have the voltage jumper in the correct setting for the 12v fan, it's the middle one
FI did that. Should I go ahead and try turning it on?
Lthat should be fine then yeah
FOkay. That seems to be working. Can't quite hook it up yet, but good to know.
BUnless you need to control the rpm, why not just use the red and black and wire it as a normal fan?
FSecondly is the 4028 fan. The dashboard control is in reverse. 100% is off, 0% is full blast. I'm assuming the now running control fan is the same way, because it says 0% on the dashboard while running at full speed.
FBecause I'm trying to learn how all this works and make use out of everything here.
F
FWell, the controller fan either doesn't work the same as the parts cooler, or the part on the fan got burned up.
Or the controller fan is the fan that's in the RP housing.
Or the controller fan is the fan that's in the RP housing.
BThen you need to invert the logic by either adding or removing
!4028 server fans are becoming a popular option for part cooling because of their light weight and great pressure and flow rates. In this guide we'll go over how to connect one and use it for part cooling. 4-pin fans usually aren't used in 3d printers, and many boards only provide 2-pin ports, but fear not! There's always a way.
FWhere in printer.cfg are the fan pins? I've looked all over in it and it's not there.
BThat example shows it with a
!!Yes. Where?
BThey aren't there on purpose. Rat-OS defines that elsewhere. You just need to supply the overrides if any
BIn the section labeled
put
USER OVERRIDESput
FI did that and it worked. Thank you.
FOkay, so what about the 25khz vs 100hz? How do I know which is best?
Will it sound different? Will I get an error on the console?
Will it sound different? Will I get an error on the console?
Lif it works, it works, if not, you can try and change that
FWell, it worked. Didn't sound any different, so I'm assuming it's doing the right thing.
FOkay, now for the Z-Tilt.
It homed out, I ran Z-Tilt, already pretty level. Left z arm went down. It cycled through again, left arm went down even further. Got an error saying, "Retries aborting: Probed points range is increasing."
It homed out, I ran Z-Tilt, already pretty level. Left z arm went down. It cycled through again, left arm went down even further. Got an error saying, "Retries aborting: Probed points range is increasing."
FZ-axis is running in the right direction, so that's not it.
FActually, before I get that answered, I need to know how to open and run RatOS on other devices.
FI tried going through the whole hotspot thing and nothing would work.
BYou probably have the motors backwards. Z0 should be front left, Z1 back center, Z2 is front right. Use klipper stepper buzz command to check them
FThat was it! I don't know why I didn't think of that, but thank you!
FI'm going through the rest of the setup. Just ran the tension test.
FNot sure what I need to do here, if anything.
BYou are trying to get them to match so the belt tension is equal
FOkay. So it looks like the lower belt needs to be tighter.
FRan the bed mesh.
It's pretty bad.
It's pretty bad.
FThis is one of those things where if the machine itself is built a little uneven, the bed will be uneven, isn't it?
BWhat is the variance? It can look bad but if the variance is low it doesn't matter
FMy most recent go, 0.618, which from what I've seen is pretty terrible.
BBWatch that video it will help you fix the mesh
FThank you for that. It looks like I'm going to have to partially reassemble this thing. Loosen up the framework and reseat it all.
Hif this fan has a onboard pwm controller then this is a not so good idea
FI think I might have mistakenly burned up the PWM awhile back.
F
FI put on 2 of those straps, loosened up the framework, gave the thing a shake, and it all lined up perfectly. Everything is now straight and square.
F
FWell, it looks like straightening the framework didn't do much at all. And that's with the bed heated up to 60°C.
Lso a pro tip ( that i can't beleive i didn't think of myself... )
is to rotate the bed 90 degrees and probe again, if the taco mesh rotates with it, you can assume it's the bed, if it doesn't then it's more likely a frame problem
is to rotate the bed 90 degrees and probe again, if the taco mesh rotates with it, you can assume it's the bed, if it doesn't then it's more likely a frame problem
Lkeep in mind, if you have the RR plate, and can't be bothered to drill new mounting holes for it like me, putting it on the holders with the balls off to the side works, but you will move the Z arms to the limit, and very likely crash them into the holders for the rods on the top unless you make sure they are at the very top...
FOkay. Could have anything to do with the position of the sensor?
FAlso, how do I make it sample more than a 7x7 grid?
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