it shows 6 axes in SPAD.. rx ry rz slider etc but theres no physical interface for them other than t
it shows 6 axes in SPAD.. rx ry rz slider etc but theres no physical interface for them other than the 2 pot inputs
Poh bugger, I was imagining having the rudder pedals plug into the base for their ffb & the old usb to pc for toe brakes
P& how do they run on the PC, just like any other kit or the Rhino? just using the VPforce software?
Si only got the kits, not the full rhino base. the joystick is 1 card+2 motors the pedal is 1 card+1motor. they use the vpforce software.
Pok this just gets better & better, dam it, I'm not going to stop thinking of this now 
PI must have ffb pedals, I must
Sand im making this for when i upgrade to tpr's
PYeah I'm not sure when I upgrade if I'll want the TPR, Virpil or the MFG?
Sthe cable-pull design would probably work on all of em, its just bracketry that would change
Pjust need a way to make my honeycomb yoke ffb too
N@walmis Question on the WinWing adapter - can it be used with other TM/Virpil-style bases to allow use of a WinWing grip? Or does it specifically need to be running your firmware to make sense of it? (Apologies if this has been asked before, I searched briefly but didn't find anything)
WIt should work, but limited to 24-32 buttons and no analog axis support
NGood enough for me, thanks!
Ji agree 100% if there was a way to replace the crosswind damper with rhino ffb as a proper kit that would be amazing
Jcrosswind is what i'll be buying as you said it just makes the most sense for the value
KI got my motors hooked up today just to test out. Such an amazingly simple process. I think I'm probably capable of building most of this on my own but @walmis has done such an excellent job from motor tuning, PCB design, and now I can see that the software side is equally as impressive. There is ~ZERO~ reason to try to redo anything he has done, it's just really well executed.
KOn to build a super simple gimbal just to have something to jerk around while I build the high end system. The laser cutter and 3D printers are going to get well used over the next week.
KI don't see an "off topic" but if you are looking for a laser that can cut an enclosure for your DIY Rhino, this on kickstarter is a good deal for the 20W version: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/elegooofficial/elegoo-phecda-laser-engraver-and-cutter?ref=user_menu . Of course kickstarters can always fail, but Elegoo is established. I'll be using the Creality Falcon 10W until the above arrives and while slow it should still be able to cut ply thick enough for a decent base.
Kickstarterelegoo official
Quality Products for Less, Creating Savings for Allο½1600 cmΒ² Working Areaο½Smoke Filteringο½Easy-to-useο½
TInteresting product! I use a lot my 3D printer and my cutter (Silhouette Cameo) and I don't see yet (!) a use for such product but who knows in the future ? LOL
BHello all, small question; i like to put myself on the waiting list for one but i have a question regarding IL2; does it work OK with IL2 great battle (out of the box) or does it need some 'thinkering' ?
PHey m8 the Rhino works awesome with IL2 out of the box! 
PYou get ground texture on taxi/take-off/landing. buffeting with gear down, flaps & AoA etc. the stick moves with trim, weapon effects like gun/cannon shake
Palso it gives a really good amount of resistance with the 9nm torque, with a light grip like the vkb Kg12 & a 200mm extension I get a really nice feeling stick, it's not like I'm using two hands & bending the extension when trying to pull out of a dive but still more than I got with my VKB gunfighter 3 
but still more than I got with my VKB gunfighter 3 Palso you can customize the stick feel per aircraft if you wish by making multiple config profiles in the VPforce software & you can swap between them on the go, this lets you change the stick feel per aircraft if you wish to, making it feel lighter or heavier, even change the length of throw for the +/- of the X & Y axis in the software (the Rhino has a huge length of throw, I think like ~40Β°)
Bthanks for the explanation! much appreciated
Busing bass shakers & VR atm, which is awesome but always looking for more immersion
V:package: 
RHINO #0084 Has Shipped!
RHINO #0084 Has Shipped!PYeah I'm aiming for a jetseat or NLR HF8 & bass shakers, would love a seat mover eventually or even an actual motion rig, but those are big asks. A decent 'cockpit' set up to mount everything to, a decent chair, Rhino, Jetseat & Bass Shakers will add a lot of immersion
Blook at Simukit.com, if you're in the EU you can get a seat mover for 590β¬
Bits a kit, but very doable with everything included (Arduino, motors, cables,...)
Bcan handle 120kg so fixing a joystick and throttle should be doable
Pooooh that sounds doable! not right now, got a few other things I wana do first, ffb rudder & yoke, plus I need to do a couple PC upgrades too
Blife is about choices 
JJust started looking into these for the workbench. Seems most pit builders that are posting have decided 40w is what is needed for panel building to cut acrylic. Very interested in hearing other experiences with this.
KFor cutting acrylic a 40W Co2 laser is superior since it can cut clear acrylic and a diode laser like this can only cut colored acrylic. I have a Co2 laser as well, but it's upkeep and tuning is significantly more cumbersome so I vastly prefer to use the diode laser where possible. For cutting thin plywood, engraving / cutting dark acrylic, cutting templates the diode is just so much better. Co2 needs water cooling, mirror alignment on an invisible beam, and getting the focus perfect is a chore.
YThat does look interesting.
I would want one I could cut aluminum/steel with though.
Having spent almost zero time looking into it, is there even an option?
I would want one I could cut aluminum/steel with though.
Having spent almost zero time looking into it, is there even an option?
KTo actually cut metal, you'd need a high power fiber laser. I have a low power fiber laser that can mark aluminum and steel (and any metal) but cutting is a whole 'nother ball game. I can make the little serial number aluminum badges like you see on the side of the Rhino, but cutting that out of a sheet of aluminum would take a multi-ten-thousand dollar machine. Jobs like that are better suited for plasma cutters or waterjets. For me, using services like send-cut-send or bigbluesaw are the best bet when large metal cuts are required. I have a large CNC machine, and use it when doing complex jobs, but for sheet aluminum / steel (like the frame of a joystick) using the online services is just so easy.
A@walmis Hi Walmis, is it by any chance possible to purchase the two toothed wheels and the belt from you, or at least know where to obtain the belt? I'd like to power pedals with your motor kit and (if possible) also a steering wheel. I also saw a mention about a printable physical stop/limiter of the throw. Where can I find that, or at least a photo of the design?
ADisregard the second question. I found the limiter. Thank you for that option. Will help a lot
KThe belts are HD5 and available everywhere. Similarly you can find HD5 pulleys from eBay and AliExpress for very little cost. The size is not critical as itβs configurable.
AThanks, will have a look
MThe belts are HTD 5m, 9mm width
KYes, I forgot the T, thanks for the correction.
V:package: RHINO #0085 Has Shipped!
RHINO #0085 Has Shipped!
WAfter some advice. I currently have a kit using the largest motors. Using a 5.7:1 ratio I need about 7kg of pull for full deflection at the handle ~400mm from pivot point.
WI'd actually like a little more, and was considering adding a 3:1 gearbox. I'd need to change the small pulley to around 20T or even larger. Which would give me a ~12:1 ratio.
WI use my stick for both fixed wing and helis though, and I would like the stick to fall under it's own weight for helis. eg very little resistance. Guess my question is, how much gearing is too much ?
WShould I use a larger gear reduction and smaller pulley?
WOr should I scrap the whole idea!?
Jwhen in doubt throw more motors at the problem
Jtoo much gearing? not enough motors 
